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Post by R2S on Mar 5, 2019 18:25:54 GMT
Dont know if it will work but I'm currently looking at placing the coolant bottle, non standard slender cylinder, immediately behind the rad to the left side when viewed from front and fastening to the rad using two existing moulded in mounting points (no idea what they were originally for).
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Post by lemans75 on Mar 5, 2019 20:57:05 GMT
I'll have to take a look at those mounting points you mention because I really dislike the ugly plastic bottle and I'm not happy with snaking the hose all the way over to the right, especially since the rad's overflow connection point faces left.
I still have my AC fan and was going to hook it up to the regular fan's wiring as a twin setup. Do you have any experience with that or have any reason to think that's a bad idea?
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Post by R2S on Mar 6, 2019 21:02:09 GMT
Might be a question for snowbird1 as his build, and use of car, was in Arizona, single fan is more than adequate for the weather here in Derbyshire.
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Post by lemans75 on Mar 7, 2019 13:48:17 GMT
Having done a bit more digging it looks like this is really only necessary for racing/turbocharged setups that need oil cooling etc. One less thing to do and a little less weight is a win/win
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Post by lemans75 on Mar 8, 2019 23:59:11 GMT
Quick update... Finished pulling obvious wires and the box is heavy, might be close to 5lbs.
The passenger and central bulkheads are also in:
It's close to being time to drop the body onto the frame for the first time to get a sense of the dash placement... pics to follow.
I removed the AC fan that I was considering setting up as a dual setup but it's really not needed unless you've got a turbo setup or tracking the car and needing extra cooling.
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Post by lemans75 on Mar 9, 2019 23:15:01 GMT
Spring is around the corner and my two wheelers will need their space back so it's time to convert the crate's base into a makeshift pit. To kick things off I cut the tarp floor to exposed the base boards and pulled one board from either side to get access to the cross beams and cut them off.
Having removed the center boards I cut the center beam in half to support either side. Now that I have my pit, I used the left over center portion as ramps.
Now I can get under the car to finish the last few bits and drop the body down onto the frame to mate things up.
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Post by ancsportscars on Mar 10, 2019 7:37:59 GMT
Very innovative, James. I guess that's what they mean by 'thinking outside the box'!! 😁
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Post by R2S on Mar 10, 2019 10:20:13 GMT
Just noticed the lower rad brackets Page 17 Derbyshire Replicar
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Post by lemans75 on Mar 10, 2019 17:20:38 GMT
Radiator brackets were made up from some scrap alu I had lying around from another project which explains the random holes.
It also presented a nice spot to bolt on the horn.
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Post by lemans75 on Mar 10, 2019 17:30:28 GMT
Getting the car up the ramp and onto the platform was hindered by the bolts in the footwell that bolt onto the rear of the front subframe. I originally had those bolts with the nut on the underside but that meant they protruded quite far and in this case they just snagged the lip pf the platform.
The solution was simply to pull them out and invert the bolt:
Once the new wheels get bolted on I won't have that clearance issue but it's probably a good idea not to have them protruding so much anyway.
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Post by ancsportscars on Mar 10, 2019 17:54:18 GMT
Ref mounting the horns: The two short tubes on the front of the chassis were designed to be dual purpose. To both mount the P/S cooling pipe (if P/S is retained) and to affix the horns. Simply Fit an 8mm rivnut in the open end of each tube to enable them to be bolted in place. You may have to extend the wiring to reach, however.
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Post by snowbird1 on Mar 11, 2019 14:03:10 GMT
Might be a question for snowbird1 as his build, and use of car, was in Arizona, single fan is more than adequate for the weather here in Derbyshire. I just ran a single fan, no problem cooling up to 40C once I sorted the other cooling problems (no coolant flow through the 8 mm line from the rear of the engine to the t-stat housing and wrong t-stat fitted). Remember fans actually restrict airflow through the radiator over about 40 MPH, if the fans are controlled by the ECU they will usually switch off at speed and be allowed to 'windmill'. I sourced a higher capacity auto trans radiator but didn't use it - $50 plus shipping if anyone wants it!
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Post by lemans75 on Mar 23, 2019 22:17:35 GMT
Last inch of snow (I hope) fell overnight so a good excuse to finish off a couple of tasks. First on the list is the charcoal canister.
The two main bits are the big canister and the vapour thingy. I found a home for both one on top of the other on the driver side. The charcoal canister is bolted down to the frame using the existing mounting bracket. At first i thought this would be a bit weak but the rear end of the canister is firmly wedged against the frame so I simply trimmed the other mounting ear. The vapour thingy is bolted to the top frame right above the canister and having shortened all the hoses it all fits rather nicely.
Next on my list is to mount the fuel filter. I used a stainless plasterboard bracket and added some edging to hold the filter snugly and then simply bolted it to a couple of rivnuts.
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Post by lemans75 on Mar 28, 2019 1:57:05 GMT
Coolant overflow can arrived and now mounted on another couple of sections of stainless bracketry nice and close to the radiator instead of half way round the other side of the engine bay.
here's how it's mounted...
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Post by R2S on Mar 28, 2019 16:59:13 GMT
I wanted a bottle that I could see through and after trawling through various interweb searches found that the old 60s triumphs had a plastic bottle which you can still buy here in uk for just over £10 so that my plan using the threaded square bolts that are in the rear of the rad to locate.
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