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Post by gwnwar on Feb 26, 2016 0:17:38 GMT
Std S had the 14" wheels
Sports S had 15" wheels Both have same shocks and springs nothing special.
Hard S had Bilestin shocks, Sport springs, 12mm rear bar and STB.
above is for 2000 and older.. 2001+ changed some wheels, brakes and shocks..
With that mileage you will most likely change shocks..you can do that later after built..
check the rear rubber bump stops they should or will be dried out and in piece. replace these.
If you haven't already check out and join Miata.net forum lots of good info in Garage and FAQ
section also in main forum body. Use the Search button to get info too.
Wire brush all the underside bolts you have sprayed they will come off easier.
You can push the wire harness from battery down through hole and leave till later to remove.
Drain tank might have drain left front bottom pull after body off..
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Post by NJ. on Mar 2, 2016 22:09:50 GMT
So the weekend went well, it took a little longer than expected but the body is now removed from the PPF  I'm sure there's a good reason but did they really have to make the rear bolts so long? I got two of the nuts half undone and then the rust and grime gummed them up and meant the welds on the stud broke. Bit of a pain but once the body was in the air they were easy enough to cut off. 
The PPF parked back in the garage with surprisingly less room than before as everything in the car is now sat on the floor... 
Bit of mixed emotions on splitting the body. Feels like a big step forward but looking at the PPF its also clear there's lots more work to do... Spent the last few evenings removing the fuel tank and slowly starting to strip the PPF/engine. Once the shell is scrapped this weekend it'll free the axle stands up so I can start work on the subframes. |
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Post by davetherave on Mar 2, 2016 22:21:25 GMT
well done on getting to this stage what colour kit are you going to go for
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Post by NJ. on Mar 2, 2016 22:52:06 GMT
Dave - not sure on colour yet. I really like the all black exocet in the autumn leaves but I also like the ariel atom 3.5r colour scheme with white frame, black panels + yellow highlights. I'm kinda ignoring for now as I have the PPF to sort out...
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Post by davetherave on Mar 3, 2016 20:22:11 GMT
Hi NJ just had a look on line at the Atom looks nice in the white and black good luck with the build and please keep the pics and posts coming
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Post by NJ. on Mar 6, 2016 22:35:58 GMT
Thanks Dave - It seems that 'Shane' is also planning the same colour scheme as me but he's a little further ahead so it'll be interesting to see how his turns out. Anyways, I managed to spend a few hours on the car this weekend. Only been working on the car this afternoon/evening but I've made good progress on stripping the rear end down. Everything came apart quite nicely, although I did manage to rip the little locating tabs off from one of the lower wishbone adjustment cam things so need to order a couple of more. I couldn't budge the insert pins where the PPF aluminum bar meets the diff, it was late and the hammer pounding was pretty noisy for the neighbours. Hopefully a soak in plus gas will free them up tomorrow. The half shafts came out easily enough and revealed the inner workings of the diff. I'm pleased as I think there is finally proof its a torsen type II according to the spotters guide on miata.net - www.miata.net/garage/diffguide/I've put a photo up so let me know if I'm wrong... Anyways, here are some pictures of the progress    
Differential internal shot - there's no spider 'axle' so I think its an LSD. Quick question, do you think I should replace the seals for both the driveshaft and the two half shafts? There didn't appear to be any leaks on either but I'm wondering if its a recommended replacement? Is there any maintenance I should do for the diff whilst its easily accessible?  O, I also couldn't remove the rear subframe from the differential as although the main securing bolts came apart easily, the 12mm bolts on the underside are all rounded. Think they'll need cutting off with the grinder. So, next steps are to finish stripping the rear subframe, and then I plan to remove the gearbox and somehow mount it in the new engine stand I purchased for cleaning and painting. Happy Days |
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Post by gwnwar on Mar 7, 2016 17:09:50 GMT
Do you mean you can't turn the 2 long bolts that hold the PPF to the diff.. Or that they just won't drop down..Lots of spray on out sides and down the top side of PPF..Only use a 6 point socket on heads of bolts.. If you can turn bolts enough to clear bollom of the nut plate on top wire brush bolts clean and tap down with a drift pin.. The front bolt also pushes a sleeve up into the PPF to lock in place.. That sleeve has to drop about 3/4" To get sleeve down after bolt out thread a long bolt M14 x 1.5 up into the sleeve and knock down to release PPF from diff.
