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Post by kiwicanfly on Mar 7, 2016 8:23:41 GMT
If you can establish the bolt grade then the torque setting comes from that, should match the chart for the size.
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Post by h20boynz on Mar 7, 2016 9:01:26 GMT
If you can establish the bolt grade then the torque setting comes from that, should match the chart for the size. Hmmm...its the long stud thats part of the rear subframe itself. No way to determine grade that i can tell? |
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Post by kiwicanfly on Mar 7, 2016 9:26:53 GMT
Bugger, in that case torque till it snaps then back off half a turn  |
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Post by gwnwar on Mar 7, 2016 17:22:42 GMT
If you mean the center nut of the mount 62>72 ft.lbs. The 2 8mm are 7.3>10.8 ft.lbs.
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Post by h20boynz on Mar 7, 2016 18:13:48 GMT
If you mean the center nut of the mount 62>72 ft.lbs. The 2 8mm are 7.3>10.8 ft.lbs. Ah perfect! Thanks  |
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Post by nzexo on Mar 7, 2016 18:56:07 GMT
Adam, I recommend putting the rear subframe on the upsidedown chassis to give you somewhere to aim for when making your fixed brake line that runs front to rear.
The splitter block is the target, and if you have the thing there it makes it much easier IMO.
If you have the diff on there too, it'll be pretty heavy. I prefer to build the rear end back up with the subframe already in place on my builds. Still, there's no right or wrong on this!
Same goes for the other end, attach temporarily the brake booster for your target at the front.
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Post by h20boynz on Mar 8, 2016 4:37:32 GMT
Adam, I recommend putting the rear subframe on the upsidedown chassis to give you somewhere to aim for when making your fixed brake line that runs front to rear. The splitter block is the target, and if you have the thing there it makes it much easier IMO. If you have the diff on there too, it'll be pretty heavy. I prefer to build the rear end back up with the subframe already in place on my builds. Still, there's no right or wrong on this! Same goes for the other end, attach temporarily the brake booster for your target at the front. Sounds like good advice, thanks. I had visions of dropping the frame over my sparkly skate, all assembled and immaculate, but the reality is it will be a lot easier to take your suggested approach. This does mean however that I don't have a lot to do until my frame arrives..ROLL ON APRIL 23! |
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Post by h20boynz on Mar 17, 2016 7:38:17 GMT
Well things slowed down on the build a little thanks to work and the usual family responsibilities but thanks to NZEXO here on the forum my mojo has been reignited and progress is back on track. Tom was kind enough to leave me with his Exocet for the weekend recently and it was awesome! It really is a pleasure to drive and with the turbo to put a smile on your face it is the perfect escape from the day to day drudgery. Thanks again Tom!!! So, my frame is ordered and due late April so I am chomping at the bit whilst I await delivery. My build has taken a rather substantial departure from the original plan. Tom's turbo has convinced me to chase some power, and chase it I shall! Im dropping the engine off tomorrow to the engine builders along with a box of go fast bits. Here's the guts of the package: CP Pistons (84mm 9.0:1 CR PT#SC7542) Eagle H Beam Rods (PT# CRS5233M3D - 900hp rated! lol ) ARP Studs all round ACL Bearings all round Cometic metal head gasket (PT#C4560) Billet Oil Pump (949Racing) Coolant re-route (949Racing) Gates Racing Timing belt and pulleys (949Racing) Custom exhaust manifold (probably www.sincocustoms.co.nz/ but I will wait until the engine is in the car before having this fabricated, along with the downpipe and exhaust) Garrett GT2871R .60 A/R turbo (Thanks to Bay Turbos www.bayturbosltd.com/index.html)Link G4+ Storm ECU (Thanks to Bay Turbos www.bayturbosltd.com/index.html)Injectors and cooling yet to be decided upon. Other than uprated valve springs I will leave the head alone for now, unless something pops up once they get the head off. Plus all the other bits and pieces and labour...was a bit more than I intended to spend but bugger it. Say goodbye to the old plonker:    |
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Post by kiwicanfly on Mar 17, 2016 8:03:56 GMT
...was a bit more than I intended to spend but bugger it. Love it I think every kit should come with a tee shirt with that on the back |
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Post by mawdo81 on Mar 17, 2016 18:56:58 GMT
...was a bit more than I intended to spend but bugger it. Love it I think every kit should come with a tee shirt with that on the back But they should never be worn near the Boss! |
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Post by h20boynz on Mar 18, 2016 3:08:36 GMT
Quick question for anyone who is running a coolant re-route, do I need to keep the heater loop in or can I just block this off at the rear housing and at the front/lower housing? i.e I would like to lose the metal pipe running along under the exhaust manifold but if I have to keep a loop from this housing to the rear housing I guess I would have to keep it.  |
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Post by h20boynz on Mar 21, 2016 8:49:10 GMT
Without question the nutsTIEST job I have done on the build to date....cleaning all of the oxidation off the gearbox ready for paint F.M.L but nearly there   |
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Post by h20boynz on Mar 28, 2016 7:01:52 GMT
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Post by h20boynz on Apr 28, 2016 3:55:14 GMT
BIG day! I picked up the entire kit today...just need to get work out of the way so I can get home and investigate more thoroughly! I'd like to publicly apologise to my family for the lack of personal attention they are about to endure  |
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Post by h20boynz on May 2, 2016 23:53:44 GMT
I have the frame upside down to fit the brake/fuel lines. Is the alignment shown below in red about right? I don't want to end up putting it in the way of anything else.  |
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