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Post by lemans75 on Jan 30, 2019 12:54:28 GMT
Thanks!, will check on the hum to see if it's coming from where you suggested. Luckily I did keep the dimmer and hazard switches and I think all my lights work with the exception of the license plate lights but that's probably just the bulbs.
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Post by snowbird1 on Jan 30, 2019 14:07:20 GMT
The idle speed control (ISC) hums when the ignition is on.
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Post by lemans75 on Jan 31, 2019 13:24:24 GMT
Here's a quick vid of the hum I'm hearing and I'm pretty sure it's coming from this EGR valve at the rear of the plenum:
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Post by tojeiro on Feb 1, 2019 1:22:49 GMT
Mine does the same, on mine it is the idle control valve. Quite loud with engine off. Known issue, 1.8 only and seems to certain years. My MK2.5 never did this.
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Post by lemans75 on Feb 11, 2019 12:53:26 GMT
I have a wee problem. I've been super careful pulling the loom apart and grounding everything, working meticulously to follow and remove any plugs I don't need through the loom to fuses etc and everything has been going beautifully until all of a sudden my right indicator is now blinking at 2x the rate and if I start the car and turn my right indicator on the car stalls.
I've doubled back and reconnected what I took out since my last successful test but still no joy.
I'm thinking a bad ground but I've revisited them a good half dozen times.
Has anyone encountered this gremlin while picking apart the wiring loom?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2019 19:53:34 GMT
The 2x speed on the indicators is by design and is telling you that not enough power is being drawn, usually this would indicate a blown bulb. Start by checking the bulbs, are they all flashing?
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Post by ancsportscars on Feb 11, 2019 20:01:07 GMT
Are all 3 indicators on the r/h side illuminating? (i.e front/rear and side repeater? (if one is out then the reduction in load will cause the others to flash twice as fast.) Is the hazard warning switch connected up and operating correctly?
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Post by lemans75 on Feb 11, 2019 23:15:48 GMT
Hazard warning switch is connected and when activated all four bulbs flash correctly. (I don't have side bulbs) Left turn - they flash correctly Right turn - flash 2x as does the check engine light in the dash.
I removed the dash unit and still have the same problem when headless.
I'm going to take a closer looks at the flasher relay, looks like it has some carbon build up on one side but the fact that when running the car dies when I turn right is a little disconcerting.
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Post by tojeiro on Feb 11, 2019 23:48:09 GMT
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Post by ancsportscars on Feb 12, 2019 8:43:37 GMT
I know you say you have checked all earth connections - but have you checked the main earth to the P.P.F and remembered to re-fit/replace the braided earth between the engine/bellhousing and the Replicar chassis?
Admittedly, though, it does sound like a short somewhere. First simple test would be to see if the problem is a faulty bulb - so does the problem still occur if you remove the R/H indicator bulbs and then operate the indicator stalk?
Did you check that all circuits (inc. starting/running the engine) still worked each time you removed a wire from the loom? (if so, temporarily replace the last one removed and see if that helps.
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Post by lemans75 on Feb 12, 2019 16:53:22 GMT
I've been cheating regarding the earths and bypassed the PPF entirely (for now). I've run a line from the battery negative cable earth to the braided line on the bell housing and then run earths down to that braided line.
I've clearly removed a wire from something I should not have is my guess. The EGR valve next to the "boost" valve is also clicking in sync with the RH indicator.
The car starts and runs fine. My approach was to remove one plug at a time by tracing all the wires for that plug to either a connection on another wire or another connector. None of the wires I have removed "connect" to anything else or bridge so I assumed I was safe. (clearly I was wrong).
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Post by lemans75 on Feb 12, 2019 23:26:43 GMT
FOUND IT!!
It was a bad ground after all but not one of my "chassis" grounds. It was the little black ground here that was corroded inside the plastic housing. (I can cancel the order on a new wiring harness
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Post by lemans75 on Feb 13, 2019 12:46:14 GMT
Here's the link to the full wiring diagram for the NB:
It helped me "find my towel"
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Post by lemans75 on Feb 24, 2019 23:13:10 GMT
After a little R&R it's time to get back at it and all extraneous wiring has been removed and it's time to re-tape the loom.
I am left with 2 unaccounted plugs, the first was for the optional fog lights which I'll keep should I want to add them. The second is a "spare" 2nd rear O2 sensor. This is a California emissions add-on for a second catalytic converter so I'm going to tape that up to the main loom in case the car end up in CA before the engine gets swapped for something more exotic (plan is to replace the tired 4-pot with a build AAN inline 5 with VEMS after it hits the road.)
I'll eventually post an annotated copy of the wiring diagram with things I deleted highlighted for others to consider.
Once re-taped/shrouded I'll post some photos and it looks like a couple of wires will need to be extended (eg: main headlights)
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Post by lemans75 on Mar 4, 2019 19:12:51 GMT
I found myself looking at all the different builds in the forum to get an idea of where various plugs, relays and sensors should live. I think my LHD donor's wiring harness probably forced some unusual choices but here's a full frontal before i tape everything back up:
Couple of things I wanted to point out: - I used the top radiator mounting bolts to tie in my earths (on either side) - Top left is what's left of a bracket that holds the "boost" valve. - The fuse box will sit next to the clutch reservoir - The central foot-well panel will have two holes in it for the two harnesses - The ECU will sit centrally under the dash - The coolant bottle needs to sit inboard (I originally had it in the far right corner but realised I would not be able to fill easily if needed)
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