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Post by NJ. on Mar 9, 2016 22:47:48 GMT
gwnwar - The bolts all came out without too much trouble, I just can't get the plug things out. From videos it seems the single plug has to be removed first, then you can thread the PPF bolts up and knock the two top plugs out. But I've spent cumulatively about half an hour pounding the plug with a chisel and I've got it out about 1mm. I've just let it be for now and have been spraying it every now and then with PG. I'm just conscious of making too much noise after 7/8ish so will try again at the weekend where I can let loose Yesterday and today I've been stripping the front end down. I'm amazed at some of the wishbone bolts - the top front one is huge... Most of the bolts came apart easily although the spilt pins on the castle nuts are a right pain. I've sheared through a couple of them so will need to drill them out later. I've also left splitting the ball joints from the hubs as neither of my splitters fit very well. I may need to order a new tool but we'll see.   I also removed the gearbox today. It went well except I got the balance wrong on the hoist which meant the gear stick end dropped after removing. Being curious as soon as it came off I had a look at the clutch and innards of the box and when I turned round I found a lovely gear fluid puddle on the floor.... Lesson learn't - drain the box next time or keep it level.   The 'to clean' pile is getting bigger...  So, the plan tomorrow is to remove the engine to free up the front subframe. Stupid question probably, but I assume its ok to rest the engine on its oil pan on the floor until I'm ready to tackle cleaning it? Just worried about it being strong enough to support the weight without bending/deforming. |
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Post by gwnwar on Mar 10, 2016 5:08:46 GMT
Good work so far.. on the PPF once the bolts are out there is only a sleeve that the front bolt pushed up.. You have to get it to drop.. That is were the long bolt M14 x 1.5 comes in screw it up into the sleeve and after cleaning the rust from sleeve tap it down that will free the PPF. Do NOT take the nut plates that long bolts screw into off the top of the PPF.. These are a knurl fitting to stop them from turning when torquing the long bolts. If they do come loose then on reassembling PPF to diff stake the nuts to the PPF a few times to hold in place.. I have done this a few times.. There is also a sleeve on the bottom side of PPF that the front bolt goes through that needs to be popped out. It goes inside the spacer block. This is the easy one remove.. there is a knock in it to put chisel in to start it moving. remove completely set aside for reinstall.
Breaking the split pins on castle nut is no big thing just use a small drift pin to punch out..
To get the ball joints from upright. loosen nut and then put a ball peen hammer to the upright and hit it with a BFH bigger hammer. works for both top and bottom. If you can have pressure pushing the joint down/out it will help.
You will find fluid in the turret under the shiftier too at least there should be.. Rebuild shiftier before install it and fill turret.
You can put oil pan on ground it will hold the weight of the engine. I would put wood block under the higher part and under mounts to keep it upright.
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Post by jgilbert on Mar 10, 2016 21:35:57 GMT
Good progress. Remember to remove the clutch and flywheel before you try to mount it on your engine stand.
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Post by NJ. on Mar 13, 2016 20:18:53 GMT
Yeah thanks jgilbert， I figured the clutch and flywheel would probably have to come off. Also I've been reading your build thread and I'm thinking of painting my gearbox the same way. So thought I'd ask how is the paint holding up? I assume the etch primer gave the hammerite a good coating to grip onto and it hasnt corroded or started to peel or flake?
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Post by jgilbert on Mar 13, 2016 23:37:35 GMT
Paint is still very good no flaking. Make sure the box is clean. Wire brush in a drill helps key the surface. The prep is the most important bit.
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Post by NJ. on Apr 13, 2016 22:07:54 GMT
So, it's been a while but figured it's time for an update... I managed to get rid of the shell, although I had to pay £30 as no scrappy would touch it. The guy picked it up first thing on a Saturday and the weather couldn't have been more fitting - overcast and thick fog... 
A friend came over for the weekend an gave me a hand stripping the rest of the car sub frames. We also finally managed to split the PPF link from the diff. The ball joints were all split apart from the hubs, with only one close call of unintended splitting when the small ball joint shot off between my mates legs... lol Dave... We also started work on burning out the bushes.  I also decided to refurb the brake calipers myself rather than buy refurb units. To clean the parts I built an electrolysis tank. 
It does a good job of stripping back the rust and even the thicker/larger crusty stuff just falls off with a little wire brushing.  New seals + reassembled caliper pics.   
I'm pleased with the results and feel happier knowing the brakes should function without fault. Just trying to decide whether its worth refurbishing the discs or if I should buy new discs with the new pads i'll be getting... Also made good progress cleaning the gearbox and ppf bar so I'm hoping to spray them tomorrow if the weather holds. |
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 13, 2016 23:09:57 GMT
Remembers there is a screw under the 14mm bolt head on the rear calipers to move piston in/out. Don't try to compress with a C clamp or the like.. you will break the adjustment unit.. Nice work so far..
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Post by mawdo81 on Apr 14, 2016 18:13:00 GMT
Are you painting or treating the brakes? If not they'll start to rust sharpish. I wouldn't bother with the discs, for piece of mind go new.
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