Milton Keynes G-TYPE

[stuli]

Hi,
My name is Stuart and I have started a G-Type build in Milton Keynes. I am a few weeks in now with the 2003 1.8L donor stripped and the kit on order. The donor had a few issues (see the speed holes) but for £500 not too bad especially as the roof, seats and door cards have already given half the money back. Current state is the parts removed and disassembled, the old shell gone (ASM-recyling could not be recommenced highly enough!) and starting the rust removal and manual refinishing and paint. The pictures say most of it!

[stuli]

I have decided to wire wheel the rusted parts and then use black gloss POR15 to treat and paint. So far it is going on quite well but is hard work. I also bought a complete set of front and rear wishbones that had already been sand blasted and coated as mine were fairly ruined. Some I even had to cut out as the bolts were so rusted that even an impact driver and huge breaker bar would not move them. 

[stuli]

Lots of info in the forum already but for my input I think the following tools and equipment are very useful (on top of regular tool box tools)
Breaker bar minimum 1/2” with a means of extending (I used a old metal table leg)
Blow torch for those stuck fast bolts
Old baking tray to act as heat guard when using blow torch
Penetrating fluid (not wd40) a proper fluid
Engine hoist (bought mine on eBay new for £99 and can easily sell again for near that which makes it much cheaper Than hiring
Appropriate straps or chain for donor body and then engine
Lifting shackles
Oil and fluids catch pots
Lots of gloves and different sorts (fluid resistant / hard wearing etc)
Safety glasses and proper goggles for grinding
Masks
Impact driver with 12,14,17&19mm sockets
Extension bar for impact driver
Good size vice helps
Cable tie markers (cable ties with space for writing on)
Thin sharpie
Plastic bags
Lots of rags
Something to kneel on
Inspection lamp
Wire brushes
Wire wool
Chemical blacking kit
Paper and pens (write everything that needs replacing)
Camera (cannot take enough pictures)
Bungee cords for hanging bits up
Haynes manual
Access to the internet (so often checking the reward in saving a part vs buying a new or reconditioned one!)
Long cable ties (also useful for using with a rubber glove to cap off pipes and exposed bits that need keeping clean)
Printed picture of an Exocet (inspiration and forever explaining what I’m building)

[chrisbucks1]

Hi I'm just down the road in aylesbury if you want to see a finished car or if you want a hand with anything .

[stuli]

Apr 21, 2019 21:39:26 GMT chrisbucks1 said:

Hi I'm just down the road in aylesbury if you want to see a finished car or if you want a hand with anything .

Thanks Chris I really appreciate that. I am going to Stoneleigh to have a good look around but would certainly like to have a good talk with someone local who’s already been through it.  Will see if you are a available sometime before I start in anger on the the kit which should be some time in May hopefully.

[stuli]

Well the list of parts needed continues to grow.....
Wish bone bolts rear lower
Exhaust gasket
Track rod ends
Drop links
Clutch kit inc. main seal
Clutch alignment tool
Gear lever lower boot
Discs
Pads
Ignition leads
Oil filter
Fuel filter
Brake pipes
Fuel line
Spark plugs
Induction kit
CAS seal
Rocker cover gasket
Front calliper kit
Clutch master cylinder rebuild kit
Non abs brake master cylinder
Gasket paste
Pedal covers

[stuli]

Like most people I struggled with removing the lower wishbone/hub bolts. I could rotate the bolts but there was no way it would ever go through due to the corrosion on the exposed section. My solution was to angle grind both ends off as close to the hub as possible and then I drilled out the middle section of the exposed shank enough that I could then persuade (with a massive hammer) the 'good' ends to go through. It was a real pain but it did work better than trying to get the corroded ends to push through. I don't think there is any good answer to this poor design. To make sure I don't have this problem in the future I chemical blacked the replacement (used) bolts. imgur.com/1BVLZCK

[stuli]

I have seen this in some other threads but a good cheap hack to remove or greatly reduce the effort in removing rust is to use vinegar. I was skeptical but after 72 hours soaking the vinegar dramatically softened the rust to make wire wheeling it much easier. It also removed the loose plating. Well worth a go. I did follow it up with some Hammerite rust remover for good measure as I already had some but it was a great base for chemical blacking.

[stuli]

Another issue I had was removing the bolts for the front brake heat shields. The heads came off easy but the rest of the bolts (all 6 of them) were completely seized. This is were friends with access to proper workshops come in handy!


bbcode image

waiting to see if just a re-tap or Helicoils needed?

[mprmurray]

I had the same issue with these as well as the ABS bolts - leave these well alone if you can they all sheared of on me. Saving grace was Aldi currently have a die and tap sets for less than £20 and they seem adequate enough as enabled me to re-tap the holes. just use plenty of cutting oil.

[scottmev]

Hi I don’t use the forum too much now but I am in kempston with a finished Iva example. If you ever need help/advice.

[stuli]

May 2, 2019 19:27:55 GMT scottmev said:

Hi I don’t use the forum too much now but I am in kempston with a finished Iva example. If you ever need help/advice.

Hi Scott,
Thanks for the offer I certainly would appreciate some help when I inevitably lose the plot

[stuli]

I was not sure if to remove the power steering or not but after a trip to Stoneliegh on the weekend I thought I will commit to de-powering the rack. Bit of a messy task but I did get it done. Luckily I have a friendly supplier of metal fabrication at my work and they welded the shaft to remove the play although it was very small. I need to set the pre-load as it is a bit heavy but hopefully this is easy to do (the nut and lock nut are fairly well seized together). Does anyone have any advice on either the process for setting the pre-load or how to judge what is acceptable? 

[chrisbucks1]

Hi mate I'm just down the road in Aylesbury with a car that's just passed iva .if you need a hand with anything gimme a shout

[stuli]

Picked up my kit last Thursday on my 40th Birthday. Stuart and Julie put the icing on the cake for me  - Great surprise cheers!