Babr, the only known builder that has modified the frame to fit a 2008 up Burgman 400 s Roger. It was not a real easy modifcation but is do able. The 2008 up has the speedo operating off the engine ECM and a speed sensor on the back wheel.
I am not suer when UK got fuel injection but I think USA/Canada got it in 2003.
A good site to get any information is BurgmanUSA.com and even though it says USA we have members from all over the world, we don't care where you live.
On two wheels now, one is a car tire. Looking for a 2F1R trike.
I am poor, please do not ask me for money or tools. I will ride 100 miles to help for a beer and sandwich.
Welcome to the forum. I can try to answer your questions concerning the 27 HP dyno result. The American spec 2003 thru 2006 fuel injection Burgman engine delivers 32 HP. THE 2007 and up delivers 35 HP. Fuel injection provides a means to deliver varying ratios of fuel depending on demand as sensed by the Engine Control Module (ECM or ECU).. Power Commanders are designed to modify that ratio by intercepting the ECM signal, modifying it and sending it on it way to the fuel injection system/timing. Since your trike has a carburetor, a Power Commander is not an option. Re-jetting your carb to increase the fuel quantity is about all you can do. Adding a LeoVince exhaust is an expense that will not give a good return on power at the rear wheel. So, what are our options??? If you increase engine displacement by boring your cylinder, adding larger valves and a larger carburetor, your power will increase and you will have spent a lot of money in the process. So, is there an answer..? Not really, the Burgman 400 is a scooter engine, it delivers power to the rear wheel via a belt driven CVT.
I have a 2008 engine. It is a true 400cc and not 385 cc as in your model. Mine has 4 valves, yours has 2. Mine is fuel injected, yours is carbureted. It is a matter of only a few horsepower between your engines performance and mine. Yours hits 85 MPH and that is just about the outside limit for the frame, suspension and steering. If you are getting 27 Wheel horsepower, engine horsepower should be dead on the 32 HP mark, if not a little more.
Drive and enjoy the Eco-Exo, experiment with carburetion and performance mods, but realize the Burgman engine isn't a mini Hayabusa.
I forgot to add a footnote. My Burgman engine overheated until I installed the scoop for the radiator. Keep an eye on your cooling fan to see if it is cycling on when temperatures are just at the midrange point on your gauge. If not,you may need to change the thermo switch out and add a scoop if you have not done so already.
Also, a more direct answer to your question, yes, you can gain more power utilizing a 2007 and newer engine with power commander and something like a LeoVince exhaust. The engine swap would mean relocting lower shock mounts, installing the 2007+ clocks, wiring harness, and ECU. In addition, the engine head and throttle body (air filter) will be protruding past the lower rollbar behind the seat, so the fire wall needs to be altered. Finally, the fuel tank needs to be modified in order for the throttle body to have clearance. I removed a portion of the forward lower tank area large enough to prevent contact when accelerating, or hitting a bump. Oh, one other thing, you need to utilize a combination of pre 2007 and 2007+ shock and motor mounts. I used a 2003 - 2006 upper motor hanger. It needed a very slight modification to fit. Also, I kept the 2007+ lower shock,and linkage but used a 2003 - 2006 turnbuckle that connects the shock to the linkage. Keep your original radiator or find a 2003 - 2006. I utilized a 2007+ cooling fan on a 2006 vertical radiator. The fan is a low profile and works great.
The 2007+ engines in Europe and the UK may have an emobiliser circuit that may require consideration/examination. Also, the 2007+ engines utilize the instrument panel for fault diagnosis and feedback. If your ECU sends a fault F1 you need to enter the dealer mode (optional switch easy to make) to clear, or diagnose the problem. Also, the ECU sets the idle RPM by the same method. In short, all of the items you need to convert to a 2007+ engine will require you to purchase an entire donor scooter, and not just the engine CVT assembly. Is the increase in power worth the cost? That is entirely up to you. Personally, I would start gathering information and examine all your options before changing anything.
Post some pictures of the mods you already did? I am quite curious how you did the tires.
