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Post by jimmypatch on Sept 6, 2014 20:43:00 GMT
Hi all ive just dipped my toe into the kit car world and ordered my Replicar, the mazda got delivered yesterday and I started pulling it apart today. Hopefully I will have the body off tomorrow.
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Post by jimmypatch on Sept 6, 2014 20:52:26 GMT
Can I put a private plate on the replicar once it's built?
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Post by mawdo81 on Sept 6, 2014 22:08:52 GMT
As long as it doesn't get a q plate from the dvla. However with a single mx5 donor and a new chassis with receipt made out to you, you should be fine getting an age related plate based on the donor age.
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Post by snowbird1 on Sept 8, 2014 5:49:42 GMT
Good to see another Replicar build, have fun, don't be afraid to ask questions, lots of good advice available.
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Post by jimmypatch on Sept 8, 2014 16:23:37 GMT
How are the IVA guys with stick on number plates?
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Post by mawdo81 on Sept 8, 2014 18:38:25 GMT
You need the iva before you can get number plates. I believe there are some requirements around the rear number plate space but not the front. Best to download and read the iva manual. James
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Post by R2S on Sept 9, 2014 9:00:28 GMT
Hi jimmypatch, took me best part of six months to get the body off the donor I'd never seen so many wires! Good to have another Replicar owner to share info and ideas with.
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Post by jimmypatch on Sept 9, 2014 9:41:30 GMT
It wont take me 6 months to get this car into bits, I should be in a position to pull the body off by the weekend. most of the wiring is not required so I'll chop them at source. I've got the chassis booked in for sandblasting on the 22nd of Sept, so I need to get I disagree into gear!
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Post by R2S on Sept 9, 2014 12:10:35 GMT
Must say with everything I've learnt to date I could do another strip down much quicker but I hadn't so much as done anything other than put in fuel oil and water into a car for the past twenty five years and electrics are not my bag. Plus I also had problems with seized bolts in the chassis including a complete bastxxd of a bolt joining the PPF to the diff.
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 9, 2014 13:07:49 GMT
jimmypatch.. I won't just go chopping wires off you think you don't need. Unplug all and label both sides of connectors. Some wires feed power and grounds to a few other wires go slow.. It is good to get car/build running then go after shorting the harness take pics of wires and of vac hoses.. When you start taking off the sub frames use 6 point sockets so you don't round off any rusty bolts/nuts..Same for seat bolts.. Presoak all fittings with Plaster.. What years doner do you have?? Put it in your profile and all posts.. Loosen both rear and front axle nuts while doner is together.. Here are links to wiring.. www.mellens.net/mazda/ www.miataforumz.com/miata-wiring.phpGood luck have fun and ask questions..
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Post by jimmypatch on Sept 9, 2014 14:29:47 GMT
I've pulled a subaru legacy twin turbo engine and loom out and smashed it into my vw camper, so I'm no stranger to this sort of thing. The rear sub frame nuts are on very very tight, one of the studs sheared off, but that was a bonus as it speeded things up! I snapped an extention bar trying to the rear left off. Hopefully the remainder are easier or snap off
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Post by R2S on Sept 9, 2014 17:04:18 GMT
jimmypatch, have a look on my thread Derbyshire Replicar page 4 re the ppf bolt and what can happen to the casting if strong arm tactics are used. I had to cut the long bolt out (in three pieces) in the end as an 'internal' collar had welded itself to the bolt and this shattered the casting when I tried to drift the bolt out. The casting I broke whilst different to that of the mk1 (mine is mk2) is interchangeable.
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Post by jimmypatch on Sept 9, 2014 21:36:15 GMT
That's all the rear sub frame bolts finally out, and the dash is now out
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Post by jimmypatch on Sept 9, 2014 22:14:44 GMT
jimmypatch, have a look on my thread Derbyshire Replicar page 4 re the ppf bolt and what can happen to the casting if strong arm tactics are used. I had to cut the long bolt out (in three pieces) in the end as an 'internal' collar had welded itself to the bolt and this shattered the casting when I tried to drift the bolt out. The casting I broke whilst different to that of the mk1 (mine is mk2) is interchangeable. ok I've read and mostly understood that the diff is a pig to remove from the ppf, my question is why do I need to remove the diff from the ppf?
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 10, 2014 2:58:19 GMT
You don't have to.. If you leave it on and only remove it from the trans..if you are going to.. When you put it back on trans leave the bolt on trans end a little loose when putting frame on so you have wiggle room to line up subs and frame..
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