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Post by R2S on Jun 12, 2017 15:02:19 GMT
Think I still have the cardboard templates on the shelf, if so I could stick them in the post if you want to follow the same outside fixing. Thanks for the offer, will pull something together myself after Ive seen the photo of your work but if I get stuck and need the template I'll let you know. |
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Post by tojeiro on Jun 14, 2017 8:31:09 GMT
Looked through my hard drive but didn't seem to have much. I have added a photo of the templates which hopefully helps explain. The entire bulkhead for me ended up in 3 parts. 1 main bulkhead sheet 2 rear sealing piece (was generous with tiger seal here as it will be hidden anyway with trim on my build 3 small front filler between vertical chassis rail and tube, last piece so didn't template, just fettled to suit.     Still to do a final run down and paint before body goes on, but that's just part of what is still a long list. Did take me two attempts on the main bulkhead sheet hence the offer of the templates. No issue to chuck them in the post if you think they might be of help. No use to me now, I'm not planning on doing this twice 🙂 |
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Post by tojeiro on Jun 15, 2017 10:50:49 GMT
Ordered my Protech Shocks today after some discussions with the Protech team. Final choice was 7" spring (1" shorter than standard MX5 spring), 350lbs on front & 175lbs or rear (only road use for me). Probably couple of weeks as they are busy but I am off to USA end of next week so no major rush. Director came on and after explaining a few of us are interested he did me a good discount for the set which placed them only slightly above the Vmaxx extremes which seems great value to me. Father's Day came early this year 🙂 Shocks look great and finish quality is much better than regular aftermarket suspension I have bought in the past. Loads of adjustability on length and even supplied with spherical bottom bush included what I felt was bargain price (more than £100 less than Gaz Golds)  Going away on business most of next week so they will just need to stay warm in the spare room till I get back. Well pleased with decision, thanks to those that gave feedback earlier on suspension options. This was the biggest blocker to fitting the body, all steam ahead now. |
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Post by R2S on Jun 15, 2017 12:01:11 GMT
For height you are stuck with the max length of the extended piston rod hence my Gold Pros actually drop car compared to standard. Did yours come completes as in the photo? I had to use the tops and rubber bushes from my originals.
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Post by tojeiro on Jun 15, 2017 19:14:36 GMT
Yes, that's how they came out the box. Won't know until I fit them but expect that mid spring seat position would give regular ride height with option to drop later as needed.
Protech have many different open lengths available so can tailor according to what you request. The set I have are basically same length as stock MX5 NB's.
Going to be running fairly large diameter wheels which should also avoid known light height issues.
These still use the donor top mounts which go on top of the Protech spring location hats, I have already refurbished all the donor top hats and have the original rubber bushings.
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Post by tojeiro on Jun 17, 2017 8:45:45 GMT
Had a spare hour last night so thought that I would take the chance to refill the system with the new coolant that has been sitting on my shelf for the last month. (I should have foreseen my fate, when does any job only take an hour 😩) As it's not specific to Replicar I dropped on the Cooling board for any help and suggestions. mevowners.proboards.com/thread/9012/replicar-overheating-problem-any-ideasThe restart threw up another issue I created by myself. Spent a lunchtime last week making final adjustments to the tunnel fitting including some rubber weather seal on all joins.  B&Q had this on offer, you are supposed to split into two narrow strips but using as is let me put screws through the middle. It's 18mm wide so ideal size to suit chassis tubes. Using this anywhere that there is removable panels, compresses right down to a couple of mm. So with all fitted and screwed down I ticked that job off my mental list, only when I went to restart and check the car was in neutral did notice that I had forgotten to replace the lower gaitor and gearstick, duhhh.  Lesson learned, must go back to written list on the wall. |
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Post by tojeiro on Jun 17, 2017 17:21:15 GMT
Problem solved I think on the overheating, replaced with original thermostat and it now runs fine.
