A few questions

[jleigh5]

Hi,
I've been stripping down my donor for a couple of months now and will hopefully be picking the kit up in a few weeks, but just wanted to ask a few questions about the build:

1. I can't work out from photos whether we will need to remove the brake dust shields or not when mounting the arch mounts.  I've seen a few that have, and others that haven't.  Is this necessary, or even suggested?  I would prefer if I didn't have to as they seem rusted on fairly well...

2. What wheels/tyres will fit in the Wide G-type arches?  On the website it states "wides are up to 235's" but was wondering if thinner wheels would look weird/even work at all?  I will be changing from the standard wheel at some point, but was just wondering how long I could get away with them on.  Does the offset have to be 0? I'd prefer if they were 15" wheels as don't want to affect the MX5's handling!

3. What's the best technique for drilling a pre-powdercoated chassis?

4. Can the VIN plate be welded anywhere?  Does there need to be more than one VIN number on the Chassis?  How would I go about getting it stamped on the chassis?

5. My donor car is a mk2 but have ordered the MEV radiator mounts (which fit mk1 rads only).  Is the only thing different about the two radiators the mounting brackets?  Can I re-use the old hoses (or get aftermarket ones)?  Are the inlets/outlets the same on both the Rads and the Engines?

These are the initial thoughts I've been having, but I'm sure they'll be more questions to come!

Thanks in advance,
Jamie

[Stiggy]

OK lets get started, in answer to your points using your numbers.
1. Ditch the dust shields off the front.
2. 215 to 235 look fine on G-type, try a tyre size calculator online.
3. Centre punch and drill, easy, it doesn't tend to chip, no welding required, just rivnuts on some minor items.
4. VIN is welded to chassis, you just need to add a sticker (known as a manufacturers plate) with the VIN and MEV LTD under the bonnet.
5. Cheaper and easier to get a new rad for MK1 assuming your fan can be re used.

[jleigh5]

Brilliant, thank you!

[jleigh5]

My donor came with a dished 'Momo' (not sure if it's actually momo or a knockoff) steering wheel and non-collapsible boss.
1. Do I need a collapsible boss for IVA? Will the UJ on the steering column offer sufficient collapsibility?
2. Do I need padding for a dished steering wheel? The IVA manual refers to not needing it for a recessed wheel, however there's also a section on 'Aftermarket Wheels' (see below).
3. The wheel does have 3 metal spokes, will these need covering?

4. Will a Quick release wheel pass IVA?

Here's a similar wheel:

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-MX5-OMP-RACING-SEERING-WHEEL-IN-GOOD-ORDER/223006156795?hash=item33ec33e7fb:g:RkwAAOSwkLJbBDsz

From IVA:

'It is vital that the wheel is constructed so as to minimise the risk of facial injuries or concussion. The rim of the wheel should be padded or at least made from a material which when deformed does not splinter or fragment. The centre boss should be padded or recessed below the level of the rim. Wheels with a very deep dish are stiffer than flatter wheels and, as such will absorb less energy'

'Note:
It is possible to fit an 'aftermarket' steering wheel which has been approved for use on any design of column. These will be referred to as “Separate Technical Units”. If the presenter can provide satisfactory documentary evidence that this is the case, a “Separate Technical Unit” may be acceptable'

[mikeeyboy]

One of my fail points was not having a collapsible column to the steering wheel. At retest I fitted the original MX5 with the airbag removed, prior to this the examiner told me that with the airbag removed I would have to pad the inside of the airbag cover on the steering wheel.

It is difficult because I think sometimes it is down to the examiner.

[Stiggy]

we must remember that the IVA test is for our safety. If you have a bump without a collapsible boss you use your head to find out how hard a wheel is without one. Without one you will fail the test unless you pad the steering wheel with shore 50 rubber that will look silly and if not secure will fail in any case.

[jleigh5]

Thanks for the answers so far.
One more question at the moment:
Do the Mk2 runners fit the GRP seats/new chassis?

[jleigh5]

When plugging the loom back in, what should be done for plugs that don't need to be used? eg interior light/windscreen wipers
Do I just leave them hanging? Or do they need a resistor joining the wires together?

[hammy3601]

Jun 15, 2018 12:50:41 GMT jleigh5 said:

Thanks for the answers so far.
One more question at the moment:
Do the Mk2 runners fit the GRP seats/new chassis?

Yes, you flatten the ends and cut off the spikes

[hammy3601]

Aug 13, 2018 14:18:30 GMT jleigh5 said:

When plugging the loom back in, what should be done for plugs that don't need to be used? eg interior light/windscreen wipers
Do I just leave them hanging? Or do they need a resistor joining the wires together?

Only for the dash board illumination, or just connect the switch back to the loom

[jayz101]

4. VIN is welded to chassis, you just need to add a sticker (known as a manufacturers plate) with the VIN and MEV LTD under the bonnet.


Hi,

I am trying to get a plate made up for my under the bonnet car details. You mention a sticker with the details on. Do you need axle weight details? and can you use a sticker or does it have to be made form something like metal as to show that the item cannot be just peeled off? I say this as I have a solvent outdoor printer at home and though I could print this and laminate it real easy and it would save some more time making up an ally plate.

[hammy3601]

It’s all in this forum if you use the search function and all in the IVA manual mate

[jason82]

There are companies on eBay that sell blank chassis plates, just type that into eBay search. Basically you take the plate to your local cobblers / key cutting company & they will stamp the details in for you. That's what I had done with my Haynes Roadster. I think they cost around £4. I will try & find a link.

[jason82]

Alternatively, make your own. I think that the letter punches need to be 4.8mm high, and be clearly marked. They are around £30 on eBay, it's a bit like the ones the police used to use to stamp your postcode into your bike frame. This can get riveted on under the bonnet somewhere handy. No axle weights were required. Just enter manufacturer, then the chassis number.

[jason82]

I can see them, just can't link them on my phone sorry mate.