|
Post by perthwa on Apr 12, 2023 7:38:57 GMT
Mk 1 vs Mk2 This is the hub from a 2008 Focus. 37 splines (27.8mm diameter) and 47mm long shaft with a bolt and washer to hold it together. Bearing is 78.5mm OD 37mm width. The other drive shaft looks like this. There is no Ford markings which makes me skeptical that it is OEM. But the dimensions seem to be as described above. Note that there is a nut and a threaded section. So as per previous comments, I will get the dodgy bearings pressed out; either sleeve or re-make the housing for the Mark 1 bearing dimensions (as long as I convince myself that the drive shaft is the OEM dimensions.). I will also do the same for the Mark 2 Housings for the Sonic 7 build. Back on track... Thanks for the collective wisdom and the suggestions. p.s. My 'Untorquer' did have a 1m of inch square tube as a handle and a 1.5m metal 40mm square section connected to the wheel hub bolts BUT we don't really want to compare the length of our bits... do we?.... Happy Easter... BW
|
|
|
Post by mawdo81 on Apr 13, 2023 11:15:10 GMT
You maybe able to find or get made a bearing to suit...at least enquire at a specialist supplier before going to the cost and expense of redoing the uprights.
|
|
|
Post by buildityourself on Apr 14, 2023 19:40:50 GMT
The other drive shaft looks like this. There is no Ford markings which makes me skeptical that it is OEM. But the dimensions seem to be as described above. Note that there is a nut and a threaded section. So as per previous comments, I will get the dodgy bearings pressed out; either sleeve or re-make the housing for the Mark 1 bearing dimensions (as long as I convince myself that the drive shaft is the OEM dimensions.). Look like Mk1 focus drive shafts to me. Also your uprights look like they have the depth for the Mk1 bearings. just without the retaining clip groove.
|
|
|
Post by perthwa on Apr 25, 2023 7:00:02 GMT
found a mate with a bearing press. Here is the culprit. The single 21 mm wide bearing used instead of the 37mm ford bearing. A single ball bearing race versus a dual ball bearing. It is a poor photo but the other bearing is from the Mk 2. but the Mk 1 and Mk 2 are the same width. Hear is the carrier: notice the lack of a circlip groove. When we were trying to press out the hub section the bearing actually moved down into the race. So I recon that the bearing has moved whilst they were pressing in the hub section. No wonder it was moving around. a view of the other side. They almost look commercial. My options are find a bearing that fits the carrier. 80mm diameter 39mm centre bore and 37mm wide. Have looked online but can not find one (yet). Needs to be dual ball roller sealed... theoretically designed as a wheel bearing. Re-make the two bearing carriers to suit the actual Mk 1 Bearing OD (72 mm I think) and 37mm wide. Probably will go this direction as I need to make two more anyway for my Mk 2 Sonic 7 Uprights. just different OD and one pressed in from inside (Mk 1) with a circlip groove and the other from the outside Mk 2 without the groove.. Here is the mk 2 hub with bearing pressed on permanently as one unit and the hub unit in the Mk 1. Back to the internet...
|
|
|
Post by perthwa on Apr 25, 2023 8:40:17 GMT
My mate also has a lathe so now I am buying some chrome moly to make up the four bearing housings to suit.
|
|
|
Post by kiwicanfly on Apr 26, 2023 10:18:02 GMT
Are you sticking with four bolts holding it in or are you going to weld it together?
Looking at the state of those welds I'd grind out the existing welds and then weld everything including the bearing housings so that the braces are also welded to the housings.
However I would finish bore the bearing diameters after welding so they are still round after welding, unlike what RTR sold me.
|
|
|
Post by perthwa on Apr 29, 2023 2:53:38 GMT
Are you sticking with four bolts holding it in or are you going to weld it together? Looking at the state of those welds I'd grind out the existing welds and then weld everything including the bearing housings so that the braces are also welded to the housings. However I would finish bore the bearing diameters after welding so they are still round after welding, unlike what RTR sold me. Yes... that was some of my concerns as well. As we had to press the actual bearing housing out of the upright (it was just very tight - not sure that they had cooled it before it was inserted and bolted it but it was reasonably well attached. Probably a bit of paint and wear didn't help) , I noticed that the Upright was flexing under the press. I will probably at least weld both sides I have seen people weld them to the housing; the clearance is pretty tight, maybe 1mm. There is enough room to add some other pieces so I will have a think about maybe adding one or two more braces. If I do weld them to the housing, I will definitely get them trued up before inserting the bearing. We have decided to get some chrome moly round tube and make up a 4mm insert sleeve for the housing. Then use the Factory sized 72 OD x37 Width x39 ID bearing. We will also add a circlip groove and a couple of bolts to make sure the sleeve doesn't back out. The sleeve will also be rebated by a mm or so on the brake/wheel end so that it can not move outwards as it will butt up against the original rebate.
|
|
|
Post by perthwa on May 21, 2023 13:06:02 GMT
Next dilemma: The 38.892 mm bearings that the previous builder has used are just under the 39mm shaft size of the true Ford bearing. Solution: turn the shaft down to the required size.
I have just purchased the new Mark 1 bearing and sure enough I can slide the bearing on to the shaft... so much for pressing the bearing on.
My measurements show that the shaft is 28.94mm and the bearing is 39.00mm the shaft just rocks on the 6/100th mm gap..
So now I need to find some ford axles to replace the butchered ones I currently have... more outlay and inconvenience.
Bought some steel to make the inserts for the bearing housing. Planning on doing that this Friday..
Was obviously going to try to do the bearing press once done. now need to get new axle first..
|
|
|
Post by perthwa on Jun 5, 2023 14:06:11 GMT
update: Bearing housings completed. Sleeves made and pressed in. Bearings pressed in. turned the Mk housing into more like Mk 2 and bearings pressed in from wheel side. Bearing retaining plate also made. Now have the correct Mk 1 bearings, double roller correct width... Just have top get new / old hubs as they were modified.... Mate cut in some groves so that we could press them out a little more easily if required... Hubs to come then back on the road to DOTT and engineering... Been a long two months...
|
|
|
Post by kiwicanfly on Jun 6, 2023 6:41:22 GMT
Have you got the hubs ordered?
|
|
|
Post by perthwa on Jun 7, 2023 12:24:39 GMT
Have you got the hubs ordered? Not yet , looking at some wrecking yards latter this week before I go to the market.
|
|
|
Post by kiwicanfly on Jun 7, 2023 19:09:46 GMT
I've got a couple of brand new ones here in NZ, might be expensive to post though.
4 X 108 stud pattern.
|
|
|
Post by perthwa on Jun 9, 2023 7:34:07 GMT
I've got a couple of brand new ones here in NZ, might be expensive to post though. 4 X 108 stud pattern. I had a quick look at Fed Ex from NZ to Perth WA and was in the order of 130$ Au. for a 3kg package. Found a 2004 focus in a wrecker locally and they want 140$ each. Have emailed a second local wrecker and requested a price. called into 3 other local wreckers BUT they stock Mk II at best. looking at new pair from UK and that comes in around 220AU$ so.. it is 6 of one and a half a dozen of the other. Decisions soon... Regards
|
|
|
Post by perthwa on Jun 9, 2023 12:12:53 GMT
Realised that the NZ mail service will surface mail 3.5 kg for around 50$ so that makes NZ supply a lot more attractive. Happy to get a message if you are willing.
and the other Wrecker contacted me and was chasing 300$ for a pair.
NZ is looking good.
|
|
|
Post by buildityourself on Jun 9, 2023 20:24:49 GMT
|
|