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Post by NJ. on May 12, 2016 21:40:20 GMT
Thanks Mikeeyboy, I decided to press the ball joints out the arms using the press at work before sending them for powder. Was quite easy and they came out with little trouble - having said that I was using a 10 tonne press so they were coming out one way or another....  Met John from basingstoke metal finishes and showed him my parts. He said to budget £300 with the hope of it costing less. He shot blasts the parts and then hands them over to a place in Tadley for coating. The price includes the following - front subframe rear subframe 8 wishbones/arms 2 ARB's 2 Braces - front and rear 4 Shock hats some extras such as are bush brackets etc - small items and finally shock springs blasted only I was expecting it to cost around the 150 mark so is 250-300 reasonable... Also, he mentioned I should go for a satin black rather than the gloss to help hide the rust pits - has anyone done this? |
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Post by gwnwar on May 13, 2016 3:57:24 GMT
Doesn't sound to bad a price with blasting and coating. Are you have the sway bars done too And end links..
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Post by mikeeyboy on May 13, 2016 7:24:04 GMT
I have had my parts stripped and coated in stages, I lost track of how much I paid. I would definitely say it was more £300 ball park than £200. I do not think that sounds unreasonable at all. Getting it done is well worth it.
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Post by buildercg on May 17, 2016 1:29:24 GMT
Thanks Mikeeyboy, I decided to press the ball joints out the arms using the press at work before sending them for powder. Was quite easy and they came out with little trouble - having said that I was using a 10 tonne press so they were coming out one way or another.... Met John from basingstoke metal finishes and showed him my parts. He said to budget £300 with the hope of it costing less. He shot blasts the parts and then hands them over to a place in Tadley for coating. The price includes the following - front subframe rear subframe 8 wishbones/arms 2 ARB's 2 Braces - front and rear 4 Shock hats some extras such as are bush brackets etc - small items and finally shock springs blasted only I was expecting it to cost around the 150 mark so is 250-300 reasonable... Also, he mentioned I should go for a satin black rather than the gloss to help hide the rust pits - has anyone done this? Sounds fairly reasonable. I paid a little less than $600 USD for roughly the same work. |
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Post by jwagner on May 17, 2016 3:31:15 GMT
I spent $350 for media blasting and paint and supplies, plus a few days time for mostly DIY media blasting, running back and forth several times to the blasting shop with the next batch of parts, prepping and painting. If I had it to do over again I'd take it somewhere like you guys did.
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Post by NJ. on May 26, 2016 22:37:14 GMT
Thanks guys for your comments re powder coating. I went for it in the end and have got the parts back already.
Hoping to do a proper update soon， but in the meantime I have a couple of quick questions I'm hoping someone can help with.
Firstly does anyone know where I can buy just the washers for the alignment bolts? I can only find the complete bolt set for 8 quid which seems quite expensive when all I really need is the washer...
Secondly， is there any reason to keep the brake dust shields? I've removed the rears already and I'm thinking of chopping the fronts off...
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Post by gwnwar on May 27, 2016 5:51:46 GMT
You need to remove dust plates to mount wing brackets.. As for the camber bolt units if that is 8 quid each for new units that is cheap.
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Post by NJ. on May 27, 2016 8:45:04 GMT
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Post by gwnwar on May 27, 2016 18:07:26 GMT
How are you destroying the washers by removing the nuts over them.. Then tapping out the bolts. In USA the bolt units for new versions of them are around $22.00 each from dealer.
