Morgans Exocet build thread

[themorgster]

I’m using the original ECU, loom and clocks.

[themorgster]

I think I might get away with blanking off the EGR and just plugging the broken switch in. It may fool the ECU into thinking it’s all in place...

[bewgy]

I removed my EGR, no error or warning on the dash, seems fine.

[themorgster]

The engine is finally back together and all painted. I sprayed the exhaust manifold with uht paint, then wrapped it with black titanium exhaust wrap (the downpipe is going to get the same treatment). Wrapping wasn’t too difficult as I clamped it to my bench, although the stock manifold has loads of brackets and such to go round. I’m aware the manifold will run hot (really hot), but if it kills it, it will be a good excuse to buy a full stainless manifold-downpipe jobbie.

I also bought a silicone hose kit. You can see from the last two pictures that I’m trying to work out how to loop the heater in/out. I’ve decided to cut and join the hoses with one of these: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223104838059

I’ve also got a small filter on order for the cam cover breather: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F180675286894

I blanked off the EGR, and will need an M18x1.5 cap for the exhaust manifold. I couldn’t find one anywhere, so I’m going to make my own by welding up the end of a truck wheelnut: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F271022185370

The original heatshield was rotten, so, even though I technically don’t need one, I thought I’d make my own from aluminium. Got as far as making a card / paper mock up.

Next major job is to refit the clutch, attach the gearbox, and work out the best way of getting it in the car!

[themorgster]

Started on the wing stays yesterday. Only got one done as most of the bolts holding the disc guard on had sheared, so had to drill and re-tap. The top hole was a mess and I ended up tapping to to M10 (other two are M8). This caused a problem as there is just enough clearance between the bolt head and the hub.... I’m talking 1.5mm (see pictures). I used some blue thread lock, so hopefully it won’t work loose and foul on the hub!

[themorgster]

Fitted a rear wing stay - much easier than the front! I just removed the wheel, caliper, disc, hub nut and the top control arm to hub assembly bolt. I could then flip the hub assembly forward as I persuaded the drive shaft spline out. Once horizontal I offered up the stay and bolted one end to the caliper mount and marked out where I wanted the hole to be for the other bolt. Drilled it to 6.7mm then tapped to M8. Quickly realised I needed a longer caliper mounting bolt so put two M10x1.25 35mm bolts on order.

[themorgster]

I had to roll the chassis out to turn it round to get to the other side to do the remaining two wing stays. As it was out, I thought I’d take a few pictures...

Quick question for anybody with a bit of advice: As you can see, it’s missing an engine gearbox & PPF, which needs to go in. Bearing in mind I’m doing this pretty much alone, what’s the best way of doing this? I have a chain hoist set up above the car in the garage, which I used to remove the Mazda shell and lower the MEV frame onto the front & rear sub frames. I was thinking of taking the frame back off, then building the skate back up and lowering the frame back over. Is that a lot of faff or am I better off trying to lower the engine & gearbox in as it sits?

[ian85]

If I was you, I would remove the MeV frame and build up the skate. If you haven't already done so, would also look at running fuel and brake lines before putting it back together.

[bewgy]

Not having a second pair of hands readily available I had the same problem, also had a block and tackle set up in the garage for all the heavy lifting. I assembled the complete roller skate engine gearbox and ppf, rolled it out of the garage and lifted the frame on the chain hoist. I used adjustable straps to make sure it was level. Rolled the skate under the frame dropped it down and bolted the whole thing together. You need to make sure that you have enough height to clear the top of the engine, I had a couple of centimetres clearance.

[themorgster]

Thanks for your advice. I agree, disassembly appears to be the best option.

I was thinking about attaching the wheel covers (wide G-type) to the stays and don’t like the idea of bonding them permanently for a couple of reasons: 1) I may want to put wider wheels on at some point (currently MX5 stock 195 tyres) requiring adjustment & 2) I like the idea of getting the bodywork wrapped at some point in the future, which is easier if the wings are removable.

I was thinking to slide 13mm ID stainless pipe over the stays and bond those to the inside of the wings with PU adhesive. I would also tap the pipe wall and put grub screws in to lock them in place.

Has anybody done this, or think of a reason why it wouldn’t work so well?

[p2tav]

Oct 4, 2018 12:03:29 GMT themorgster said:

Thanks for your advice. I agree, disassembly appears to be the best option.

I was thinking about attaching the wheel covers (wide G-type) to the stays and don’t like the idea of bonding them permanently for a couple of reasons: 1) I may want to put wider wheels on at some point (currently MX5 stock 195 tyres) requiring adjustment & 2) I like the idea of getting the bodywork wrapped at some point in the future, which is easier if the wings are removable.

I was thinking to slide 13mm ID stainless pipe over the stays and bond those to the inside of the wings with PU adhesive. I would also tap the pipe wall and put grub screws in to lock them in place.

Has anybody done this, or think of a reason why it wouldn’t work so well?

hi i'm using 17" x 205 and as found the wheel stays are too close to the tyre so I cut them and extended the bars. I also noticed they do not extend right across the tyre so I made them longer to give more stability. I have allowed 25mm above the tyre incase of stone pick up. I have looked at using pipe to allow me to remove the wings but not sure which is the best option???. i'm now back to the thought of gluing them as I ordered the extra wide wings and have already made them higher and longer so should not make any difference to what size I now use, don't know which way to go with them this has bugged me for months lol. let me know what you decide,

cheers paul 

[themorgster]

I’ll let you know how it goes. I’m only going to be running 15” wheels, mainly to keep the weight of wheels and cost of tyres down (I plan on getting through quite a few tyres!). This being the case, height for me isn’t a problem, I’m just thinking about maybe getting wider 15” wheels in the future.

Spent some time thinking about the best way to run the fuel and brake hard lines and decided to make some little stand-off brackets (out of floor off cuts) attached to the frame using M6 rivnuts / bolts. Seatbelt anchor bolt was in the way a bit, but some careful bending sorted that problem.

[themorgster]

The time has come to put the engine in... replaced the rear crank seal and refitted the clutch first. Then bolted the gearbox on and dropped it into the front subframe. The rear crank seal didn’t come out easy, I had to drill the seal, then screwed in long screws until they pushed the seal out.

[themorgster]

Skate back together... hard work when you are on your own... I was at it until gone midnight!

[themorgster]

Now it’s (largely) bolted together, time to get some traction on the build before the temperature drops! 3 year olds love massive meccano and girls like fast cars... who knew!