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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2013 22:20:15 GMT
Can I ask the obvious?
You have removed the tensioner which pushes onto the rack itself?
It's the internal hex made of cheese.
If you manage to get it out, it pushes a spring onto a nylon block on the rack. You can't seat the pinion back in unless you've undone it.
Just an idea, but I can't see you have removed it.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2013 22:22:32 GMT
If you haven't removed it... Then I'm correct in thinking that your banging your head on the nearest wall now???
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Post by shaggy33 on Oct 3, 2013 22:32:34 GMT
What absolute donut I am! Bloody hell there's no hope for me if I can't even rebuild a steering g rack. I even followed the guide put up on here but missed the part about slipper plug. To be honest I thought that was the plate that held the pinion in.
Banging my head against a wall? More like jumping out the nearest window! Apologies to everyone for wasting their time.....
Where the hell do I get a 20mm Allen key:-)
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Post by Deleted on Oct 4, 2013 6:11:53 GMT
Easy mistake;) I tried to cheat after not having an Allen key, and sneak the rack in place. The old onejust slid out. I got the symptoms you described trying to fit the quaife internals.  Then, I had to get an Allen key ! |
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Post by shaggy33 on Oct 4, 2013 7:23:38 GMT
Cheers Steve, that's what I'll do I think buy an Allen key. Probably only use it once or twice but makes life easier. I said that about my exhaust spring puller tool and ended up using it all the time
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Post by airforceone on Oct 4, 2013 7:59:21 GMT
What was wrong with the original rack?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 4, 2013 8:20:53 GMT
Cheers Steve, that's what I'll do I think buy an Allen key. Probably only use it once or twice but makes life easier. I said that about my exhaust spring puller tool and ended up using it all the time The Allen bolt itself, is made of cheese.. now, its harder then Edam, but not harder than Cheddar. It has the density of Lancashire Cheese... Id remove all plastic you possibly can, and apply nice heat to the outside of the alloy part of the rack, which the bung threads in to. Given, mine was a cheesy plastic, that was then bonded into place, it didn't take too kindly to being removed. So, id try to soften the threadlock/glue with a little heat (hairdryer/boiling water?) just to give the alloy some expansion too. Not sure about naked flame, unless your bung is alloy/metal. Take your time, and tease it out. Its a very fine thread. |
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Post by shaggy33 on Oct 4, 2013 8:57:58 GMT
Absolutely nothing wrong with the standard rack but I just had to have the quick rack didn't I, a decision I am beginning to regret now. At least it's not made of Brie, now that is one super soft cheese.
What is a little worrying is that initial t'interweb searches don't bring up any 20mm Allen keys so may have fun hunting one down. Good call reference heat, will certainly help to burn off any thread lock
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Oct 4, 2013 9:50:12 GMT
but a 20mm bolt and 2 nuts. job done for a quid, you will never use it again
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Post by Deleted on Oct 4, 2013 10:59:11 GMT
nice, forgot about the nut/bolt method.. mine rounded before I could get it out...
Now.. Trust me, you ARE doing the right thing with a quickrack. When these cars get out of shape, and they DO.. then a quick rack will save you nicely. Ive uploaded a video on exo-exiles.co.uk which, on the 2nd lap closing on the elise, the backend of my car tries to get out of line, during apex. At that speed, its just a little flick of the wheel, and were good.
It is a good mod, and IMHO should be standard with every build on here.
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Post by shaggy33 on Oct 4, 2013 12:17:31 GMT
Great idea, just need to find a bolt with 20mm head....m14 have 19mm and m16 have 21!
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Post by kiwicanfly on Oct 4, 2013 17:39:48 GMT
Great idea, just need to find a bolt with 20mm head....m14 have 19mm and m16 have 21! Simply to solve - use the 19mm and a 1mm putting on tool |
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Post by Barney on Oct 4, 2013 17:53:30 GMT
M15 then. Popular size that!
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Post by shaggy33 on Oct 11, 2013 16:12:21 GMT
Well the inevitable has happened. Got a 21mm bolt head, ground it down to fit the slipper plug of steering rack, went to turn and as I was warned it collapsed like cheese.
Not enough of course to make it easy to remove so I have a mashed up plug which I can't get out!
Whilst I figure that out (and buy a 20mm allen key!) does anyone know if you can buy the slipper plug on it's own...?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2013 16:29:22 GMT
Not sure where to buy them from..
Mine collapsed, so I got some 12mm thick alloy, cut it out with a hole saw to make a donut with about a 8mm hole in the centre.
I tapped this hole to make a thread, and a bolt goes through it to put pressure on the slipper/spring assembly. There's a locking nut to prevent movement.
It's held in place by cross drilling through the rack hole, into the alloy donut sides in 4 places. Then tapped, and secured. Some sealer prevents dirt ingress.
It's the DIY option if you can't order the bung from fords;)
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