I had fitted a new one when I refurbished the engine because I had never seen the engine run, but it obviously just a bad item, not much chance of a refund after a year 🙂
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Post by tojeiro on Jun 18, 2017 21:26:31 GMT
Now I have solved the overheating issue I feel happy to plumb in my new heater. Tried to find a space under the dash where it wouldn't be visible but also let me remove the tunnel without having to drain and disconnect. On the positive side doing some of the jobs twice (unintentionally) should help in the future as I now know everything can be taken in and out for maintenance or upgrade without major surgery or lots of unrelated dismantling.  On the column I had removed the wiper stalk but this had left a nasty hole when I fitted the new cover that arrived recently from eBay.  Was considering filling this with some fibreglass and the repainting then I had a brainwave (must have been the beer at dinner). Why not wire the heater to the wiper stalk !💡! No need to have a switch or dial on the dash and no need to cover up the hole on the column cover. As usual this idea was easier thought of than done. As my donor was partially stripped the wiper motor wiring was not tagged (mellens diagrams to the rescue) Tracked down the plug (black plug n/s scuttle) and dug out my multimeter. Figured out the wiring then made up some temp wires to the heater for testing and wayhey i have a working heater 😃 Next step is to pull the original fan resistor from the donor dash that's up in the eaves of the garage and with a bit more time may be able to get at least 2 speeds using slow and fast wipe positions. |
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Post by tojeiro on Jun 19, 2017 13:00:53 GMT
Went back and fitted the gearstick and new lower gaitor. As I have a MK2 gearbox the gear lever was definitely sitting a little higher than desired, so I created another extra job. Chopped about 15mm of the threaded section and ran a die down the shaft to re-thread. In absence of a lathe I had to bring out the angle grinder & dremel to recut the original taper by a similar 15mm lower but was not a big problem.  Now sits at a much better height for me and the shift action is still nice and easy. Small bit of sharp edge trim to add to the top of the tunnel and making a custom leather shift gaitor is no doubt going to test my new sewing skills. I have a nice shiny (hand burning) metal gear knob in waiting but will leave the sacrificial black one on until build is nearly finished. |
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Post by brettlawrence on Jun 19, 2017 17:46:47 GMT
You mounted your upper firewall/scuttle thing on the engine side, any reason for this or just convenient at the time? I mounted mine inside because I didn't want the box section exposed internally, although once finished it doesn't make any difference I guess.
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Post by tojeiro on Jun 19, 2017 23:01:58 GMT
Other than the hobby of making life harder for myself, I really just wanted it to match the driver side firewall. I had also planned to mount my expansion tank there and it seemed easier on a fully flat surface.
Probably one of the few going for a fully trimmed & carpeted interior (removable of course) so you eventually you won't see anything in the footwell in my car.
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Post by tojeiro on Jun 27, 2017 23:26:13 GMT
Anybody done anything under the dash ? Thinking about an aluminium panel connecting between dash lip and footwell crossbrace. Thinking was that with some edge trim this would be a very safe option for IVA and hides all wires and other bits and bobs. Still some fine tuning to do on templates before cutting a big sheet of aluminium.  |
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Post by brettlawrence on Jun 28, 2017 6:42:17 GMT
I did that, but went from top of transmission tunnel, and stopped just past the tunnel on the drivers side. Worked well in my opinion, and do es indeed hide lots of ugly.
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Post by tojeiro on Jul 3, 2017 19:38:08 GMT
I did that, but went from top of transmission tunnel, and stopped just past the tunnel on the drivers side. Worked well in my opinion, and does indeed hide lots of ugly. Cheers, I had another look through your build and now noticed what you did, looks nice and clean. |
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Post by tojeiro on Jul 3, 2017 19:38:39 GMT
Traded the family estate for another toy.  Sad news is that with the TT and the Replicar build progressing I am already pushing my toy allowance with my other half, so need to sell my much loved MX5.  Mileage now up to 41k (still mega low) and pretty much hasn't missed a beat in the 3 years I have owned it. Values of MK2.5's are pretty low and sadly the car is probably worth more in bits than it is as a whole car. With perfect sills, floor & mechanicals it would make the perfect base for a simple rebody kit. In hindsight I should probably have started with this as my Replicar base as I have spent hundreds and loads and loads of hours bringing my 2nd donor up to scratch. The last 2 years of sunny weekend drives however kept the extra work all worthwhile and the enjoyment in driving an MX5 was what helped to make the choice to go for a MEV. Worst case I could always put back to standard and flog the shiny bits separately.  |
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