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Post by anglais on Jan 17, 2012 17:41:56 GMT
I havent tested the Barnett clutch allot, but intiall test is good allot more feel and you cant reverse it. One issue might be it is fairly stiff so there is potential for the cable to snap but it might ease off. I fitted the plates too, meant to be more hard wearing and as you pointed out removing the engine is a pain in the bum so did not want to do the job again.
cant remember how much i paid but just got them from ebay less than £300 ,
I would upgrade your clutch stopper though and not just leave the bolt.
When is the MSVA test booked for then?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2012 21:35:01 GMT
I think when I need a new clutch if I am having to drop the engine, I shall then replace with a barnett setup. I think my stop bolt is fine to be honest, maybe I am wrong, but its directly behind my clutch pedal centre, I don't have any play side to side with my pedal so I can't see any major issues. Its tapped into a rivnut and is adjustable, well I guess I will see :-)
I am taking it down to RTR on the 6th Feb, I imagine maybe a week or so in the RTR workshop with some checks to do, then hopefully at this time of year it should be through fairly quickly, gives me sometime to plate up my TR1KE transporter trailer ahead of collection maybe.... I made a substantial mounting bracket for my Clutch Stop so hopefully it's ok.... Just going to check it this weekend and see where the biting point is
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Post by erik on Feb 6, 2012 16:57:36 GMT
Bit more progress, ended up buying a new fuel pump from ebay! one that venon pointed out! owe you another one for that. you should be able to see the pump laid out ready to be bolted to the bulk head, both tanks in and all the pipe work for the radiator attached swirl tank, im confused , do i attach the top pipes from the petrol tanks to the two side outlets to the swril pots? then make breather holes??? hope that make sense, any help gratefully recived Have done a bit more on the dash, got the speedo attached, and bought a few more bits, will hopefully get a day on it over easter. Hi Anglais, I like your backmounted swirltake. Can you give us a link where to get one of these? i have been strugling to locate one like this. Thanks in advance, Erik
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Post by edwinwl on Feb 6, 2012 17:58:50 GMT
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Post by erik on Feb 6, 2012 19:48:04 GMT
Thanx Edwin! I must have overlooked that option. Would it be possible to use the base outlet option on this location too? Only to clean up the plumbing Finally my shoppinglist is growing a bit LOL!! greets! Erik
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Post by edwinwl on Feb 6, 2012 21:02:27 GMT
My plan is to keep the bulkhead free and clean.
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Post by anglais on Feb 12, 2012 17:00:21 GMT
well you go away for a bit and lots of new posts to read with some good builds coming up too, one even pretty close to me as well which i will be reading with interest so lots of small things done best get some photos up Firstly i have put my new welding skills to use. I wanted some solid fixing points for my sliding seat bracket. sliding bracket with seat fixing points seat all fixed in and working great
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Post by anglais on Feb 12, 2012 17:14:20 GMT
The much talked about clutch stop, again with my new welding skills, seems to work well as the cluch pedal hits it dead on giving it lots of strength no chance of bending again. Finally i have sorted the wiring on the cooling fan with the temperature sensor working on the dash now, also put a 10 pin connector on the wiring for the dash, so i can actually take the dash of and on which is a massive improvment. Havnt been able to test if the cooling fan kicks in at temp becasue the outside temp is so cold the engine hasnt been able to get hot enougth All back together after digging it out of the garage! just need the snow to melt for a few test drives to fully check all the mods over the last couple of mounths, fingers croseed no more problems! Have
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Post by anglais on Feb 12, 2012 17:16:25 GMT
wrong photo, this is my clutch stop
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Post by anglais on Feb 15, 2012 10:52:32 GMT
Im still having problems with my cooling! im not sure how long any of you have run your engine for but before my cooling fan kicks in at about 200f , (takes about 20 mins just sitting there) my pressure cap realises sending coolant everywhere. I bought a new radiator pressure cap but no joy.
i have read up on this a people putting bike engine into cars have similar problems.
has anyone else had this???
i have three solutions
One buy a higher rated pressure cap (anyone know where to get one)
two , create a filling header enclosed tank next to the thermostat which is the highest place and where they are designed to be.
