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Post by perthwa on Jun 19, 2021 10:56:35 GMT
Thought that I should stick my Rocket stuff in a Rocket build diary. Fixed the Nose Cone to brackets. Not sure about the grill and can not see the winglets fitting... Not sure if I should paint grill silver, black or blue... Here are the four tabs added for the Front section. You can see some scuff marks where the top section was rubbing on the frame. I trimmed a few mm off the base so that it is now snug, but not scraping paint off. Relocated the Driver's seat by about 20mm to the outside as the centre console was going to clash. Marked the passenger's side ready for tomorrow. Removed these carpets from the interior. They are mounted on 1/2 inch marine plywood. Now just checker plate floor. Rather impressed with some of the gear that the previous builder has added. This is a billet Steering column with lights and indicator included. 1.2 k if the website is correct... Nice! Then moved onto centre console.. Previous builder has made on from mdf. Fits reasonably but I need to get foot room near clutch pedal so I have hacked it up and test fitted.. Now I will use it as a template for some Aluminium replacements. Ditto for this wooden dash cluster. Will not let me add photo... Where the two holes are drilled, there is now a 100mm semi circle to attach just above the steering column. I will probably just use this wooden version for now and change after DOT... or never! Adjusted the toe in a little and put some air in the tyres, now I have had 1 full day to see what I purchased. At least I can push it around the drive way now. I did wonder why it was so hard to get it off the trailer. I also tightened up the front Shocks a few turns. Now it sits about the legal 100mm. I also noticed that the steering arms seemed at too large an angle, so I inverted the ball joints. It definitely looks less weird than it does here.
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Post by perthwa on Jun 20, 2021 3:30:10 GMT
first attempt at centre console a Quick 3 hours.. Wood section also to be replaced soon.
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Post by perthwa on Jul 4, 2021 12:23:45 GMT
Relocate the battery? Why not! I decided that the battery located behind the drivers seat was better located up the front. Partly because the fuel tank is too small and likely to be doubled and located where the battery is. The fuse box in it original location before I moved it! Then decided that the fuse box might as well be shifted up front as well. So here is the change. The two sets of cables are the positive and negative cables for the starter and the alternator and the other one is the 13 wires that I extended for the engine harness connecting to the fuse box.. All have been soldered and reconnected and wrapped. Messy at the moment but thats ok. So lets build a battery box and then install it. Used rivnuts to hold it to the fire wall. The third one is also the one that holds the top of the battery clamp. Should function well as a foot rest. So then had to make a decision about the fuse box.. a mate suggested that I just buy a couple of smaller ones from Auto shop and throw this big one in the bin.. Sitting just a bit too high here but also getting late so a tomorrow job. Decided that I should add all of the Aluminium bits that I have been working on.. NB: not all attached fully yet. You can see my switch panel that I talk about in this post below. And although not in the correct order... I decided that the 12 Litre fuel tank was not going to cut it. So I was looking at duplicating and enlarging a second tank for the driver's side. BUT - the gift that keeps on giving - my $2000 Locost purchase - just happens to have a Holden Gemini late 70s fuel tank... as a spare. the locost already has a tank installed. This is it sitting on four bricks. And here is a view from the rear of the role bar. The fuel filler was on the left hand side and now it is going to be on the right hand side. I need to plumb in a return line and I will be trying to use the marine fuel tank sender unit that is installed in the tank above. The problem is that I need to exchange it as it is 225 mm in the Aluminium tank and only need about 175 in the Gemini tank. Looking for a receipt from the person I bought the car from, so I can make that happen. Need to weld in a couple of brackets to hold it in place. Then install a fire wall between the exhaust and the fuel tank. Ditto for fuel tank and the passenger compartment. A Place for my switches! Decided that I would install the Speedometer, yet to be purchased into the Fibreglass bonnet facia. Ditto for the fuel guage. The switches needed somewhere so I made this to allow them to be in reach etc. And the seats! Remember I said that I had just shifted them over a little... WELL that was then. Now I have removed both and I am taking out at least 25mm of the height. With normal runners on my feet, I have issues with the steering wheel and the clutch. Not so much in moving it, more with what to do with my foot when not using the clutch. Seats decision also tomorrow... I am not that fussed on the flimsy brackets sitting here on the runners.
