On the topic of rivnuts, they are a fast and easy way of holding pieces together that do not require excessive forces applied to them. I installed several in the assembly of my TR1ke, but none where loads were expected to be applied. My gauge panel and a few other places. The largest size was 1/4". Erik is correct, they have their place. I personally add silicone sealer around the edges before I attach anything. On my Eco-Exo I did not use any rivnuts.
FYI: My TR1ke build is not on any forum. I made the decision to keep it off. It is a kit from ESC but actually has an RTR certificate of origin. I am not sure if it would be allowed. I am not certain if ESC is an authorized manufacturer. I think they "may" be, but I didn`t pursue it past asking another moderator. His answer was he did`t have a problem with it, but then again, some other moderators may. So there you have it.... by the way, the build is coming along nicely. I have the fuel tanks and other items in being powder coated. I am currently working on the instrument wiring and getting the cooling system completed. I have the steering, brakes, and exhaust completed. Radiator mounted and front lines connected. The ignition and other wiring is done, but need to make end component connections.
Keep us all posted on the last Eco-Exo build, and again, if I can be of assistance let me know.
Not sure about MVSA regarding rivnuts but the Dutch RDW demands all mounted components need to be mechanically VISIBLE secured. Locktite or any other adhesive isn't allowed. Locking washers and locknuts is the way to go. They need to have caps on the outside of the chasis and inside the cockpit to cancel out sharp edges <4mm radius. I used a TUBE of copper grease to grease the threads (copper grease from a can is dirt sensitive when using a brush. from a tube the grease is clean which reduces damaging threads when bolting due to debris (grinding, sand etc). I did throw away a new can of copper grease because the brush got "infected" and stainless bolts jammed.
Edwin's trike has rivnuts and is approved for MVSA and converted to RDW. Rik has used short L-profiles (20-30mm) TIG welded on his chasis and tapped thread through it. I used extended hexagon nuts (belt sanded the zink coating off before welding). I heard they are available in square as well. You could use P-clamps to mount items to the chasis as well. I need to find a way to add a backrest to my chasis. The seat is quite low which may be spine breaking in a collision (but it is an original, street legal Kreidler kart seat and seat slides).
Btw. Don't mount the windscreen for MVSA. A modified (lowered) screen isn't allowed. When it's not see through they call it a panel which is allowed.
Very nice detail job. The decision to inspect and replace components is a good one especially given the fact you have not ridden the donor and may not be aware of how HARD it was ridden. Post your findings when you finish. I did a similar inspection, but my donor only had 5K miles on it. It was a salvage donor. It met an untimley demise after meeting the tarmac on its side then flipping over at a high rate of speed. Nothing was damaged on the engine and it needed nothing to be done except detailing. The internals all looked new and has still performed as new. This spring it will get a good servicing, new belt, and possibly rollers (sliders) and new clutch pads.
It has been great fun to drive and was a learning experience to build.
I also had a donor with 8300 miles on it and it looked brand new. I found it was worth doing all the little details now than to rush it into service. I got over 6000 miles logged before putting away this Winter and not a single problem. My motto always has been.
" Do it right the first time or don't bother doing it"
Ordered some parts to do the maintenance but first make sure all burgman parts will fit on the chassis.
Not so much done recently but still moving forward. Some details I thought where ok need to be modified slightly.
Still in doubt if I will bring the carburetor to the side of the chassis, if keeping it as original behind the seat there is more space to fit a more "original " style inletfilter to keep the noise level down.
You need to find a good location for your coolant bottle first. Then you may notice the original airbox is a hard fit below the tank. You may reconsider to make a box tank behind the seat but you need a firewall for safety reasons. I wanted to use the original airbox as well but there is only limmited space under the rear fairing. Have a good browse in my thread to see the restrictions. I did prefer the K&N filter behind the seat which is a part not sticking out of the chasis (safety issue) and not needed to weld the bends like Scotts version. Because the engine is long I wasn't able to install a decent firewall and left it open for max cooling. for this reason I only used half the floor plate. Toy around with the starter key switch, regulator and batterie too. Because your chasis is coated you may house them behind the seat, boxed like Scotts version.
The rear fairing is removed from my Exo. you may have a good impression at Bas's shop.