JP
Newbie
PHX, AZ. 2001 silver/tan LS
Posts: 15
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Post by JP on Mar 30, 2016 8:14:14 GMT
Hey Everyone, Its been 2 days since I pulled the trigger on turning my '01 LS into an Exocet. Hoping someone in the phoenix,az area could show me the ropes a bit. I feel somewhat accomplished in my last 2 days as Ive gotten alot of the items off that I going to try and sell to minimize the effect on my checkbook. This is going to be somewhat of a tight budget build, so im sure im going to need lots of help and direction from everybody. I started tearing down the miata without a manual. Ordered one earlier today, as lot of the stuff I have no clue with. 2nd day. The door pivot hinge pin was a pain in the *** to get out. Finally did though. Thanks to a member on MX-5 club on facebook. If anyone know of places looking for me to off load all my spare parts let me know.
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Post by buildercg on Mar 30, 2016 12:44:02 GMT
I've had mixed luck selling on Craigslist. I've made most of the price of my donor back though I had the advantage of having a hardtop which sold for 1/4 the price of my donor. Biggest issue is with people flaking out.
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Post by mawdo81 on Mar 30, 2016 18:54:34 GMT
Label ALL electrical connectors, especially those that don't appear to be used. Stay safe and have fun!
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Post by steadfast on Mar 30, 2016 21:06:50 GMT
I physically wrote on most of my connectors with a sharpie (for instance I would write A on the male side, and A on the female side). For the engine bay I would write numbers, and the cabin I would write letters, and the trunk section I would write roman numerals. This way you can keep each section of the harness separated. This should make laying it out a little easier, once you have the Exocet in house. If the connector was unused I would wright the letter Z.
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JP
Newbie
PHX, AZ. 2001 silver/tan LS
Posts: 15
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Post by JP on Mar 31, 2016 7:56:49 GMT
Well Ive got my 4 colors of duct tape and spelling out all connections if I know what they are , if not "steering wheel 1" and both connectors get the same thing. I dont know why I didnt have a haynes manual before, but I have one on the way. I think i tried in previous years and they hadnt made one yet.
I know its a long way away but Ive always wanted to RFID ignition-wheres is push button but tag has to be in proximity- anyone ever attempted that, in past years the reader cost too much that would be able to read within say 5 foot radius reliably.
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Post by abc123 on Mar 31, 2016 19:58:00 GMT
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JP
Newbie
PHX, AZ. 2001 silver/tan LS
Posts: 15
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Post by JP on Apr 1, 2016 8:09:19 GMT
K some questions in planning my build/budget, forgive me as I am not a racer and not the most keen of some of the "preliminary knowledge" that most people have.
Thinking of getting a suspension package from Flying Miata. Ive read that there supposed to be so great, but I am trying to keep some softness to the ride and not intending to race this, is it still worth it to me? The shocks on the car now are the original stock ones so Im sure new ones would be improvment, but what am I getting exactly?
Same questions when it comes to a sway bar...
Also who should I order from, FM or Exomotive. Im in AZ so im thinking if the kit is coming from CO(?) that itll be less on shipping and should I have them powder coat it or pay for that afterwards?
Also thanks abc, right after I posted that I hit that button with s.e.a.r.c.h. on it and found alot of people running that setup and some others. Glad to know others have done it.
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Post by hutchey on Apr 1, 2016 11:56:17 GMT
Have you got to the point of removing steering wheel and fuel tank?