Thank you everyone for response and sharing your experience re trike. I think I will have to leave quest for performance and enjoy the trike. I am mechanically no where near you guys and have got all work done at specialist shops. So for now I am diverting my attention to shocks and a custom exhaust (low priority).
Re heating, mine has the rad scoop, will get the thermostat switch checked.
I was going to get the front suspension fabricated as few fast runs initially were really scary. But I wanted to do all the changes re bump steer gradually. After changing to car tyres I don't feel a need to rectify bump steer issues. I will post pics soon.
I do have a question re carb filter. mine has a RAMAIR foam filter, and I have had few 50 miles runs in rain. As the filter is exposed there is a high likelihood of water getting into system. Any ideas, I am re-coating the foam with Polymer treatment. I haven't been able to find any waterproof filters. I think inlet dia is 52 or 55mm.
work done so far: engine serviceto get trike running as it kept breaking down (Not done: valve check,belts, variator etc - as build papers suggest reconditioned engine which had done 18 k miles before install, brake system, bigger master cylinder, rebuilt both calipers in front as initially had just one caliper per side. Changed seat, braided brake lines, fabricated end joints, 2 hrs on dyno, car tyres, quick release steering BG Racing, Approx 40 hr labour in total as of now.
Hi, need some help re shocks please. I visited Quantum Racing (quantumracing.co.uk) and they have taken measurements of the shocks but need info on spring ie length and spring rate. Can anyone help with these please. Other option is to take shocks off the trike so they can measure spring rate but this will workout an expensive exercise to find spring rate as the trike will have to be taken to nearby garage as these guys (Quantum) don't have tools or space, they only make shocks.
Also, rear shock clevis will have to be custom made so the rear shock will also have to be taken off for measurements unless someone has info on it.
My rear shock is ultra soft being original Suzuki item and I don't know if it has provision to harden the suspension. Anyways going to get all 3 done by Quantum but need the measurement bits sorted first. All help welcome. Thank you. It will take them 4 weeks to manufacture units once all measurements are done.
I took pics today but can't figure out how to upload on the forum?
After today's 70 miles drive, I did feel bump steer beyond 70MPH on motorway. Fronts are rock hard so hopefully upgraded monotubes should make it better.
Welcome to the forum. I have been busy but have time to write now.
It looks like you bought Scott's big brothers trike and it looks great!
If you look at my pages you can see the changes I made. As with Fred you need an accurate weight on each wheel with you sitting in the trike to get the spring rate before ordering your shocks. When I did this as shown on my pages the shocks arrived perfectly set up and I did not have to do any adjustments to dial them in.
The Hagon 63044S shock is perfect for the rear. A little pricey but does a great job. I got the heavier spring and was just right for my trike.
The front bottom wishbones should be just about level with you sitting in the trike. Mine where a little higher as I wanted the ground clearance to the new bonnet I made. I now know the stock shock length would of been fine and would of gone that way in the future.
The K&N filter that Roger mentioned would be the one I would use for your engine setup. You should be able to find one in your area.
This is the stock shock data I measured for the shocks you have now.
Original Shocks Combined springs 13" eye to eye extended 10.3" compressed 2.7" travel to bumper
Thank Ed, that info is gold mine, much appreciated. The tyres are Front 125/80/13 65 M and Rear 145/60/13 65 T. So you can see only problem is that front speed rating is M rated, I.E 81 MPH max. T rated start at 135 width. But rarely i'd be hitting 85MPH, but the contact patch is so much more then bike tyres so ride is better. I was afraid that trike may be difficult to push with added contact patch but hardly any issue. I got these from Opoen.co.uk but I believe they are based somewhere in EU but service was quick. Fronts are Continental and rears Michelin. I couldn't find same make for the size I was after.
Hi, any suggestions on how to watertight the electrics. All I have is the fairing panel that deflects water but there is a big gap to let water in easily. Also I will ride wo fairing for few days just to check aero and also my fairing looks shattered in direct sunlight making vision almost opaque. I am 5'8" and need something lower than stock. Was thinking of cowls and alternative short screens, no success yet so rather drive without faring for some time.
First dig at sticker, caused some bubbles. Getting suspension measured this week. Thanks