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Post by bewgy on Apr 4, 2018 15:42:38 GMT
More picture of the work completed on the brake and fuel lines     Decided to treat myself to this and replace the clutch master to cylinder line auto.helperformance.com/mazda-mx-5-all-models-1990-2005-2772Read online that the coil was to stop the clutch line wearing because of fatigue caused by the movement of the engine, although this was a matter of some debate |
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Post by bewgy on Apr 20, 2018 10:34:52 GMT
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Post by bewgy on Apr 22, 2018 15:02:54 GMT
I am in the process of making and fitting the bracket for the front brakes. I am using the original hose and reading the IVA manual to ensure that I meet their guidelines. I have followed the rule, which I found on this forum, of maximum 300mm between clips/support. However I cannot find any reference to this in the manual. Is this an urban myth or am I reading the guide wrong?
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Post by martinw on Apr 22, 2018 16:30:05 GMT
You're quite right - there is no specific mention of 300mm as a maximum spacing in the manual.
The actual wording is:
"A brake pipe or hose must be adequately clipped or otherwise
supported."
Now, when I built my Sonic, the guidance I used was the MEV build guide. That suggested spacing p-clips no more than 150mm apart.
300mm sounds like quite a long distance for a pipe to be unsupported. For the cost of an extra 10 clips or so, I'd go for something a lot less than that. Basically, the idea is that you don't end up with fatigue fractures in pipes which are able to vibrate. More support = less vibration.
Martin
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Post by bewgy on Apr 26, 2018 8:24:16 GMT
I finally figured out how to upload pictures from my phone using a chromebook. The reason I do not have a laptop is because of a new job which I start in a couple of weeks, so I am benefiting from some gardening leave and plenty on time to work on the kit car, ignoring the wifes demands for DIY.... The exocet frame and chassis are together, the mounting tabs at the rear of the frame went through the hole in the rear subframe resulting in the frame resting on the bar, which did not look right to me. So I used a couple of the seat belt spacers as washers, has anyone else experienced similar issues?   The steering wheel is mounted, I think I got lucky, the only modification necessary was removing the spacers from the pedal assembly and mounting them on the brake master cylinder.  Very happy with the coilovers, only comment, to get the 120mm clearance from the chassis to road, recommended by Stuart for road use, I have to wind them upto the very top. Also I can only lower them so far before they foul the banana plate. If you want to go lower you would have to modify the banana plate.   Petrol tank fitted in the lowered position for a MK2, I used the original mounting holes on the tank. Although this meant that the holes in the frame mounting tab were not centered and in some cases close to the edge   I working on the front brake brackets and will post some pictures, maybe it it was my search skills but I could not find many pictures on the forum. And finally where does this bit go?  |
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Post by Stiggy on Apr 26, 2018 9:02:19 GMT
have you tried flipping the banana? Springs supplied with aftermarket MX5 coil overs are often intended to lower the car but this slammed down look is not for a car to handle at all well. Although real low can have advantages, like polishing wheels without moving your hand.  |
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Post by bewgy on Apr 26, 2018 16:53:57 GMT
Thanks for that Stuart, I didn't think about flipping the banana. I will do that just to give more clearance. I do not want to lower the car any more though.
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Post by martinw on Apr 26, 2018 17:44:36 GMT
I didn't think about flipping the banana. I think you need to wait for Friday to make comments like that......  Martin |
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Post by bewgy on Apr 30, 2018 20:07:02 GMT
Flipping the banana didn't work, ahem  . I do not want to lower the car and am satisfied with the current clearance, if I decide to lower it at a later date some small modification to the banana would be needed. The brakes lines are all installed, I saw that a lot of builders attached a braket to the exocet frame, welding on brakets. I don't have the option of welding and have bolted parts where ever possible for ease of maintenance/modification/replacement. The bracket are made from 5mm timber joining plates. Although not pretty the holes help with the bending, alignment and fixing to the sub frame. The brackets need to be long to avoid the flexible brake line fouling.     If anyone sees any potential problems, shout out. All of the hard lines are now run, however the original fuel lines are not long enough to reach my hard lines. I am in the process of removing the fuel rail, cleaning injectors and running new flexible fuel lines. Plus a few other little jobs. |
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Post by bewgy on May 14, 2018 21:35:18 GMT
The plumbing is all completed, word to the wise I bought the wrong fuel hose and had to remove the fuel rail again. Finished the fuel tank and fitted the filter. I will need to remove it then fit make and fit a drip pan.