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Post by zeitgeist on Apr 1, 2016 12:41:23 GMT
K some questions in planning my build/budget, forgive me as I am not a racer and not the most keen of some of the "preliminary knowledge" that most people have. Thinking of getting a suspension package from Flying Miata. Ive read that there supposed to be so great, but I am trying to keep some softness to the ride and not intending to race this, is it still worth it to me? The shocks on the car now are the original stock ones so Im sure new ones would be improvment, but what am I getting exactly? Same questions when it comes to a sway bar... Also who should I order from, FM or Exomotive. Im in AZ so im thinking if the kit is coming from CO(?) that itll be less on shipping and should I have them powder coat it or pay for that afterwards? Also thanks abc, right after I posted that I hit that button with s.e.a.r.c.h. on it and found alot of people running that setup and some others. Glad to know others have done it. If you are building on a budget I would suggest sticking with stock suspension parts if they are serviceable. This saves time and money sourcing the parts and gives you a baseline to work from to see how much stiffer you may want to go. Plenty of people appear to be using stock front swaybar and no rear bar. Stock springs and dampers means no issue with having to use spacers for clearance or ride height correction. That said I went with FM Vmaxx XXtreme adj coil overs but I planned those in my budget and the car will see plenty of track time vs little street time. I am planning to just run the stock front bar and no rear swaybar to start and dial things in from there.
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Post by papabear on Apr 1, 2016 13:25:33 GMT
Thinking of getting a suspension package from Flying Miata. Ive read that there supposed to be so great, but I am trying to keep some softness to the ride and not intending to race this, is it still worth it to me? The shocks on the car now are the original stock ones so Im sure new ones would be improvment, but what am I getting exactly? If you want to do it on a budget start with the stock setup. See how you like it and go from there. Swapping out the shock/springs is relatively easy on the Exocet. Same questions when it comes to a sway bar... Same answer as above.Also who should I order from, FM or Exomotive. Im in AZ so im thinking if the kit is coming from CO(?) that itll be less on shipping and should I have them powder coat it or pay for that afterwards? If your talking about the actual frame it's going to come from Atlanta no matter who you order from. Buying through FM will get you a discount on parts from them though. If your thinking of buying parts from FM then go that route but it's not saving on frame shipping. If your thinking of coating local call around and make sure you have someone with a big enough oven. Not all power places have a oven big enough. Secondly if you want to make any modifications to the frame like adding brackets etc.. bare frame is the way to go. If you just want to bolt it all together Exomotive has a really good powder place doing the work.
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JP
Newbie
PHX, AZ. 2001 silver/tan LS
Posts: 15
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Post by JP on Apr 1, 2016 13:54:53 GMT
Have you got to the point of removing steering wheel and fuel tank? So the steering wheel is off, but I dont think I have even gotten close to getting the fuel tank. Im not sure of the "order" of things and been just find nuts and bolts and taking them off putting them in little baggies. Before I stopped last weekend I was stumped on how to get the dash out. The guage cluster is out with its cowl(?). Going to hit it up in a couple of mins though. Thanks zeitgeist and papabear for your answers.
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Post by greg on Apr 1, 2016 14:12:24 GMT
Yes. Love it. Disables the entire ignition system. Not just the ECU. Can be setup to be auto or manual meaning it'll activate when you get close or when you push the button on the remote. Easy to install too.
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 1, 2016 15:14:16 GMT
Dash is bolted in.. 2 each end, 1 each side of console, 1 center by windshield, 2 under dash holding steering up. Small Ground wire each end. You can remove fuel tank after after body off 4 bolts and hoses. Go to Auto Zone and buy a fuel line removal tool. Looks like an X you want one for 5/16 line. Slide in from flex side of connector pull off. If line pressurized cover with rag before pulling. Fuel lines under tin work rear deck. For info on car and electric lay out.. www.mellens.net/mazda/ also www.miata.net/ if not a member already (free).. Garage section and search in all sections for info..
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Post by golden86 on Apr 1, 2016 15:31:26 GMT
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 1, 2016 20:25:33 GMT
JP.. Don't let golden86 spread sheet scare you.. Just to get on road. If your donor is a good running car with good wheels and tires seats,and bushings. You can use all OEM parts.. Rattle can paint frame and subs and control arms.. to get car on road.. If you need a windshield in AZ might want to go for the race frame so you have a way to mount glass..Snowbird1 used a small piece of glass and manual wiper on his Replica to pass insp. then removed for short wrap around.. You can build a car cheap and add bell and whistles later. Just check out Stuarts how to build movie nothing fancy there.. I would order from FM you get discounts on other parts ordered later.. They have good phone service too..
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