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Post by perthwa on Jul 5, 2021 11:29:27 GMT
Seats lowered and installed albeit with the wrong bolts! Here is a view of the before and after trim of the brackets. still need to clean up and weld on the trimmed one... and paint... And the view of the front brackets with one done and the other waiting. and the fitted seats... Look just the same ... too bad it involved about 4 hours of time... and I have now to clean up the brackets, paint them, get the proper bolts and then put the seat belts back in... So sort of finished!!! It looks just the same height as the early photos effectively because in those shots the seats were just sitting on the floor. I had to also move the left hand seat the same amount left as I did move the driver's side to the right, about 2 cm. This gave more room to clear the tunnel hardware and allow full extent of the tracks to run. Now. back to fusebox location.
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Post by perthwa on Jul 5, 2021 11:51:42 GMT
Impressed by Billet Works Australia, They responded immediately to my request to look up the previous owner's purchase order and then email me the appropriate wiring harness details. Nice billet work and great customer service...
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Post by perthwa on Jul 7, 2021 14:20:10 GMT
Another day... added the seat belts to the car to check fitting and get them out of the way. Made a bracket - container for the fuse box. Rivnutted in place. sort of looks like it is on a funny angle but side follows the structural member and base is basically horizontal. Then I extended the wires from the fuse box to the key and put in it's location. Then drilled a hole for the wires to pass under the hood. and added a grommet. not quite finished with key wiring and yet to make it look nice. And the next day.. Fuel tank fitting, remodelled a Ford bracket.. Then a mate arrived and we worked on a fire wall between the fuel tanka and the exhaust manifold. And then moved on to the passenger compartment fire wall to the fuel tank.. A fair bit of cardboard and a few decisions made. I will add photos tomorrow after I do some cutting and fitting. Then back to the fuel tank. I did cut a piece of Flat bar to support one side of the fuel tank... Not sure about the other side as the fire wall put a little halt to the original decision. Here is another night photo of the car... still annoying that there looks like no progress...
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Post by perthwa on Jul 8, 2021 11:49:42 GMT
Firewalls done except for a bit of the small details. made the passenger fuel tank separator out of 3mm Al in 2 sections. The Aluminium sheets have been sitting around and are a bit dirty but the fit is nice. base section needs attaching with a couple screws. The messy bit around the end of the tunnel aslo needs cleaning up. the issue is the different angles and the seat runner contact in the further back setting. The back section nearest the engine cover is also rinutted on. The hex head bolts are just for now. I will add shiny domed allen key ones latter. And with the seats sitting in place... Back to the fuel tank tomorrow.
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Post by buildityourself on Jul 8, 2021 20:13:28 GMT
Impressed with the amount of work happening. Isn't it the middle of winter?
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Post by perthwa on Jul 10, 2021 12:19:44 GMT
Yes it is and I am working in a open carport. It was about 10C when I started this morning... got up to 19C this afternoon. Also had 20mm of rain over the last two days... At least when I do work in the shed it isn't too bad. Today: Decided to make some changes to the gauges cluster after a chat with a few mates last evening. Put the speedo that I just purchased into the steering wheel cluster and shifted the water temp meter to the centre cluster with the fuel gauge. Just need to add a few switches and we will be good. Here is a before and after set of photos. Spent some time to trim a few bits of the steering wheel cluster. Filled a few holes, sanded it a bit. painted the facia etc, added the speedo, shifted the rpm to the left. added the press button adjuster for the Speedo to the underside panel. Here is the big view . Also ran wires from the indicator lights. now just need to get some wires all connected back to the batter box and fuse box. Then I spent time attaching the passenger fire wall unit bolted to the floor. Added a 20mm square section and riveted that the the base, added 4 rivnuts and put in 4 8mm bolts from under the car floor to hold them in place. Then I spent a couple of hours cleaning the fire wall used some 600 grit wet and dry paper to remove the water damage. then had to resort to some 240 grit to get out some other scratches... then some more 600 to make it better... I will look for some finer grit to finish it of to a nice finish. Was dark before I finished so photos to come. BONUS: I actually had a look at the Steering column unit and was pleased to see that the indicators are self cancelling and that the hazard button works. That will be two less switches to go on the centre console.. I think I will only need one for the headlights low beam and high beam; there is a two stage switch in the kit so that will work.. Also thinking that a cooling fan override might be installed... Possibly an interior light? well, an under dash light or two that can be switched on when people are getting in and out. Not sure about a battery isolator? Not sure why I am puting it in?
