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Post by p2tav on Apr 19, 2019 7:30:49 GMT
quick question, when I connect near side headlights they work fine dipped and main beam but when I connect off side both dipped and main beam come on ? any ideas please ive tested the wires and im getting the correct voltage and on the right connections ? anyone else had same issue update, if I use test lamps on car all work fine if I put the twin dominator headlights on they don't work? if I test the dominator headlights of the car they work fine ? this is puzzling me any ideas
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Post by p2tav on Apr 19, 2019 15:30:48 GMT
quick question, when I connect near side headlights they work fine dipped and main beam but when I connect off side both dipped and main beam come on ? any ideas please ive tested the wires and im getting the correct voltage and on the right connections ? anyone else had same issue update, if I use test lamps on car all work fine if I put the twin dominator headlights on they don't work? if I test the dominator headlights of the car they work fine ? this is puzzling me any ideas Update, not a good one as I go through testing the wiring it has become apparent that the mk2 and mk2.5 uses permanent live and switched neg, so as the dominator projector lights use h1 bulbs which means the bulb earths on the casing when you connect them and turn ignition on they have 12v to them so when you add a neg either by turning lights on or fixing to body (remembering the case is live with ignition) you either get both lights on or blown fuse. any ideas as all the car is done so rewiring is a no no please someone tell me i'm wrong and its an easy fix please please
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Post by jason82 on Apr 19, 2019 16:14:56 GMT
Just an idea, get a universal light stalk, where you are switching lives rather than neutrals. It's a very bizarre way of doing it if you ask me. I have never known neutrals getting switched. I am not sure how the mk1 switches, I will have a look in a bit. You could wire the system independently of the ECU etc, & reconfigure the light wiring, so run a ground & two new switch wires from the relay, so you are reversing the wiring so to speak.if the body of the lights are still giving you an issue, I know that it's more expense, but could you make up some nylon blocks which mount between the light & the body ? So 1 bolt in the nylon block goes to the body, then the bolt for the light to nylon block have a separate bolt. This way the light becomes isolated from the body, eliminating the issue of a dead short so to speak. I am going to take my dominator apart now to see if I can think of something else.
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Post by p2tav on Apr 19, 2019 17:49:17 GMT
Just an idea, get a universal light stalk, where you are switching lives rather than neutrals. It's a very bizarre way of doing it if you ask me. I have never known neutrals getting switched. I am not sure how the mk1 switches, I will have a look in a bit. You could wire the system independently of the ECU etc, & reconfigure the light wiring, so run a ground & two new switch wires from the relay, so you are reversing the wiring so to speak.if the body of the lights are still giving you an issue, I know that it's more expense, but could you make up some nylon blocks which mount between the light & the body ? So 1 bolt in the nylon block goes to the body, then the bolt for the light to nylon block have a separate bolt. This way the light becomes isolated from the body, eliminating the issue of a dead short so to speak. I am going to take my dominator apart now to see if I can think of something else.
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Post by p2tav on Apr 19, 2019 17:50:06 GMT
Just an idea, get a universal light stalk, where you are switching lives rather than neutrals. It's a very bizarre way of doing it if you ask me. I have never known neutrals getting switched. I am not sure how the mk1 switches, I will have a look in a bit. You could wire the system independently of the ECU etc, & reconfigure the light wiring, so run a ground & two new switch wires from the relay, so you are reversing the wiring so to speak.if the body of the lights are still giving you an issue, I know that it's more expense, but could you make up some nylon blocks which mount between the light & the body ? So 1 bolt in the nylon block goes to the body, then the bolt for the light to nylon block have a separate bolt. This way the light becomes isolated from the body, eliminating the issue of a dead short so to speak. I am going to take my dominator apart now to see if I can think of something else.
