Tuning AN400 carb 98 model

[smokinguitarplayer]

Here's a picture of the switches assy from the scooter. I used Erik's idea and just lopped off a piece of the handlebar and used the entire switch assemblys. They just plugged right into the wiring harness eliminating any need for any electrical engineering and also weatherproof. So far working excellent. 

[birubhai]

Hi, thanks for the pics. Will get brake lines moved as per the pic. My trike is using all circuit/fuses from 98 model AN400. I am thinking of ordering a liquid electrical tape to cover all exposed fuses in the front.

Also been able to mount rear hugger without the exhaust hanger. Used a tow bar spacer, took 2 hours to cut the big metal chunk as have no electric tools. The original exhaust is off and will be shortly replaced by custom exhaust. Almost 10 kgs weight saving.

Replaced RAM air filter with K&N covered with their drycharger. So no water issues but the neck of original carb is small and I fear my new setup will come off with vibrations. Lets see how it goes.

Tillet arrived, not sure if I want to make a custom frame or use fixed rails. As I choose FIA spec seat, it weights 7.5 Kgs compared to 3 Kgs of glass fiber seat I have.

[birubhai]

Also spent two days to fabricate flyscreen. Tacky job, hope it stays on.

[birubhai]

[birubhai]

Hi everyone, some more updates. Been able to install Tillett seat but I think it looks bit high as I have used Tillett brackets mounted on custom frame. Seems will have to directly install the seat on chassis.

Does the seat look high, like on trike rather in?

[birubhai]

Was able to figure out LED indicators relay, found another unit with many soldered wires hanging amongst wire looms, stuck it under the dash. Exhaust few days away then suspension and then bump steer correction and proportioning valve and brake lines and installing seat on chassis . Then I am done. Hopefully.

Also ordered leather bags to use as storage to be placed on battery cover.

Thanks

[roger32849]

I have to admit your trike looks very different than its original "white on black" basic scheme. The front looks sporty with the stripe and sport mirrors. The non motorcycle tires complete the look.

The new seat looks as if it is a bit too tall. You have a lot of height added because of its mounting. I believe you could lower it and place it directly on the chassis....maybe lean it back a bit more.

Good job....great style mods.

Roger
Worcester, Massachusetts

[birubhai]

Thanks Roger, installed steering and realized can't get legs in without taking off steering. So ordered 300 mm steering as interim. Trike scheduled for further mods in mid July at fabricator.

[birubhai]

Installed titanium exhaust, it is loud but having spoken to manufacturer they said that the DB killer is installed. So I don't have many options to quieten, may be install additional baffle.

Unfortunately I lost the K&N set up (filter & dry charger) somewhere on road today. Will order another set and cable tie it. Problem is the carb flange is tiny 16MM and if I tighten the filter it slips off and even if it is just about right; a big bump and its gone. What do you think if i were to install a silicone hose and then mount filter?? Will additional length cause engine issues? I also head pops, bangs and crackle sound on overrun with bigger K&N filter. More air is good for engine I assume??

[birubhai]

Tried to fit leather bag and a handy pouch. Leather bags are in a pair. Small pouch for portable battery to power iphone for Sat Nav. Hoping to do a long run like end to end UK, very initial thoughts. I need to get the confidence that trike won't break down. Other than electrics all looks fine, I have no idea how long the belts last or state of clutch. The built papers suggest a reconditioned engine was used so fingers crossed.

Reinstalled K&N set-up with a wire guard. Added glass wool to exhaust but not sure if it will last long as could see it flying all over in the test. It has dampened the sound a bit.



Expecting shocks by coming Wednesday. Will keep posted.

[birubhai]

ed: Hope you are well. I am planning to visit fabricator after the shocks are installed. I have read and re-read you posts on suspension esp control arms mods and high misalignment spacers. I am I correct in understanding that the bump steer was corrected with just adjustment to rose ends and track rods ends. The mods done were primarily to make the front stronger?

I did notice when the shocks were being measured there was in-effect zero droop, did high misalignment spacers help with the movement?

Just trying to understand whether my set-up just needs adjustments to dial out bump steer or do we have to fabricate A arms like you did?

I will do high speed tests after new shocks to better understand areas of improvements.

Many thanks

Babr

[davej98002]

Babr, the rubber belt on Burgman 400's last about 20,000 miles. Not all the time but in a few belt changes you also need to replace the vairators rollers. Then the clutch bell needs a good cleaning and scuffing up with fine sand paper. You can read the common maintenance items over at BurgmanUSA Forums

Burgmanusa.com/forums

[birubhai]

Great thanks, yes I have been on BurgmanUSA forum - it is good. Just wanted to understand symptoms when any of the consumables may need attention but 20K is plenty.

[edvb]

Jul 7, 2016 14:36:28 GMT birubhai said:

ed: Hope you are well. I am planning to visit fabricator after the shocks are installed. I have read and re-read you posts on suspension esp control arms mods and high misalignment spacers. I am I correct in understanding that the bump steer was corrected with just adjustment to rose ends and track rods ends. The mods done were primarily to make the front stronger?

I did notice when the shocks were being measured there was in-effect zero droop, did high misalignment spacers help with the movement?

Just trying to understand whether my set-up just needs adjustments to dial out bump steer or do we have to fabricate A arms like you did?

I will do high speed tests after new shocks to better understand areas of improvements.

Many thanks

Babr

The reasons for the new wishbones were the following.
Be able to adjust camber and caster.
Have larger and better quality rose joints using Teflon liners.
Use off the shelf misalignment spacers for greater deflection range.
Ease of replacing upper and lower rose joints if needed.
Quiet operation with Teflon liners in rose joint.
Ease of adjustability.


If you read my posts it shows how to check for bump steer. Once you find the center point of zero deflection you find the distance of the shock points eye to eye distance. This should equal the ride height with you sitting in the trike. I adjusted this with different size misalignment spacers on the bottom wishbones. I testing it with my bump steer jig until I found the least amount of bump steer in the amount off travel the shock was capable of.

I also set the toe in very carefully and tested the trike with half turn increments on each tie rod until it felt the best.

This was critical to get the best feel of the trike.

The shocks were perfectly dialed in since I was able to measure each wheel with digital wheel scales with full fuel and myself sitting in the trike.

Once I got everything adjusted I have not had to touch it in over 4000 miles of driving.

Roger has the stock wishbones and had no problems with bump steer so I feel you should be able to get rid of the bump steer with a proper alignment. It has to be done carefully and just a very small change makes a big difference on how the trike reacts.

Look at how he did his spacers and copy what he did. It seem to work well for him.

Edward

[smokinguitarplayer]

I noticed that you are or were having electrical issues , after getting wet etc. It looks like you have used the Fiat switch stalks which were designed for inside the car (Fiat 500) ...and are probably not waterproof. You might want to consider changing that setup.