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Post by perthwa on Jul 14, 2021 11:28:15 GMT
Another day or two... Fuel tank brackets: Fuel tank is out of a classic mini van apparently... I am sure that was bloody obvious to almost everyone in the UK... but I only ever had a '68 Deluxe mini, with Twin Tanks, extractors, 30 thou' over-bored 1275cc, 1 1/2 SU's etc... so excuse my ignorance... I traced it via the fuel sender which had a part number from Smith Industries. There on the mini spares website an identical fuel tank... and a mention that it was used for kitcars in many cases... So here is a photo of the drivers side upper bracket. and here is a lower bracket and my crappy welding on the passenger side. And this is the first photo of the engine bay firewall in place. Actually added some screws to the top to hold it in place. Need to get some edging / grommets to protect the cables and pipes. and now the flat bar across the front brackets in place. The fuel tank has been painted as per the brackets. and the rear brackets loosely in place. Then I put the sheet metal back in place to make sure I have clearance. Also purchased some oil and radiator inhibitor... and some 320, 600, 800 and 1000 grit wet and dry to polish up the Aluminium sheets one day soon. Fuel sender did not work: So now that I know that I can purchase one from the UK... I decided to fix it. Opened it up, found that the wire connecting the rheostat to the post was broken... Found a suitable substitute, soldered it to the post and also to the entry point on the rheostat. Now I get a resistance value from 0 to 240 ohms... so now I need to test the fuel gauge and see if it likes the sender readings. Now I need to find an Elbow for the fuel exit from the tank as the original spigot just interferes with the passenger compartment fire wall. Also need to locate a suitable fuel return inlet fitting for the return line from the engine as far as I know... Then I will make up a support bracket for the fuel pump and filter in the space below the tank. I have a feeling that DOT may require a side panel on the fuel tank fire wall unit. See what I can find out before I make a pair of these. Probably also need a patch over the HOLE in the fire wall where the gearbox cables exit... too easy.
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Post by perthwa on Aug 1, 2021 10:34:38 GMT
Not sure what I've been doing as everything looks the same... Know that feeling? I have been beavering aways doing a range of jobs but most of them have very little to show.. Wiring for instance! Wired all of the five Dash gauges into distribution blocks with lights, power, earths etc. Now checking out the fuse box as the previous builder deleted a fair few things and didn't label a few others.. Also ran all of the feed wires back to the engine bay. Re-wired in the tail lights, they were wired but you can see from these shots that it needed a bit more. p.s. thats not my sore thumb... Had a mate over... Then added in the High level Brake light and got brake lights to work, and also parking lights. Just need to add reverse light, and number plate light. I still have to wire it throught to the Brake pedal switch and to the fuse box. Added three switches and have decided to get a five pole Relay for the headlights and High beam. Switches all have lights so just have to add an Ignition light globe, as far as I know. Then I spotted some lockable pins and I decided that I can hide them under the bonnet lip. Add to that a newly added folded Aluminium lip only the bonnet. Here are the pins added to the channel. This will be hidden in the bonnet channel and only the key section will be visible from the outside. This is the pin in location, albeit, with the bonnet above and a view from the front showing where it will be located. Basically, inline with the mirrors. This is what it will look like from underneath BUT it will be pushed in a lot closer to the side wall. The channel is effectively the same width as the Fibreglass channel. The pin has about 1 cm of depth and this should easily be located by a welded bracket attached to the side tube. This will give me two different fixing mechanisms, The locking pins and the Rubber catches that were already attached. The masking tape is holding a bit of rubber padding that should stop any bouncing or drumming. I will glue it on directly... Here it is in situ. Not designed as a pivot, but appears as that may be a bonus. Might have to add a stick to hold it open.. Maybe not! What else? Well the headlight wires in this shot have been pulled apart. Pretty much a half done job that I can make better and re-route then and attach to a fixture... There are two relays mounted on the fire wall for low and high beam. I will either put them back into the fuse box now that it is one foot away! or run the five pin relay as that is even easier... Work and crappy weather are getting in the way of the build... but we are moving forward.