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Post by p2tav on Apr 19, 2019 17:54:38 GMT
Hi Jason I can isolate the lights from the body but it wont help with both lights dip and main coming on at the same time when dip is selected. As for rewiring I could start again but the car is done so not an option for me buddy. It's looking like new lights to cure issue as mx5 does not use H1 bulbs for this reason I'm gutted to say the least. Cheers buddy
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Post by p2tav on Apr 20, 2019 7:21:25 GMT
well,
I'm really struggling ive spoken to lots of people and it seems that my fears were correct the only people to get the lights working have either got mk1 donor or pre 2000 mk2 (old wiring system) and some with after market ECU which have wired separate switches which is not an option for me. it looks like i'm going to have to ask Mev to take them back and go to a more standard light fitting that does not have H1 bulb as then they wont track across the fitting. a lot of money and time spent for the brackets to house the lights I hope I can modify them to take the lights I end up with.
if anyone has any other info please share as many people will have same issue and its not a cheep solution!!
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Post by martinw on Apr 20, 2019 10:55:53 GMT
Hi Paul
I'm not familiar with the MX5 at all, so can't talk specifics. Seems to me that if you have switched earths for dip and main at the headlamp unit (along with a constant / ignition fed live), then the issue should be pretty easily resolved with a couple of relays and minor changes to the wiring.
Can you post up some sort of schematic to show what you've actually got in terms of connections at each of the headlamps? I'm sure we can resolve this with some very cheap additions rather than binning your entire Dominator units.
Martin
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Post by p2tav on Apr 20, 2019 15:09:27 GMT
Hi Paul I'm not familiar with the MX5 at all, so can't talk specifics. Seems to me that if you have switched earths for dip and main at the headlamp unit (along with a constant / ignition fed live), then the issue should be pretty easily resolved with a couple of relays and minor changes to the wiring. Can you post up some sort of schematic to show what you've actually got in terms of connections at each of the headlamps? I'm sure we can resolve this with some very cheap additions rather than binning your entire Dominator units. Martin hi Martin, this picture shows the headlights complete and there is continuity across all the lights due to the metal body and bracket. heads and tails flipthe next picture shows the inside of one of the lights with H1 bulb which uses casing for earth. there are 2 wires on each light the blue wires are earths. the strange thing is when you put dipped beam on no light comes on but then when you put full beam on both come on but if you connect the mx5 bulb holders which I kept they all work as should. as pic bellow shows first pick is dipped 2nd is main and all is good?? last picture is wiring diagram 27 and 28 are dipped beam and 29 and 30 are main beam which have switched lives but as you will see the dipped is normal so when you just connect dipped beam with no main beam wires all is good the minute you add main beam wires it goes all wrong as they just track across fitting.
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Post by p2tav on Apr 20, 2019 15:21:57 GMT
hi Marin, as you can see by diagram you need dipped beam on for power but as it is common with main beam the fitting now has 2 lives and one earth. when you select main beam you get second earth the issue is on dipped beam you don't get enough power to light both bulbs and it tracks back then when you switch main beam on the second earth allows both bulbs to turn on. that's as I understand it but I might be wrong it is a strange way of wiring it to me as one is switched live and one switched earth. if the bulbs were H4 this would not be an issue as it could not track across the casing. see what you think. cheers, Paul
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Post by p2tav on Apr 20, 2019 16:10:43 GMT
I have done some more digging bare with me,
pre 1999 the mx5 has switched pos for lights pre 2001 they have switched neg for lights pre 2003 they have switched pos for dipped beam and switched neg for main beam.
as you can guess I have a 2003 so need to isolate the dipped beam from main can not use same fitting or bulb as it wont work without rewiring my car.
i'm thinking of removing connecting bracket and painting light bracket with none conducting paint and I think this would work as each one would be independent and not able to track across ?