I am now starting to think about the problem of the exhaust, there is no way that the Mk2 exhaust will fit onto the Exocet frame. Nitram has a great thread, he replaced the mid box using flexible exhaust tubing and used the original back box. I don't have a welder and this sounds like a good idea. But I am thinking if I replace the mid box, I may as well replace the back box, it does not look to good sticking out the end of the Exocet. Although this maybe the safer option for the iva and get then something better looking later on?
I am kind of stuck on this at the moment because I want to fit the exhaust before moving onto the wiring. What have others with a Mk2 done about the exhaust? Any thoughts would be welcome.....
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Post by calibuild on May 15, 2018 5:00:37 GMT
Exhaust, I ended up going with a Magnaflow 2.5 inch inlet, 2.5 inch dual outlet, as the stock one looks poor and sticks out. Magnaflow + stock Resonator is a more aggressive sound but not absurd / overly loud. Mid-pipe etc remains stock. Had a professional bend the pipe, and make the welds.
Question on your step up, are you running line from the catch canister up front, all the way to back as well? I keep getting a P0455 (large evap leak), can't figure out why.
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Post by bewgy on May 15, 2018 18:42:46 GMT
I removed all of the charcoal canister gubbins, I am just going to leave the check valve as it is, maybe put a small cone filter on it.
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Post by bewgy on Jun 7, 2018 20:43:38 GMT
Progress has slowed but I am moving forward, I seemed as though I did not need to plan the order of work because there was so many jobs to complete. I finished off the plumbing, connected everything, refilled the brake fluid and bled the brakes, new oil in the engine, gearbox and differential. Then I had to consider tackling the exhaust or the wiring. I went for the wiring on the basis that getting her running was the most important step. So I went through the task of connecting up the wiring on a temporary basis and ended up with this mess:  Connected the battery, filled the rad with water, put petrol in the tank and miracle of miracles tonight she fired up! WOW! My elation was dampened by the fact the smoke started to billow out from underneath the exhaust heat shield. Also the heater bypass line got very hot but the bottom pipe to the radiator never felt hot at all. The engine ran for maybe a minute or longer with couple of revs, it took a time for the smoke to appear from underneath the heat shield. So bearing in mind I am by no means a mechanic I have a couple of questions: 1. Any idea what could be the cause of the smoke, maybe oil on the manifold burning off? I cleaned the manifold quite well. I may have over filled the engine slightly with oil could this cause smoke. I have the exhaust manifold and the cat fitted and tightened but no other exhaust parts. 2. It felt like there was air in the bottom pipe of the radiator and I was concerned that the water was not flowing correctly, the picture below shows my heater bypass pipe I may have got some plumbing wrong. The heater bypass pipe got very hot but none of the other radiator pipes did. Could there be an air block in the radiator pipes? 3. How do I check the water pump is working?  This is the heater bypass hose. I am focusing on the positive and will start to tidy up the wiring now. Any help with the above worries would be greatly appreciated. |
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Post by hammy3601 on Jun 8, 2018 19:29:32 GMT
Wow ! Sounds like you did really well with the wiring!!!! Nice one!
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Post by snowbird1 on Jun 9, 2018 6:26:17 GMT
1. Any idea what could be the cause of the smoke, maybe oil on the manifold burning off? I cleaned the manifold quite well. I may have over filled the engine slightly with oil could this cause smoke. I have the exhaust manifold and the cat fitted and tightened but no other exhaust parts. 2. It felt like there was air in the bottom pipe of the radiator and I was concerned that the water was not flowing correctly, the picture below shows my heater bypass pipe I may have got some plumbing wrong. The heater bypass pipe got very hot but none of the other radiator pipes did. Could there be an air block in the radiator pipes? 3. How do I check the water pump is working? 1. The smoke is probably just oil burning off. 2. The heater circuit flows coolant all the time so should get hot first, there shold also be coolant flow through the 8 mm ID hose that runs from the rear of the cylinder head, through the oil heat exchanger, idle speed control and thermostat housing. The thermostat needs this flow to sense coolant temperature, when the thermostat opens the top hose should get hot. 3. If the belt is on it's unlikely that water pump isn't working. |
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