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Post by jgilbert on Aug 3, 2016 16:51:48 GMT
Good work. If you can plan ahead and spray components each day with a good release/plus gas a couple on days ahead of trying to dismantle you this often helps.
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Post by Fin on Aug 3, 2016 18:13:27 GMT
Well, good news and bad news. Got all the nuts out without resorting to a "here's Johnny" moment, but had forgotten to prop the suspension arms, and so the engine decided to demonstrate the startling effect of gravity on an unsecured lump of inanimate metal. Good job the hoist lift/balance bar & chains arrived today, so I should be able to lift off the body, and then raise the front sub-frame and jam the suspension on Saturday, as I need another pair of hands. Despite the set-back, a good day!  html image host |
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Post by Fin on Aug 3, 2016 18:16:25 GMT
Good work. If you can plan ahead and spray components each day with a good release/plus gas a couple on days ahead of trying to dismantle you this often helps. Very true, but the nature of being a novice means you tend to be working page by page, attacking tasks consecutively rather than concurrently. I'll be better prepared next time. |
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 3, 2016 18:30:20 GMT
Is that $10.00 jack the only thing holding up the body and sub?? Don't see jack stands..Safety is the first word/thought on a build..
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Post by Fin on Aug 3, 2016 19:44:29 GMT
Is that $10.00 jack the only thing holding up the body and sub?? Don't see jack stands..Safety is the first word/thought on a build.. It's still on three wheels, and there's an axle stand behind the hub. |
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Post by Fin on Aug 6, 2016 18:31:26 GMT
Sense of achievement today as the shell came off, admittedly, not without a fight.  |
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Post by p5curly on Aug 6, 2016 18:43:24 GMT
I like the wood at the front it brings back memories of ours where the body rolled on its side after we lifted it off
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Post by Fin on Aug 6, 2016 19:03:50 GMT
 There were two unexpected struts anchoring the rear sub-frame to the floor pan behind the driver's seat. Are these standard, and I can find no mention anywhere? That said, when I bought it, the guy said he'd spun and nudged it at the back and the diff had been fixed to pass the MOT. Maybe these are additional braces to strengthen the PPF?  The diff actually looked a bit grotty, and sealed with some form of gunk rather than a gasket  This might also explain this strange configuration around the long pins/bolts securing the PPF to the gearbox   Having taken a look at the state of the nuts & bolts on the suspension, I think the Impact Wrench may make a re-appearance on the wish-list. |
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Post by Fin on Aug 6, 2016 19:05:40 GMT
 Sense of achievement today as the shell came off, admittedly, not without a fight. Could only get 2 chains bolted on, so it was a bit unpredictable shall we say ! |
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Post by p5curly on Aug 6, 2016 20:18:46 GMT
The rear braces where on mk2 or the 1.8 I don't think you need them on the kit
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Post by mikeeyboy on Aug 6, 2016 20:45:15 GMT
As has been said, that brace is a standard part of the mk2.
I'm shocked by that bodge repair on the ppf, I would definitely look to fix that if I was you!
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Post by Fin on Aug 6, 2016 22:59:32 GMT
It's 1.6 Mk2.5. You think they look standard, or as a result of a repair?
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Post by lukiez on Aug 6, 2016 23:16:23 GMT
the brace bar is unrelated to the PPF and is fitted to all models since the 1.8 came out as later 1.6 cars started to have them, thus all mk2's have them. there should be 2 lugs on the exocet chassis which the brace bar bolts to, however I understand the brace bar requires cutting shorter to fit or the lower bracket on the subframe can bolt onto the said lugs as they are some variation between some models.
the diff looks alright to me, the sealant is normal they don't have gaskets, the gearbox will be the same. Japanese hardware tend to favour the use of sealant rather than gaskets - except Honda who love them and use O-rings everywhere!
an impact gun is a very useful tool (have one at work - 720ft/lbs of impact torque from a battery one!) however I didn't have one at the time I stripped my donor - just relied on a trusty breaker bar, penetrating fluid and heat for stubborn bolts/nuts it can be done. I can recommend getting a lazy tong or air riveter when it comes to doing the floors on the new chassis
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Post by lukiez on Aug 6, 2016 23:24:00 GMT
It's 1.6 Mk2.5. You think they look standard, or as a result of a repair? its standard. its to stiffen the body from torsional twist therefore improve handling characteristics regarding any repairs at the rear without seeing further pictures it looks fine so far - more likely the diff's mounting arms may have snapped in the impact which they do so its been replaced quite possibly |
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 7, 2016 4:24:45 GMT
The bracket can be used by cutting the front ears off and just use it under the rear sub..As far as the front PPF to trans bolt I would try and reuse the bent up on if it can't be used at least put a good large washer under the nut. The diff center section has been reinstalled in the housing.. Prop shaft was witnessed striped to the diff flange.. The housing was most likely replaced because of the accident. They are made to break the right wing if hit. If you look at the housing rt. wing you will see 2 notches were it is made to break.. Nice work so far..
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