|
|
Post by laube on Dec 17, 2016 20:42:32 GMT
Hi Edward, Erik, Both of your options have advantaged and are perfect executed. Have played around with some old stainless from the left overs at work to get some ideas. I will try to stick with the original tank for now. Erik your right on the space available being to tight to use the origional inlet filter, I will create an custom Aluminium inlet filter box later. Because I need to make sure that with a custom box the engine will be able to breathe freely measuring the inlet vacuum with the original and custom box will be mandatory. First setup for half a "firewall" is just to see what fits the exo best.    The stainless leftover gave me a food view on space available for the inlet filter and esthetics. Now puzzled the complete version with the right angle similar to the seat.      Almost ready for a few polyester hours 😆 |
|
|
|
Post by edvb on Dec 17, 2016 22:12:44 GMT
laube
Considering the skills you have shown a new s/s tank is within your skillset. The nice thing is you can incorporate the radiator overflow and original air box in one shot. But I incorporated a front radiator that freed up a bit of room and really cleaned up the engine compartment. Roger's modified gas tank was able to do the same thing but with less capacity.
Maybe a combination of all the ideas will give you the best compromise for your trike.
Edward
|
|
|
|
Post by edvb on Dec 17, 2016 22:24:11 GMT
As far as the rear shock the best thing I did was get rid of the original with the remote damper control and got the shock made by Haygon. I got the heavy duty spring and works perfectly. If you are light enough the stock front dampers should work fine as Roger has those.
You are doing such a great job on this that it is worth taking the time to listen to all the ideas to sort your trike out for your application.
Edward
|
|
|
|
Post by laube on Dec 30, 2016 6:30:24 GMT
Thanks for the compliment Edward ! Done some work on the exo recently and will update with some pictures in a few days. Still in doubt on the radiator position... erik, read somewhere in your thread it isn't allowed by Msva rules to trim the windshield but can't find it inyour log. Can you advise ? Much appreciated and update follows soon. Iwan |
|
|
|
Post by erik on Dec 31, 2016 16:14:11 GMT
Yes, for MVSA you are not allowed to modify a windshield but if you use one you need to install a screen wiper and demister (fan) if you cannot look over the screen. When the windscreen is non see through (composite like Edward's version) or painted it is a panel and that's okay. For the Exo this results in adding the screen after MVSA. I removed mine a few days ago for dutch RDW so it cannot fail on the windscreen  The radiator position should be fine but I read Smokingguitarplayer had some heat issus when pushing hard 10 minutes full throttle(and his fan ran wrong direction???). Roger reports no heat issues with the scoop on it in SM thread (page15 above posts). Fabricate the scoop and make it a bolt on version like I did then you'll be able to mount is after MVSA when desired. I think with normal cruising (what the Exo is designed for) it should be fine but in high density slow traffic it might be nice if the fan can be operated manually but then again, the fan should cover overheating automatically. |
|
|
|
Post by erik on Dec 31, 2016 16:29:01 GMT
Regarding the rear shock, I installed the original version and will visit Hyperpro Werkendam to check all shocks and swap springs for progressive springs. it's 100euro/spring including math, removal, installation, testdrive, adjustments and rebuild if needed. It's a highly recommended safety feature to have this sorted by professionals. I have done this with my tR1ke and it is a very comfortable yet firm setup. Best of all, the springs have minimal pre tension and work as designed.With minimal pre tension the progressive spring is in it's most comfortable mode adding moe pre tension the sprong will get stiffer unlike linear wound springs.The progressing springs do get firm when cornering. The tR1ke is close to level when cornering like a go kart not tilting like a Citroen 2CV LOL!! For this reason I have not chosen for torsion bars on the tR1ke as well because I see this as a dumb counterforce not calculated, low technology level which acts counter effective on progressive springs)
When the original shocks need to be binned I guess I will use shocks and springs recommended by Hyperpro. The engeneers at Werkendam are experienced race track drivers and examinators and know well how to deal with suspensions. No doubt this is the best way to spend your money. I wouldn't prefer to sort this myself which add costs too LOL!!
Don't worry about the shocks have this sorted professionally after MVSA. Just make an visit ASAP after you have it street legal to minimize safety issues.
|
|
|
|
Post by edvb on Dec 31, 2016 18:10:16 GMT
laube The thing is that you have a choice of which way to go. Either Erik, Roger or the way I did it are proven ways to go. When making the tunnel for the shock the hose for the remote adjuster was a pain when having to remove it for inspection or shock removal. I bit the bullet and went this way instead. I am glad I did as the ride is perfect for me and this shock should last me my lifetime. At least you have a good choice on which way to go. Edward Hagon 63044S shock Hagon Products 7 Roebuck Road Hainault Business Park Hainault Essex IG6 3JH  IMG_2209 by evanbelkom, on Flickr |
|
|
|
Post by laube on Jan 1, 2017 20:15:06 GMT
Hi All,
Good info from all, thanks much appreciated! Werkendam is quite close so this sound good. Getting very curious on how "Francesco" as my two boys call the exo is handling.
Lot's of details done in the last weeks, I noticed that all part and brackets are in my hands multiple times.. the radiator I had to reposition again because of the hight of the fan, read through the treads of all builds and seen none of them have a fan motor similar.
Also had to relocate the induction coil from the side to the top of the engine because of the cooling system.
List of things done recently and offcourse the supportive pictures.
*front bracking lines, clean calipers, mount new brake pads and connect to the devider and master cylinder
*create & install dashboard frame and cut back the origional plastic shielding
*connect the cooling system to the engine and radiator
*create bracket and determine location for the cooling expantion reservoir
*clean and paint the fueltank
*mould for the cover behind the seat is made with two layers polyester and now ready to use for the definitive cover.
Build is going quite well but the "bolt on" approach is providing lots of delay, the how to solve factor and still keep the sollution al solid, rigid & durable causes that im doing some things twice to end up with an acceptable end solution.
No complaining because the decision was all mine 😏
|
|
|
|
Post by laube on Jan 1, 2017 20:17:12 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by laube on Jan 1, 2017 20:21:17 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by laube on Jan 1, 2017 20:24:20 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by laube on Jan 1, 2017 20:27:15 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by erik on Jan 1, 2017 22:45:04 GMT
Make sure the coolant hoses can torque and flex when the engine is tilting or they will tear.
Good progress made! Yes it takes me quite some time to overthink the build before I start. The coolant reservoir location took me 5 days to find LOL!
|
|
|
|
Post by edvb on Jan 1, 2017 22:52:55 GMT
laube
Looking real good!
I ended up doing some pieces three times before I was pleased with the outcome. The rear engine cover was one of them.
Everything looks like it is coming together and you should have it ready by Spring the way it looks. Great Job!
Edward
|
|
|
|
Post by roger32849 on Jan 2, 2017 21:00:07 GMT
It looks like you are getting close to a test ride. Outstanding progress. Congratulations
Roger
Worcester, Massachusetts
|
|
