JP
Newbie
PHX, AZ. 2001 silver/tan LS
Posts: 15
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Post by JP on Apr 2, 2016 4:38:07 GMT
JP.. Don't let golden86 spread sheet scare you.. Just to get on road. If your donor is a good running car with good wheels and tires seats,and bushings. You can use all OEM parts.. Rattle can paint frame and subs and control arms.. to get car on road.. If you need a windshield in AZ might want to go for the race frame so you have a way to mount glass..Snowbird1 used a small piece of glass and manual wiper on his Replica to pass insp. then removed for short wrap around.. You can build a car cheap and add bell and whistles later. Just check out Stuarts how to build movie nothing fancy there.. I would order from FM you get discounts on other parts ordered later.. They have good phone service too.. Yep been a lurker on miata.net for many a years. I am wondering about the AZ insp (preferring sport) and I did see snowbird1's "windsheild". Know im going to need new tires and new seats (driver leather tearing), want new brake lines ect. ect. Thanks for the all the help and posting through out the years.
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JP
Newbie
PHX, AZ. 2001 silver/tan LS
Posts: 15
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Post by JP on Apr 3, 2016 17:26:18 GMT
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Post by buildercg on Apr 4, 2016 0:43:43 GMT
JP, There's no wrong way to take apart the donor so long as you don't break the bits you need to keep and don't hurt yourself in the process.
I don't know the rules in your state, but I had a lot of people interested in buying my dash on CL. Since the VIN plate is attached to it, I had to decline as MA requires that the original VIN is scrapped in order for me to get to a street legal kit car. None of the other major parts have identifying numbers so I was able to make back a big chunk of the donor cost. It's been 6 months and I'm still trying to sell off parts though.
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 4, 2016 1:39:48 GMT
buildercg.. Why didn't you just drill out the rivets holding the VIN plate to dash. and sell it.. Buyer would have to install his plate to dash..
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Post by buildercg on Apr 4, 2016 1:47:49 GMT
Very nice MA State police officer who does the inspections told me it would be much better for me to prove the part was "destroyed"...
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JP
Newbie
PHX, AZ. 2001 silver/tan LS
Posts: 15
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Post by JP on Apr 4, 2016 15:09:30 GMT
JP, There's no wrong way to take apart the donor so long as you don't break the bits you need to keep and don't hurt yourself in the process. I don't know the rules in your state, but I had a lot of people interested in buying my dash on CL. Since the VIN plate is attached to it, I had to decline as MA requires that the original VIN is scrapped in order for me to get to a street legal kit car. None of the other major parts have identifying numbers so I was able to make back a big chunk of the donor cost. It's been 6 months and I'm still trying to sell off parts though. Ah Thanks for the heads up on that, didnt even come to mind. Good luck with the saleing for you and me both.
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Post by abc123 on Apr 4, 2016 17:00:20 GMT
careful, messing with vin plates can be considered "vin tampering" in some places...which can bring hefty penalties
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Post by buildercg on Apr 4, 2016 19:45:45 GMT
careful, messing with vin plates can be considered "vin tampering" in some places...which can bring hefty penalties This is pretty much what the officer told me...it's a risk I was not willing to take, personally. It was mentioned that if the inspection officer suspects anything fishy, that my car could be seized. Fortunately, I have photographic evidence of me destroying the shell and a bill of sale plus photos of disposing of the shell and dash at a salvage yard.
