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Post by bossman on Sept 3, 2018 15:55:30 GMT
Hi All.
Wondered if anybody could help on a problem i have, iv'e had a intermittent problem mainly after a run when the car is hot
the immobilizer flashes and presumably stops the spark as i have cranking and the fuel pump running.
It then got worse and was flashing all the time, i cleaned the earth pins on the ecu plug and it fired up straight away and i thought i;d cured the problem but it came back.
I then replaced the ecu/ transponder ring and key fob with a set from Ebay and it was ok for a short while but it's come back again.
Iv'e cleaned all the main earths and are wondering where to look next.
When the it flashes and fails to start if i leave it for about 20 mins to cool down it starts ok so i'm guessing it's something heat related.
Any help would be gratefully appreciated.
thanks John.
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Post by snowbird1 on Sept 5, 2018 6:43:59 GMT
A difficult one, the only thing that I can think of is a ECU fault. Have you checked the ECU power circuits? You say you replaced the key fob - I thought the key had to be paired with the ECU. Don't know exactly what the immobiliser protocol is, does the ECU need to 'see' other inputs than just the key.
BTW it's useful if you include donor details on your signature line.
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Post by carlyd on Sept 5, 2018 8:34:36 GMT
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Post by bossman on Sept 5, 2018 15:07:56 GMT
Hi Snowbird1 and Carl.
Many thanks for your reply's.
Snowbird1- I'm running a 1.8 zetec with standard ford ecu, yes the key does have to be paired with ecu along with the pats ring around the lock
but i bought them as a set of ebay.
Carl.
Yes i thought i had cured the starting issue with a new crankshaft sensor as i found a piece of wire brush on the end of the magnet of the old sensor but the problem came back and i;m now thinking it was the immobilizer all along and i didn't realize.
I spoke to a couple of guys this morning who both were convinced it was the ecu that was getting hot as mine is on the rear bulkhead (engine side) but iv'e just been out and stopped after 10 mins so the car was by no means warm and immobilizer was flashing i checked the face of the ecu with a infrared thermometer and it only showed 24c so that possibly rules out overheating.
It started after a few minutes so i came straight back home shut it off in my drive and not been able to start it since that's a hour ago.
Any ideas?
thanks John.
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Post by carlyd on Sept 5, 2018 15:44:43 GMT
Have you plugged it into a diagnostic machine? if so were there any fault codes?
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Post by bossman on Sept 5, 2018 17:00:20 GMT
Hi Carl.
my car was a factory build and they didn't fit a OBD socket, i was led to believe that you can't access the immobilizer part of the ECU through the OBD anyway?.
thanks John.
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Post by carlyd on Sept 6, 2018 10:23:06 GMT
Hi John, I don't really have any experience with the Ford engine and wiring so I can't be of much help I'm affraid.
That said I would look to wire in an OBD socket as this could tell you the fault in an instant. Failing that it's just going to be trial and error replacing sensors etc which could cost a fortune.
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Post by Stiggy on Sept 7, 2018 22:56:49 GMT
The location of the ecu can cause interference if placed next to the engine, on the Focus they are on the opposite side of a steel bulkhead to the engine.
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Post by bossman on Sept 27, 2018 8:36:44 GMT
Hi.
Thanks for everbody's help with this i still can't track down the problem so have decided to strip it all out over winter and treat myself too a new engine upgrade and get a omex hot run engine with there dedicated wiring loom.
John.
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Post by drbrian on Oct 2, 2018 14:33:34 GMT
hey you need to wire in a OBD2 wiring it will not be too hard if you have the service manual. The OBD2 reader will tell you the ecu temp and fault codes. very important to in tracking down the problem. There are five wires coming off the computer that you need to hook up to the OBD2. buy the cable connect online
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