Morgans Exocet build thread

[bewgy]

Looking good, you have made fast progress in a short period.

Makes me feel lazy!

[themorgster]

Decided on the “turret method” of filling up the gearbox. After draining the remains of the old oil out, I pulled the fill plug then slowly poured ~2L of liquid gold into the shift turret until it started to spill out of the fill hole. This method will only work on 6 speed boxes, if you try this on your 5 speed, you will pour your £16/litre oil down the drain... literally.

[themorgster]

Because I moved the stand-offs for the pedals to the master cylinder side of the firewall, and changed the master cylinder/ proportioning valve to a non-abs... the front left brake pipe (that runs over the top) was touching the frame. Making new pipes from copper wasn’t a major problem, just had to make some (double) flares and do some bending for the first time. For those that have not made flares before, here is how to do it.



1. Cut pipe to length with a rotary pipe cutter and de-burr the ends (I use a tiny file, but you can get various de-burring tools).
2. Put the unions on the pipe (the right way round) VERY IMPORTANT!!
3. Place the pipe in the flaring tool and hand tighten the 10mm bolts.

4. Screw in the flat locating bolt. This is to push the pipe back into exactly the right position.

5. Tighten the 10mm clamp bolts with a spanner.
6. Remove the locating bolt and screw in the 1st stage end of the flare bolt (see image). Also, put a tiny bit of punch grease (do not eat???) on the business end(s).

7. Remove the flare bolt, turn it 180deg and screw it back in.
8. Remove the flare bolt, loosen the 10mm clamp bolts and remove the pipe... et voila - double flare!
9. Remove any residual punch grease, remember... don’t eat it!

The finished article:

[garman]

Thanks for the info! This is perfect timing for me. I'm routing brake lines this weekend. That in-line tool looks much easier to use than the Harbor Freight types I see everywhere.

[themorgster]

In case it helps this is how plumbed in the rear brake lines. I used a t-piece and plugged up the side hole of the distribution block (that is attached to the rear right hose).

[themorgster]

mevowners.proboards.com/post/105704

[hammy3601]

I have a short braided flexi from clutch master to slave. The oem was another over engineered bit of kit that reminded of those games where you had to pass a hoop over the line without it going bzzzzzzzzz :-)

[themorgster]

Thought as much! I’m just trying to get it built from this point forward with minimal outlay... I figure I’ve got the next couple of years to add shiny hoses, suspension and turbos etc.

[bewgy]

I used this:

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202028071458 

They are not expensive, I too am all about recycling. 

[themorgster]

After some thought, I’ve decided to mount the air filter all the way at the back of the engine bay using a 15deg elbow. I’m hoping to 1. Avoid heat from the exhaust and 2. Maximise cold airflow.

[themorgster]

Hi, I need a bit of advice... basically, is my handbrake cable broken? (See pictures) It feels like the ends should be attached and I shouldn’t see the white inner, but they are the same both sides and the break (if it is broken) is very clean.

[ancsportscars]

I'm afraid so, yes.
You can see in my pic that from the rough edges it has clearly corroded through.  
2nd pic shows what it should look like (I replaced both on my Replicar demonstrator btw!)

[themorgster]

Thanks for the confirmation, I was 90% sure that was the case!

[themorgster]

I bought some Mk2 replacement cables, but the courier delivered them to my bin, which was efficiently collected by the bin men!

Question: I have a Mk2 (NB), but it seems that I’ll need to route the cable through a hole I need to cut in the tunnel. Can I buy mk1 (NA) cables and avoid the hole cutting, or should I stick with Mk2 cables?

[hammy3601]

I didnt know there was a difference, I have mk2 cable and havent needed to cut a hole in the tunnel