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JP
Newbie
PHX, AZ. 2001 silver/tan LS
Posts: 15
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Post by JP on Apr 5, 2016 9:38:19 GMT
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Post by kiwicanfly on Apr 6, 2016 9:37:14 GMT
I know its a long way away but Ive always wanted to RFID ignition-wheres is push button but tag has to be in proximity- anyone ever attempted that, in past years the reader cost too much that would be able to read within say 5 foot radius reliably. This was high on my list for my Rocket build. A number of people put start buttons in but had to use a normal key to disable the steering lock. Personally I could not see the point of a button if you have to use a normal key as well. Luckily in NZ there is no IVA requirement for a steering lock so I was able to put a pure RFID system in. I looked at many brands, from $50 Chinese units to the high hundreds. The cheap Chinese units all required you to just about rest your transponder on them also, this was the worst, they stated that if you loose your key then no problem, just press the button five times in two seconds and the car will start Also from the research I did I wanted a rolling code system, the access code changes every time it is used making it harder for scanners to crack the code. Eventually I homed in on units by Advanced Keys, they had all the functions I was looking for and cost about $400 at the time. www.advancedkeys.com/ However I scored big time in finding Advanced Keys Chinese manufacturer (I looked hard into it and it was definitely the same manufacturer) on AliExpress I scored the same model for $200 landed Unfortunately they are no longer selling them, in fact I got in just as they ceased selling, I got the impression it was not considered a good thing to be outletting direct, they are still in business but not selling these units direct anymore. Looking at their site now the latest model is selling at $350 I also looked at Digital Dawg at the time, can't remember what put me off, I think it might have been the price but from memory there was something in the spec too I didn't like, I don't think theirs used the rolling code but can't be sure. However looking tonight at their current line up their top unit at $599 is remarkably similar in specification to the Advanced Keys unit, in fact I would suggest it might have come out of the same Chinese company. However it looks a little more professional housed and the buttons and loom look a little more classy. Whether that's worth an extra $150 I don't know. www.digitalguarddawg.com/automobiles-trucks/ikey-keyless-go-systems/2go-keyless-combos#start-buttonsEither way the systems are awesome, installation was surprisingly easy, range is more than adequate, it is ready to go before I reach the car. You can cycle through ACC1, ACC2, Start or press the brake pedal and go straight to start. Stop the car and walk away and it just shuts the car down. Also when running, if you loose the key out the side then the system does NOT shut down, a concern I had as I had visions of the key falling out and the car suddenly stopping in the middle of the road. Only drawback is the current draw, it will take just a little too much out of my battery if left on for a few days so I shut the whole system down with a master switch, to be fair it is scanning constantly when powered up. I have already told myself that if something were to go wrong and it failed miserably I would certainly replace it even if it meant paying full price.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Apr 6, 2016 9:43:22 GMT
Just noted that DD is selling the system with an alarm as well at half price, $350!
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2016 21:53:39 GMT
JP, There's no wrong way to take apart the donor so long as you don't break the bits you need to keep and don't hurt yourself in the process. I don't know the rules in your state, but I had a lot of people interested in buying my dash on CL. Since the VIN plate is attached to it, I had to decline as MA requires that the original VIN is scrapped in order for me to get to a street legal kit car. None of the other major parts have identifying numbers so I was able to make back a big chunk of the donor cost. It's been 6 months and I'm still trying to sell off parts though. Mazda also stamps the vin number on a plate on the firewall. I called DMV and emailed the local police. They both said that if the portion of the car that has the vin tags is retained, it's still considered a miata. The reason I bring this up is because here in Oregon you may be able to cut a small part of the firewall out of the donor that has the vin and cut out a small section of the dash with the vin and keep the exocet registered as a Miata. May also be easier to insure if it is considered a modified Miata. I would make sure you go with an agreed value policy of some sort, regardless of what it's titled and registered as.
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Post by buildercg on Apr 13, 2016 23:57:10 GMT
JP, There's no wrong way to take apart the donor so long as you don't break the bits you need to keep and don't hurt yourself in the process. I don't know the rules in your state, but I had a lot of people interested in buying my dash on CL. Since the VIN plate is attached to it, I had to decline as MA requires that the original VIN is scrapped in order for me to get to a street legal kit car. None of the other major parts have identifying numbers so I was able to make back a big chunk of the donor cost. It's been 6 months and I'm still trying to sell off parts though. Mazda also stamps the vin number on a plate on the firewall. I called DMV and emailed the local police. They both said that if the portion of the car that has the vin tags is retained, it's still considered a miata. The reason I bring this up is because here in Oregon you may be able to cut a small part of the firewall out of the donor that has the vin and cut out a small section of the dash with the vin and keep the exocet registered as a Miata. May also be easier to insure if it is considered a modified Miata. I would make sure you go with an agreed value policy of some sort, regardless of what it's titled and registered as. Delinker's right. I had to scap the body too. When I wrote this I was thinking about doors, hood, trunk, etc.
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JP
Newbie
PHX, AZ. 2001 silver/tan LS
Posts: 15
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Post by JP on Apr 18, 2016 7:26:47 GMT
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Post by miket on Apr 18, 2016 17:07:44 GMT
Yes - assuming it's all blacks you've got there. My UK Mk1 has a couple of those.
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