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Post by anglais on Apr 6, 2012 8:28:02 GMT
yes, bought a new expansion tank most probally going to fit it behind the seats so wanted somthing that looked slightly better !
The demo does has an overide switch, but hoping with this i can just forget about it once an for all.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2012 9:22:30 GMT
It's pretty easy to put a bypass switch in mate. If you come over I can rig one up for you? I think you need one anyway as standing traffic etc.
Not doing anything else currently :-(
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Post by edwinwl on Apr 6, 2012 14:48:19 GMT
I was thinking about it. When your radiator cap is spitting cooling fluid...
Are your sure the tubing to the original expansion bottle is not blocked somewhere? It should spit and fart decent in to the bottle? Makes sense to me that cap valve is a protection for overpressure of the cooling system.
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Post by edwinwl on Apr 6, 2012 14:53:36 GMT
Consider it a free training: "dealing with dissapointments...."
:-( 2
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2012 17:23:13 GMT
Hey ive had enough disappointment with kit cars my bloody MNR cost me a fortune for the 1.3 miles I got out of it. So far I'm into the tune of nearly £30k so far with 2 vehicles not running well. I feel I will complain as much as I like:-)
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Post by anglais on Apr 6, 2012 19:02:01 GMT
My understanding/ thinking is.. the presure cap when it reaches beyond it capacity releases fluid into the expantion bottle, when it fills the bottle this goes through the overflow pipe onto the road, until the presure is sorted. There are no blocks etc i even replaced the presure cap to make sure it was working fine.
Since bleeding the system like you explained at the top of the themostate i had no problems but it never got that hot , the fan never kicked in etc. But last week when it was 20 degrees plus, took my first trip into the city centre, stop start etc. The fan kicked in just as the presure cap gave out did it twice that week.
The current system will never truly get rid of air pockets, incresing the presure, also been lower increases the presure i think. They are desighned to be at the top. The new system just moves it to the top, it still has a presure cap etc just will get rid of any air and hopfully only reach its presure limit only if the fan cant do its work to cool the liquid down taking the presure lower, which im sure it will.
its half fitted now anyway so will put some photos up tommorw.
Thankyou for the offer of the bypass switch, if im still having probs will take you up on the offer. Gutted for you about the the problems you are having, what does RTR think the problem is? was it a problem that developed on the way home ? or has it allways been like that not reving over 7000! hope you get it sorted with your engine rebuild, took me along time to get mine going right you can lose faith very quickly.
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vtR1k
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Post by vtR1k on Apr 6, 2012 20:25:14 GMT
Keep up the spirit guys! Complaining relieves . Believe me, I can know! Is your pressure cap still okay, or does it open too quick? How warm does the coolant become? Good coolant may reach up to 118 deg C before it starts boiling. Once it boils, the pressure goes up rapidly. So, use good coolant also. Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515m using ProBoards
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2012 20:34:44 GMT
I know mine boiled at 118 so avoid Pink. I hear Green is the way to go. I am also thinking to upgrade the fan if it's still an issue once I'm up and running. I hear water wetter adative is also a good idea.
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Post by anglais on Apr 7, 2012 9:27:18 GMT
Will take all that on board if its still having issues, the coolant hasnt boiled just comes out hot! im hoping the standard fan will sort it . The system is just like vTRik has allready done. I think all of us will eventually do this but will see, i officaly hate coolant the amount i have bought is ridiculous must have spent over £100 on it so far . cheers guys .
Oh btw, im loving the tweaks and driving it, no bad spirit with me, this is the part i wanted somthing i can play with that estentially works. Just feel Vennom pain and frustration, my dark days were when i got it back and it didnt work at all, when i exspected it would be fine.
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Post by anglais on Apr 8, 2012 7:05:36 GMT
kit from cbs , cost in total £105, Few hours to fit, very easy, its not in its final place as it sticks out allot, just leaving it there to see if its working etc. Need the rain to stop to check fully .
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Post by edwinwl on Apr 8, 2012 11:31:50 GMT
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vtR1k
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Post by vtR1k on Apr 13, 2012 6:00:20 GMT
Just curious: is has your tank a pressure-cap? If yes, be careful if it runs hot (hopefully it doesn't because then there is something wrong with the engine) because the steam will end up in your neck...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2012 12:10:38 GMT
A really good point, and one that is a bit of a worry with the bleed point on the thermostat at head height, it hurt like hell just bleeding the system, wouldn't want it flying off on full power. Might be worth fitting a deflector panel.
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Post by erik on Apr 13, 2012 17:01:46 GMT
plastic bag+ T-wrap?
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vtR1k
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Post by vtR1k on Apr 14, 2012 9:00:06 GMT
This is how I did it:
I kept the original pressure cap on the radiator, with the spill-reservoir connected. Both are located underneath the nosecone. If the cap opens, the vapour will go into the reservoir and then it will flow away underneath the vehicle, through a hose. It is basically the original setting. In the extra mounted reservoir, I tapped a 3/4" bsp thread and screwed a hydraulic plug inside. So, this will never open automatically. In case there are problems, the original cap will open without hurting anyone. If I think about it I will post some pics.
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