NJ's Basingstoke Build (UK)

[sparkyman403]

Hi nick
Did you get your 14 MM bolt to remove sleeve on ppf/dig locally (basingstoke) as I'm finding it difficult to get one , I can get one off eBay but thought locally would be quicker as kit arrives in two weeks and I need to get moving on it
John ( tadley)

[snowbird1]

The long bolt from the front upper wishbone is M14 X 1.5 - I think that will do the job.

[sparkyman403]

Many thanks snowbird1

[sparkyman403]

Maybe I'm being a bit of a dumb ar*e but I don't think the locking coller has a thread in it
Do you just wind the bolt in best you can my bolt won't screw in as there is no thread in the collet any ideas please

[NJ.]

Hi John.

Yes the two collers that are threaded I removed using the long subframe bolts inserted backwards.
The coller I think you are struggling with that locks the PPF to the rear Diff like you say doesn't have any thread.
I really struggled with it as well but it should have a little slot under it between the Ali PPF bar, and the top flange of the coller.
You can get a crowbar or chisel under the slot and gradually work it free...
It took me ages (maybe 30mins in total) of hammering and prying to remove it.
I found it also helped to move the PPF around (I assume you have both bolts out) whilst prying as if it hangs it loads the coller and grips it, resisting your efforts to remove it.

[gwnwar]

The collar on the bottom has to be pried/worked down..
The sleeve that goes up with the front bolt needs to slide down.. This is were the 14mm bolt from front A frame come in handy
Before screwing it into the bottom of the sleeve put on the large washer and an old hammer head to make a slide hammer unit.
There are threads in all front bolt sleeves when screwing bolt from bottom of sleeve..
If you happened to remove the top press fit nuts on the top of PPF which you shouldn't have.. hammer them back in and stake
them with a punch a few times on both.. This should help to stop them from turning when long bolts are torqued down..

[sparkyman403]

Cheers guy it now makes more sense . I've not taken the top threaded collets out due to reading previous threads , it is the unthreaded tube that locks the ppf to the diff I'm having problems with , I've got a few ideas of how to shift it now it has been explained . Probably won't be the last time I ask a seemingly stupid question to the forum but many thanks for the help and fast replys

[NJ.]

Maude, I'm using a carbon grey brake calliper paint from Foliatec www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291682686153
Whilst I agree the paint is almost raw metal in colour, I thought the standard mx5 callipers are a little small for bright colours (I considered yellow) and I've always found coloured callipers dirty very quickly with brake dust etc.
The two part paint itself is very good though and will cover all four callipers with plenty to spare.

So here's an update on progress for the last few days...

I copied jgilberts spray paint suggestions and sprayed up my gearbox and the aluminium strut.



Used acid etch primer and hammerite smooth silver top coat.

I also had to drill out 3 of the four bolts that hold the rubber diff mounts as they sheared during removal.
Should've taken more time on these when removing but I will probably weld new bolts in so no big deal.



I've also started work on stripping the power steering as I plan to de-power it.





The end cap on the left was hard to remove as the rack/thread area was damaged underneath from impacts and most of the threads stripped. I guess it no longer has to hold fluid though so I'm hoping it won't be a problem. Obviously I will cut and remove the centre seal, but I've also heard about people welding up the pinion/input shaft from the steering wheel so I need to figure that out. Also, I assume I don't need to put the seal/fluid distribution washer back? Or is this used to help stabilise the shaft?

I managed to fix my old Cebora pocket turbo 130 welder (the plastic wire feed unit exploded with the stresses over time) and started work on the 'glamour' caps for the suspension arms.







I'll buy a finer flap disc to improve the finish but so far I've welded 3 of the 8 so it's going to take a while...

[sparkyman403]

Cheers guys
It now makes more sense , think I misunderstood what I read ,it is the unthreaded tube I'm having problems with but got a few ideas of how to move it now

[jgilbert]

NJ, nice work, Trident would be proud that his suspension are idea is being used

[jgilbert]

NJ, even better news, you only need to 'cap' the front upper and lower and rear lower. So only 6 out of 8. Top rear is IVA exempt as its with the suspension area defined but the bottom arm.

[NJ.]

Ha yeah jgilbert, I think tridents idea will become more common as people start to do it and see it on the forums.
Looking at my pics the rear tops are smooth anyways so I can omit them but I forgot about the front top arms... so I actually have 12 to do in total
I'm only putting the plates on the outside faces of each arm, it would take me all day to plate the inside as well. Also I'm using 0.75mm plate which I thought would be too thin but it's proving easy to form to the arms.

Also, has anyone welded up their pinion for the steering rack? If so, did you do it yourself or take it to a professional?
Only asking as I've been reading these links and now I'm in two minds as to do it or not.
I need to take a closer look at the control valve area as mine has a metal pin in that I've not seen on other peoples welding photos.
(you can see it on the top of the shaft behind the bearing) I assume the pin is left in place and welded around?

forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=335874
www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1709/Project-Miatabusa-Part-5--De-Powering-the-Steering-Rack.aspx

[ian360]

NJ - for what its worth (and I am no expert) I didn't weld mine after depowering. Have the exact same pinion as you. Seems there are differing opinions but as it didn't appear essential and I can't weld or have access to a welder I left it! Not the most engineering of reasons I know, but its all back together and feels ok, although of course haven't driven it yet!

[NJ.]

The central seal for the power steering was removed and the rack is now ready to reassemble.



I've continued welding the wishbones and the end is in sight - only two more to go. So much work for such a small detail...
I saw people get these powder coated - does the ball joint suffer?  The chap I've spoken to thinks they are probably Nylon inside and might melt in the oven?  He was proposing to spray paint these instead...  I think I'll push him to powder them and will remove the rubbers and degrease as much as possible.  As others mentioned, hanging them ball joint down to minimise runs during the baking seems sensible so I will convey this to the coater.



I'm aiming to drop the parts off/meet the powder coater on Tuesday next week.
So is there anything else I should do the the arms, frames or parts prior to coating?
Also, what sort of cost should I be expecting to pay? I'm going in blind having never coating things before but I'm expecting it'll be around the £150 mark.  Would be interesting to find out what others have paid for a baseline....


Took the clutch off the engine today as well - I'm no expert but I guess the wear and now lack of grooves round the inner circumference means it'll need replacing? Theres some interesting shades of blue going on in there too.



Finally, the rubbers on the shock are looking a little worse for wear- is it worth replacing or leaving as is until I upgrade them post IVA? I don't think these were included in my bush kit.

[mikeeyboy]

Hi, like the welding on the wishbones.

Regarding the ball joints - I pushed mine out on a fairly substantial press. My powder coater would not do them with them on, he said it would make a right mess.

I'm not sure you will be able to shift them without the press, they are very tight!