thoughts please
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Post by martinw on Apr 20, 2019 17:15:35 GMT
Hi Paul From looking at the wiring diagram, and from what you describe, I think that all you need is one suitable relay, and a very minor bit of rewiring, all adjacent to the headlamps. H1 bulbs have a single live feed, and are earthed from the lamp body - on your Doms there is also a blue wire. For the dip beams, the existing loom Red / Yellow wire should be connected to the dip feed (ie either the Dom red or yellow....not sure which) and the Dom blue should go to ground. Unless you have that ground connected you wont get any light from the bulb (I assume the lamp casing isn't currently grounded). For the main beams, you will need to use the existing loom White wire (which is the switched ground) to connect to a new relay, which switches a live feed (you can use the existing loom Green for that), and connect that new switched live to the Dom yellow (assuming the dip was Red above...). All you need do is ensure that the relay you use can handle the current that the main beams will draw. Provided you leave the existing loom stuff intact, the main beam warning light will continue to work. I think what you are experiencing at the moment with the Doms is because you are only connecting the Red and Yellow wires - Red to the switched live for dip, and Yellow to switched ground for main. As there is no other ground, just turning on dip has no effect; when you turn on main, the circuit is completed with the switched dip live to the Red, through the lamp body to the bulb body for main beam, and then the switched earth to the Yellow. Hope that makes sense - it does to me Haven't drawn a diagram (can't be ar*ed scanning / hosting image etc tbh...!) but if you pm me an email address I can draw a quick sketch if it would help. Can't see this being a big deal - it certainly isn't a massive rewire at any rate. Martin
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Post by p2tav on Apr 20, 2019 17:40:53 GMT
Hi Paul From looking at the wiring diagram, and from what you describe, I think that all you need is one suitable relay, and a very minor bit of rewiring, all adjacent to the headlamps. H1 bulbs have a single live feed, and are earthed from the lamp body - on your Doms there is also a blue wire. For the dip beams, the existing loom Red / Yellow wire should be connected to the dip feed (ie either the Dom red or yellow....not sure which) and the Dom blue should go to ground. Unless you have that ground connected you wont get any light from the bulb (I assume the lamp casing isn't currently grounded). For the main beams, you will need to use the existing loom White wire (which is the switched ground) to connect to a new relay, which switches a live feed (you can use the existing loom Green for that), and connect that new switched live to the Dom yellow (assuming the dip was Red above...). All you need do is ensure that the relay you use can handle the current that the main beams will draw. Provided you leave the existing loom stuff intact, the main beam warning light will continue to work. I think what you are experiencing at the moment with the Doms is because you are only connecting the Red and Yellow wires - Red to the switched live for dip, and Yellow to switched ground for main. As there is no other ground, just turning on dip has no effect; when you turn on main, the circuit is completed with the switched dip live to the Red, through the lamp body to the bulb body for main beam, and then the switched earth to the Yellow. Hope that makes sense - it does to me Haven't drawn a diagram (can't be ar*ed scanning / hosting image etc tbh...!) but if you pm me an email address I can draw a quick sketch if it would help. Can't see this being a big deal - it certainly isn't a massive rewire at any rate. Martin thanks for help Martin I will give it a try and see how it goes appreciate your help
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Post by jason82 on Apr 22, 2019 6:55:06 GMT
I would ho back to Stuart if that's where you got the lights from. I thought that the lights would work straight out of the box ? The trouble is, these lights are expensive, & if you start taking the light apart to get the thing to work, as the cover has been removed & modifications being done, you are voiding your warranty. It would be a real pain if you got the lights working, then all of a sudden the projector packs up, then you loose a load of money.
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Post by martinw on Apr 22, 2019 8:59:40 GMT
Hi Paul
PM sent with sketch of wiring as described in previous post. Tho only change is to switch a relay (using the switched ground) when main beam is selected, and use that relay to supply a live feed to the Dominator main beam bulb.
It makes sense to use 2 relays (one for each side) given that the MX5 already has a left / right split on live feeds, and maintaining that split will ensure you don't overload any existing wiring.
Cheers
Martin
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