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Post by p5curly on Aug 17, 2016 20:25:25 GMT
Check the bleed nipples on the brakes too they sometimes seize
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Post by Fin on Aug 17, 2016 21:01:33 GMT
Check the bleed nipples on the brakes too they sometimes seize Don't look too bad but I'll check further tomorrow |
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Post by Fin on Aug 17, 2016 21:08:16 GMT
shiny black chassis kit now in our shop awaiting you! Aargh. Just got very real. |
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Post by p5curly on Aug 17, 2016 21:39:21 GMT
Make sure you can loosen them before you spend ages painting them
We had that problem at Shane's bleed nipple snapped and could not get it out so another caliper had to be ordered
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Post by Fin on Aug 19, 2016 13:59:01 GMT
Make sure you can loosen them before you spend ages painting them We had that problem at Shane's bleed nipple snapped and could not get it out so another caliper had to be ordered Book says they're 8mm, which one is and loosened nicely. The other is smaller and probably only 7mm, not through damage. 7mm socket won't reach, and I haven't got a spanner, unless and old imperial fits. |
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Post by Fin on Aug 19, 2016 14:51:07 GMT
Took the brake calipers off, and noticed the rear N/S piston seal was badly perished, so I figure I should replace all round. My question is, there appear to be 2 kits - one with just the seals (9/10 per wheel) and some which seem to include the piston. Which would be better, replace only what I can see is perished, or do the pistons as well? well that depends on the state of the piston, if its corroded or pitted then you need the one including the piston, Guess this qualifies as "corroded"  |
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Post by lukiez on Aug 20, 2016 11:03:04 GMT
Erm... Yeah!
No amount of polishing would get that out(!) plus it would only damage the new seals - likewise lift up the dust covers on the rest of the calipers, if dry and free from corrosion a light smear of rubber grease on the piston should protect it for now
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Post by Fin on Aug 20, 2016 16:54:29 GMT
The O/S piston is fine, but the seal just disintegrated. Trouble is, I can't get the piston those final few mm to release it. Is there anyway to "push" it from the grub screw end, or protect it whilst I attempt to pull it? Working on stripping the front to check them too, but will buy 4 new seal sets + at least one new piston. Also removed the bellhousing for cleaning, and popped the clutch out.   Took the plate up to Romac, and the guy said there was plenty of meat left, and that the strange striations were intended at manufacture and were not wear indicators. However, the centre hub was bluey/purple and looked as though it had been tempered. He thought this might indicate some exposure to excessive heat. Any thoughts?   Was also a bit surprised by the bell housing been pretty dirty with evidence of wet oil at the bottom. Is this OK?  |
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Post by mscott on Aug 20, 2016 18:03:15 GMT
The O/S piston is fine, but the seal just disintegrated. Trouble is, I can't get the piston those final few mm to release it. Is there anyway to "push" it from the grub screw end, or protect it whilst I attempt to pull it? Working on stripping the front to check them too, but will buy 4 new seal sets + at least one new piston. Also removed the bellhousing for cleaning, and popped the clutch out. Took the plate up to Romac, and the guy said there was plenty of meat left, and that the strange striations were intended at manufacture and were not wear indicators. However, the centre hub was bluey/purple and looked as though it had been tempered. He thought this might indicate some exposure to excessive heat. Any thoughts? Was also a bit surprised by the bell housing been pretty dirty with evidence of wet oil at the bottom. Is this OK? |
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Post by p5curly on Aug 20, 2016 18:07:37 GMT
As for clutch i changed ours and as for the oil it probably dripped down from the top end as there is some on top bell housing hole
So the oil may have been there for years from a really small leak
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Post by lukiez on Aug 20, 2016 20:34:39 GMT
Actually you're in luck as it looks like the clutch has been changed as it looks clean and new (no rust). the discoloring is most likely to be manufactured that way as its limited to just the plate, the rest of the steel would be a similar colour if it had got too hot and probably warped too, also the clutch material would likely to be charred and burnt. This would be reflected on the flywheel and pressure plate
Also check the spigot/pilot bearing as they can be neglected on clutch changes.
I agree with p5curly regarding the oil in the bell housing, just looks like they never cleaned it out
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Post by Fin on Aug 20, 2016 20:51:05 GMT
I agree with p5curly regarding the oil in the bell housing, just looks like the never clean it out Thanks. So should I clean it out, or leave well enough alone? |
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Post by lukiez on Aug 20, 2016 21:13:44 GMT
I would clean it out personally - the choice is yours (I just edited the last part of the previous post)
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Post by h20boynz on Aug 21, 2016 3:26:29 GMT
If you have an air compressor put the nozzle in the port in the rear with a rag around it and the piston should pop out (watch it doesnt fly out!).
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 21, 2016 5:08:33 GMT
Remove bleed nipple apply air pressure into caliper. First put a rag around the piston as fluid will be coming out..Don't have your hand in front of it when applying air pressure.. I would clean out the bell housing.
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