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Post by perthwa on Aug 1, 2021 12:59:02 GMT
Found a photo with my brake light switch attached to the steering column. and also my first attempt at a support for the fuel pump and filter
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Post by perthwa on Aug 14, 2021 10:38:07 GMT
Wiring: a lot of effort and not a lot to show! Well, that is not entirely true. I have added my high beam dimmer switch. Added a bit of pipe, shoved a toggle switch in the end and attached it to the dash. Then added a BLUE light for high beam and stupidly put in a green light to balance the dash. NOW it is red as I realised that the brakes need a warning light... Here is a side view. and one with my finger in view for perspective. and a view showing the clearance etc. After that I ran the rear Indicator light wires to the front of the car. Then extended the front indicator wires. Then I added a hand brake wire to the hand brake and ran that to the front of the car. Then I removed the crappy third Switch I put in the console and replaced that with a wider toggle switch. I will probably use that for interior lighting. Seems like quite a few of the members at the Sports car builder's club have all installed some sort of courtesy lights for getting organised before driving away. Especially for passengers fussing around with harnesses etc. It is a two way switch so I may also install an engine compartment light.. Next is connecting brake lights to the switch and power etc... Then brake failure light connection to reservoir caps (and handbrake etc) which I am going to 'borrow' but may be purchase from someone who has them but only used them for DOT... if he wants to sell them. I did test the dash lights this evening and discovered they all work except for the speedometer. I will check that tomorrow. Now I can look up what an indicator relay does and see if I can install one of those and then get the hazard lights to work. Need to purchase some white front 'clearance' lights as the headlights purchased by the original builder do not have the facility to run a small 'running' aka clearance light. More to come!
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Post by perthwa on Aug 15, 2021 10:54:48 GMT
More Wiring...!
Worked out the indicators in spite of the notes supplied. The left and right hand modes just complete a circuit; the dash led will go in parallel and will earth out. The power in will come from the indicator Flasher unit , which is an open circuit until you move the indicator left or right.
When that happens current flows dash glows, lights flash. simple. Now with three different lights on each side, is it prudent to run a relay for each side. My steering column doesn't cover warranty for any overload current BUT doesn't say what that value might be.
For the Hazards, there must be a double pole switch inside that simply connects both left and right circuits independently but at the same time.
So that just operates both sides at the same time...
I don't mind doing a relay or two but ... I have activated (tested) both sides albeit without the side repeaters attached as I do not have any yet, and nothing gets hot...
I have got a functioning Horn. wired and relayed and working.
Also covered the tail light harnesses with coil over plastic stuff. Ditto for front headlight wiring harness. Also started running the same coil plastic stuff over the second harness that goes from the engine bay through to the front fuse box.. so far twenty plus wires in two separate harnesses.
Wired up the rear brake lights to the front Pedal switch. just need a power supply and brake lights are good to go. More to come. Actually had to move the car into the shade today as there was not a cloud in the sky...
Also organised a replacement (warranty) for a broken battery charger. Now I have a charged battery so I can think about going live...
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Post by perthwa on Sept 29, 2021 0:45:07 GMT
Holidays again.. Yippee! Back to the build.... Update... the usual eclectic (Random) nature of my builds. Wiring continues - but I did put wire up the battery and have managed to connect a few fuses, 1 at a time to see that nothing melts. Borrowed a pair of Wilwood low fluid senses and found out that only one of the Brake Master cylinders is a Wilwood. the other is a PBR and a different size... So - get another wilwood or find the same type of cap for the PBR... either way need two not one... spent a while looking for an engine number so I can apply for a VIN but I was restricted with a view and I was lazy... but eventually, with the aid of a wire wheel on a drill, I managed to clean enough debris to find this; looks like a laser etched DOT Matrix type number... anyway - now I have applied for a VIN! Now looked at mounting the ECU into the space behind the Driver's seat (RHS). Had a peice of Stainless steel about 1mm full of holes and not even sure what I salvaged it from. Used a Battery box and a bit of foam to make up a cover. Here is the foam, glued to the bottom of the steel, two self tappers attached to the floor bar. Here is the ECU installed for a test fit. I have since, cut a hole in the side for the cable harness to exit a bit nicer. Then I was concerned about fingers getting the attention of the DOTT. So I made a cover, in a hurry, to fill in the dangerous bits... A little bit crude, but a good start... depending on the engineer and DOTT.. a good finish. Needs a bit of moulding to the shape, but it does solve an issue. Back to the Fuel Tank. I welded a bung under the filler inlet for the return line. I tested it in the pool, and found a pin hole in the tank. Welded that up... well, I actually blasted it with the arc welder as I was too lazy to go and by some Argon... AND you guessed it... It leaked. However, I put fuel in it and then I found the leak... Brazing, I here you say. I went and got some Argon and some Brazing rod and here is my attempt to fill the hole. I won't show the BUNG cover up... Testing in the swimming pool today and then refilling with fuel... to really test it. I used detergent and water to clean out the fuel after my last failed test. Left it in the sun for a couple of days. Could not smell any fuel, place some news paper in the fuel level sender hole and set fire to that from a distance. No bang! so then I went about cleaning it up with the grinder and then TIG brazed.... Update coming soon!!! on my success or failure. This is me hoping that I have a fuel tank and not a bomb...
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