Third which is possible the easiest create a separate switch to turn the fan on keeping the system below 200f hopefully (would this work) im not sure if this is why RTR have a separate switch and venom has one too!
Ideas comments welcome
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2012 19:31:58 GMT
A while back I had a dreadfull Quadzilla 500cc Buggy, it was one of those expletive deleted Chinese engines so didn't run very nice anyway, but I found that it always ran far too hot, so I opted for a switch to bypass any radiator switch. I have a USA gauge fitted so I expect the reading to be around 220F will be around 105C which is the point I would expect my fan to kick in. My SP1, VTR, VFR 400 and Buell all kicked in around 105 degrees C, I wanted to fit a switch to help the cooling process, Its an easy bypass, and a possible life saver. The other alternative is to mount the radiator back on the engine and duct air flow into it, or fit a high power suck fan on the front of it.
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Post by anglais on Feb 15, 2012 20:07:56 GMT
so you just fitted a simple bypass switch that you turn on and off when you need! there was no remote switching at a certain tmep.
cheers
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Post by edwinwl on Feb 15, 2012 20:32:58 GMT
The cooling system is connected to open air. So pressure inside the cooling system is about the same as the pressure outside the cooling system. The only connection between the inside cooling system and open air is trough the reservoir at the side of the radiator. As long as the reservoir is filled with cooling water, it lets air out and only water back into the system. When the system heats up the water expands, when it cools down the water contracts. The water pump is located low down at the bottom of the engine. As long as the water pump is sufficient submerged in water, it pumps water up into the engine forcing air out of the engine. When filling up the cooling system of my tR1ke, I filled the radiator and reservoir all the way up. Reservoir is closed but the radiator cap is still off. When starting the engine. The first few minutes the thermostat is closed. The cooling pipes are relative cold. After this few minutes the thermostat opens and within a few seconds the cooling pipes are too warm to hold and I am reading a temperature on my odo meter. Starting around 44 degrees C. (Before it reads "Lo") All the time I check if the radiator. If the water level drops I fill it up again. I have not tested exactly at what temperature my cooling fan starts. At the moment the fan starts I put the radiator cap on so the cooling system is all the way closed except through the reservoir bottle. The first few times when heating up the engine, the pump squeezed air out and sucks water into the system. So watch out the water level in the bottle.
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Post by anglais on Feb 15, 2012 21:34:35 GMT
Thanks edwinl,
So when you say the radiator cap is open, you left the cap off while you started the tr1ke to help get the air out! do you do this a few times letting the thermosate open and help get the air out the system.
mines fine until about 95 degrees then my understanding is the radiator cap has a presure system where when its too high it pushes coolant out the overflow through the resivoir. Could air in the system casue this?
thanks for all your help
Mines fine untill its about 200f
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2012 23:04:35 GMT
I bled my system in stages of running, I got fluid all the way round by means of removing the pipe on the front of the thermostat, the small 6mm pipe, initially vented steam, eventually it was pumping water through, this is the highest point on my system, so a good reference for no air being left in the system, if you have Anti-Freeze in, this will help cool the engine too. I haven't had it running long enough to get to 105 degrees on the R1 clock and see what my USA Temp Sender was doing, I have the standard temp sender on the front of the radiator and this reads the temp setting it is seeing on the R1 clock, my second gauge the USA one is on my dash and the sender is next to the thermostat, this will hopefully give me a better idea, can't say for sure what the R1 thinks it is seeing when it reaches 105 degrees, didn't have the USA gauge in at the stage I was testing, Putting the overide switch in was easy, just take one side of your switch wiring and run it through a switch, that's it. Mine is wired to constant 12V as I wanted to be able to cool it down after I stop the engine if I need to. The only test will be when I drive it back from Nottingham after MSVA, and pray it makes it the 65 miles home without issue, if not the AA man will have to bring me home, as I won't be letting him work on it.
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