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Post by sparkyman403 on May 27, 2016 19:03:30 GMT
Pair on eBay for a tenner
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Post by NJ. on Jun 4, 2016 12:01:29 GMT
Gwnwar, I destroyed the washer when removing the alignment bolt nuts. The bolts turned with the nut but the little washer was rusted to the subframe on the but side. The little 'tabs' that align the cam washer into the channels in the bolt were torn off as the bolt turned... Sparkyman, I had another look at the bolts and only needed to order 3 so just got them from MX5 parts. I've been fairly busy with the car over the last couple of weeks. First job was to collect the parts from the powder coater...  I also had the springs blasted for painting.  I then tried to fit the SuperPro bushes but found the powder inside the bores was so thick it was stopping the bushes from sitting correctly. I need to grind out the coating and hopefully this will improve the fit. My neighbour Alan kindly offered to let me use a shot blaster at his work, so I spent a couple hours blasting loads of brackets and odds and sods. The shocks came up really well and I'm super pleased how much time this saved me when the alternative was a wire brush on the grinder. (Big thanks Alan )  Most of my time has been spent cleaning up parts and then painting them. My plan is to try and clean up as much as possible before starting the rebuild.    This is where I'm at now, the tide is slowly turning and the clean parts are starting to outnumber the dirty....  |
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Post by NJ. on Jun 28, 2016 23:23:13 GMT
Finally started putting things back together over the weekend. Had some help from a mate so went together fairly easily.   As the link between front and rear subframe is made via the gearbox, the engine is now holding back the rebuild so I'm turning my attention to this.  It's in a pretty sorry state right now but hopefully it'll tidy up.  As you can see it's quite oily, and both the middle and lower belt covers have snapped at the fixing bolt areas so I'm planning to replace them. In fact the bottom cover has a deep wear groove in it from the crank dampener thats been rubbing.   So to tidy the engine visually I'm planning to degrease and paint it. From a mechanical point of view, I'll be replacing the timing belt and water pump, along with the cam seals. Is it worth replacing anything else? The engine is pretty oily and it seems that most of the oil is from the cam cover gasket.. but it's hard to tell exactly where it's coming from so are there any other seals to replace? Maybe the crank seal? Probably being stupid but my engine have one of the leaky CAS? - where I think it should be seems blanked off at the back right in the picture above i.e. no through hole out the casting? Also, bit random but how can you tell which way round the ARB drop links go? As my car is the mk2 I gather each position is unique except I've removed all four and can't work out which ones go where? Is it the longer links at the rear? Asking as had to cut one when removing so need to order... |
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Post by Trenon on Jun 29, 2016 0:21:29 GMT
Did you blast your brake rotors? Is that a good idea? I've never seen anyone do that before.
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Post by gwnwar on Jun 29, 2016 3:30:47 GMT
I would replace the crank seal too. Before you remove the timing belt, break loose the cam and crank bolts line up all 3 marks crank and cam gears on backing plate and mark them on plate.. Put 2 wrenches on the cams and clamp them together so cams don't move. Intake cam will rotate 2 teeth if not held in place. With tensioner locked to the loose position. After belt put on no slack on idler pulley side or between gears.. All marks lined up..Remove wrenches.. Make sure you rotate the crank CW 1 5/6 turns and line up the tensioner mark on crank gear 60 deg from the TDC mark.. Then loose tensioner lock bolt to release pulley to let it put tension on belt and then torque bolt to 28>38 ft. lbs. Then rotate crank CW again 2 1/6 turns all marks should line up again.. You should have 19 tits of the belt BETWEEN the top marks on the cams. If you do you are ready to button it up.. If not start over with lining up marks belt off. Check www.miata.net/garage/ in the Maintenance section for more info and pics of TB. When replacing cam cover don't forget the 6 dabs of RTV at the cam towers base to stop leaks.. Look at.. Best I have used.. Lisle Shaft Type Seal Puller 58430 UK eBay item number: 351770221891 At the least cut a piece of plastic from a small water bottle to install/wrap over the seal surface of cam and crank so you don't score it up.. Build is looking god so far like the way the shocks came out.. |
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Post by sparkyman403 on Jun 29, 2016 8:06:55 GMT
Hi NJ I've got a pair of driop links you can have I bought them in error , I think they are mk2 type holes are at right angles to each other . If they are any good to you you can have them
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