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Post by kiwicanfly on Dec 6, 2015 7:43:00 GMT
I have aways wondered what size cable the Dominator headlights were designed for, I figure it must be amoured sub-sea cable of some type otherwise why would the opening be so large? Decided to do something about it so made aluminium inserts to block off the hole somewhat. Fixed with silicon. Fitted the centre tunnel, it has to come out once more to be anodized but I wanted the fixings in place prior to that and I want to make up the surrounds for the handbrake and gear lever boots.
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Post by Stiggy on Dec 6, 2015 9:59:39 GMT
Dominator lights were designed for bikes and they tend to stuff fuses and even the flasher relay in there, hence the big hole.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Dec 12, 2015 5:38:22 GMT
When I first plumbed up the cooling system I used basic jubilee clips on the pipe work. I have heard of leaks with these so swapped to proper silicon clamps. Unfortunately three of my pipe joiners were too narrow for the wider clamps so, using our dedicated joiner making machine at work (we seem to have a machine for everything in our workshop), I knocked three longer ones out. Old and new shown below. Then fitted the radiator. The front is pretty much complete now, well I might add some wheels.
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Post by mawdo81 on Dec 12, 2015 22:10:22 GMT
Feeling quite envious of your skills and resources ?
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Post by kiwicanfly on Dec 12, 2015 22:40:49 GMT
I have to admit I do have access to an unfair number of resources compared to most, not even touched the foundry and CNC resources yet but that might come if I build my own throttle body set - we make those in house too, fifth thing down the page but full site not running yet. www.cambrian.co.nz/product-lines.html
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Post by kiwicanfly on Dec 17, 2015 8:17:58 GMT
Finally fitted the bushes for the the front under the wing stays.
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Post by sammy on Jan 2, 2016 13:32:52 GMT
The quality and attention to every single piece when I look at the photos and very high. Compliments
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Post by jacksdad on Jan 10, 2016 18:26:18 GMT
Kiwi those bushes are v nice, could you make me a couple and post happy to pay for manufacture and postage ??
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 10, 2016 18:53:43 GMT
Typical, you spend three years making Red and Shiny things and the reaction is simply "pretty" but the minute you post a picture of the apprentice boys "training exercise" he's got an international export order and is on his way to becoming the CEO of an multinational automotive manufacturing company No problems Jon, we have friends out who can take them home with them and post in UK, pm me an address. Won't be till next month though.
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Post by mawdo81 on Jan 10, 2016 21:55:10 GMT
Did you pack your bag yourself sir? Are you carrying anything for anyone else sir? ?
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Post by jacksdad on Jan 10, 2016 23:20:53 GMT
Yay that is very cool of course I might have it on the road in a month but just in case not that will be great I'll pm an address.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 11, 2016 19:01:12 GMT
Did you pack your bag yourself sir? Are you carrying anything for anyone else sir? ? Yeah if you install them and, upon tightening, they crumble into a white powdery substance my friends will have got the two packages muddled up
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 17, 2016 7:30:55 GMT
Finished the centre tunnel. It had got pretty scratched over time so first job was to polish it up (well to a satin finish) prior to anodizing. What a PITA it was, spent about six hours on it with various grades of wet and dry and finally a scotchbrite pad. Didn't manage to get every mark out but when my fingers had become Red an Shiny I felt it was time to stop! Anodized it to finish. Then put edging around, well, every edge. Then fitted the hand brake cover and gear knob plus gators. I think I should have cut the centre of the gear knob plate a little bigger and trimmed the gator down more however as it is going to be changed to a flappy paddle system down the line I am not to bothered.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 31, 2016 8:26:36 GMT
Well it has been almost two weeks since my last confession but the odd bit of progress has happened. Was bothered that one of my coolant pipes was sitting a little close to the exhaust so tied it back to the bulkhead with a cable tie, nice and simple solution and the tie is around the joiner so no chance of crushing the pipe. The COR - well my, almost, final solution was to do this where it fitted to the tunnel, I added a CORK (Cover Of Randomness Korector). Although I say it myself I now have a COP (Cover Of Precision) Unfortunately this first piece was only supposed to be a test piece but it fitted so well it might just stay in place, shame about the extra hole that was in the scrap piece already. Sods law says if I make another one it will have no hole but be a worse fit Painted and fitted the accelerator pedal but "decided" to omit the spacers however that was a mistake, I figured with the bracket I had welded on I did not need them, especially as I could find no suitable bolts in the tin so concluded perhaps I had designed them out explaining the shorter bolts. Certainly made braking interesting when I had a test drive today as distinguishing between the brake and accelerator pedals was almost impossible In the main I have used stainless bolts throughout my build, the tensile strength, whilst lower than high tensile g12.8 fasteners is pretty close to g8.8 which most production cars use and which are a lot heavier than a Rocket. Couldn't quite sleep over using that grade for the front wheels though so used a couple of these beauties. They are true high tensile stainless bolts, Bumax 109's which are equivalent to g10.9. I did curse RTR for making the bottom of the wing stays too close to get a socket in without scratching the paint though Then I went out to play mevowners.proboards.com/thread/7624/escaped
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 14, 2016 8:54:24 GMT
Made a couple of spacers for the accelerator pedal, spaced another 5mm over what the Joker spacers would have given. Set the pedals so that the brake and clutch are a bit higher than the accelerator and the experience is loads better, can actual distinguish which is which now! When I cut up the engine cover I found that no matter what I was getting a gap on the side which was annoying me. Found a simple fix. First I drilled through the cover into the aluminium strip I had glued underneath. Then I attached a rivnut with an M4 screw but did not crimp it, this gave me a nice spigot to drop into the hole in the strip when it closes. Now closes the gap nicely.
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