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Post by R2S on Sept 10, 2014 8:24:06 GMT
Took mine off as the diff casing was/is badly corroded and i wanted to completely clean/treat/coat before use and I destroyed the bolt. As it turned out I won't now be using the original diff as I bought a whole rear axle that had been reconditioned when looking to purchase the broken casting (the seller wouldn't sell me just the casting ).
As per gwnwars note if you don't want to do anything re the casing I wouldn't remove the bolts although even to loosen the 'shouldered' bolt was a complete bastxxd and in loosening it I had passed the point of no return as the head of the bolt was completely destroyed in loosening the bolt, and I only ever use six sided sockets.
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Post by jimmypatch on Sept 10, 2014 13:07:24 GMT
ok cool, so I now need to ask another question. Do I need to remove the the PPF from the gearbox in order to take off the body?
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Post by R2S on Sept 10, 2014 15:03:53 GMT
No you lift the body off leaving the front subframe, ppf and rear subframe as a rolling unit at least thats what I did (see pictures on my thread). Btw if you are using a mk 2 donor don't go looking for the bolts holding the dash set behind the vents (as per the strip down notes Stuart supplied) , these are only used on Mk1 and I damaged my dash (which i was planning to sell) trying to remove the vents only to find there aren't any bolts behind there. I did find with my Mk2 that the side strips up the A pillar need to come off before dash and top rail above screen needs to be removed to get the side pillars off (don't think this is mentioned in the strip down notes but again this may be because they are for mk1)
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 10, 2014 22:25:39 GMT
+1 for R2S post.. you can leave it together..also leave the harness that runs on it just push it through the hole in trunk.. Before you pull the body make up 4 pieces of 2x4 or metal tubing to put between inner upper A arm and shock mount on lower A arm.. This way the roller won't be sitting on the ground when you pull body and you can move it.. Remember to break free rear and front axle nuts while weight of body is still on them and you have brakes.. release the stake punch on the nuts before turning so you don't ruin the threads..
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Post by jimmypatch on Sept 11, 2014 8:55:39 GMT
Yeah I knew that you didnt need to remove the diff or the gearbox from the PPF, I was just confused as to why people were mentioning it. The dash is now fully out, didnt need to remove A pillars or vents. I just unbolted it and pulled Hard! Hopefully the body will be off by the weekend and fully sandblasted and sprayed by this time next week.
Did someone say IVA by Chrismas?
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Post by snowbird1 on Sept 12, 2014 6:09:12 GMT
If you need to clean, de-rust and paint everything - then to do a good job you need to separate the components. I completely dismantled my UK donor although I only ended up using the front subframe, steering rack, pedal assemblies, column plus body and dash wiring. I didn't dismantle anything on the Californian donor, just changed the front subframe and steering rack (RHD) and dropped the MEV frame onto the 'roller skate'.
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Post by jimmypatch on Sept 13, 2014 17:24:13 GMT
Another productive day on the Mazda, that's the loom fully out, as is the pedals, steering column, brake servo and clutch reservoir. The handbrake cables are a pig to get off from the calipers so i might just cut them and buy new ones.
I even had time to de-rust my new car trailer today
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Post by jimmypatch on Sept 13, 2014 17:33:32 GMT
Oh and my vynyl sticker order turned up today, so I now have white racing roundsls with no. "5" numerals and an Aston Martin bonnet badge ?
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 13, 2014 20:00:54 GMT
With the E brake cables there is a bolt 14mm that holds the bracket to the caliper just remove it..
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Post by jimmypatch on Sept 14, 2014 21:22:09 GMT
I started to pull the body off of the mazda today, I think the steering column snagging as the whole front end is lifting up, not good
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 15, 2014 1:10:32 GMT
Did you loosen the steering at the J joint.. There is also a ground strap exhaust side of engine to the body..
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Post by snowbird1 on Sept 15, 2014 5:54:12 GMT
Oh and my vynyl sticker order turned up today, so I now have white racing roundsls with no. "5" numerals and an Aston Martin bonnet badge ? Where did you get your stickers? Did you get the period 'David Brown Aston Martin' badge?
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Post by R2S on Sept 15, 2014 6:12:38 GMT
Is the front subframe loose? From memory the other things that were connecting body to subframe (but unlikely to take weight) were:- Clutch line Brake lines Earth bond at rear of engine (as per gwnwars post) Front undertray (its fastened to to wings at the front (it was on mine) Front brake sensors
As for steering column I removed mine and loosened the joint at the bottom as far as was possible and didn't have a problem with this.
The biggest problem I had was trying to lift the body high enough to clear the engine when I slid the rolling frame out under the front.
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Post by jimmypatch on Sept 15, 2014 9:48:49 GMT
So, the earth strap was connected but disconnected itself, subframes are fully off, as are: brakelines, clutch line, undertray, anti roll bar, I'm tempted to just hack out the body from around the steering column
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Post by R2S on Sept 15, 2014 10:15:12 GMT
Think I may have miss understood your previous post I thought you were talking about the lower joint still being in place. The steering column should be completely removed before lifting the body off, getting to the lower joint is a bit of a pain but once its off the shaft is easily removed.
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