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Post by tojeiro on Feb 1, 2017 12:10:31 GMT
westie, any bits in particular that I should think about access once body is on, fuse box is one that I am trying to find space for at the moment. My plan is similar to yours but since I am at an earlier stage any advice from lessons learned would be appreciated.
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Post by stevednorris on Feb 1, 2017 14:02:39 GMT
Hi Westie,
Is the fog lamp "E" marked, an extract from the IVA manual:
All rear fog lamps must display an “e” or “E” mark with a “B” or “F”
Worth checking.
Regards,
Steve.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 2, 2017 7:20:50 GMT
Hi Westie, Is the fog lamp "E" marked, an extract from the IVA manual: All rear fog lamps must display an “e” or “E” mark with a “B” or “F” Worth checking. Regards, Steve. I will check it, not an issue to put something else in for IVA if required.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 2, 2017 7:33:54 GMT
westie, any bits in particular that I should think about access once body is on, fuse box is one that I am trying to find space for at the moment. My plan is similar to yours but since I am at an earlier stage any advice from lessons learned would be appreciated. There are three I need to address. The first is easy, make sure the tank for the cooling is far enough in, I can get to mine but it is partially covered by the body, easy to sort this one. The next two create some work and some planning. There is a natural route for the wiring to come through the firewall to engine bay, following the route used in the MX5. This route will put both fuse boxes out of easy reach. Routing anywhere else will create a lot of work with probably extending the loom. On my build I can get to the small fuses, with a struggle, the large fuses are out of reach. The reroute of wiring is one of my main reasons for needing to remove the body. I will probably have to add extra wiring and sensors when I change to separate dials as well so body off will really help with this work.
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Post by john on Feb 2, 2017 21:21:16 GMT
Really need to sort out paying you a visit mate with my note pad and camera once I have my electrics sorted.
I'm juggling about 10 different things in my head , exhaust, electrics, harnesses and lights.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2017 12:02:29 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2017 12:13:27 GMT
This is the original
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Post by R2S on Mar 23, 2017 13:10:51 GMT
Top job, how much to make a another pair only joking.
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2017 6:41:43 GMT
This was at the Stoneleigh show, in the Westfield Owners Club tent. Dyno tested at 334bhp Food for thought
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2017 11:17:18 GMT
Few little updates I have started fixing a few niggles, basically things that were not quite right but I decided to get to them later. First one off the list was a wobbly dash, it wasn't locked to the car and I suspected would make the rear view mirror unusable. It now has a new bracket which has firmed it up. Reversing light. This has never worked and may not of worked on the donor. After some time spent with a multimeter and power probe the fault was identified as corrosion in the plug on the gearbox, a little scrape and some WD40 and all is good The rear fog did not have the IVA required 'E' stamps on it which has now been changed. I have started adding some supports for the front of the car, it is a little bit wobbly but with these new brackets it has firmed up. Still got one side to do but the difference is great.
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Post by gwnwar on May 23, 2017 20:17:43 GMT
What do you think of glassing in a bar of metal to the inside just below the bracket to spread the bracing out.. To be more then just a bolt head on the outside.. Might stop the bolt from pulling through the body.. If you are going to do more braces maybe weld a bolt to a piece of stock and glass it into the body so no blot seen from outside.. Tail end look nice and clean.
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2017 20:46:26 GMT
Could look at extra bracing later. Currently the plan is to take the body off when it gets the retro fit after IVA and after I have had some fun with it. That would be the time to look at a better solution as the body will not be coming off again, for now I want the body to be stiff but removable at a later date. The nose on my Westfield has a single bolt underneath that has been ok for six years but I take your point and the nose on the Replicar is a much larger piece.
Have tried hard to keep the rear looking uncluttered but with all the bits needed back there it is not easy.
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Post by Deleted on May 26, 2017 7:23:24 GMT
I am always looking for something interesting to do to my Replicar. I have been looking into an engine upgrade for a while, something with six cylinders and I have come across this site www.rocketeerltd.com/ they do a kit to fit a 3.0 V6 Jaguar engine. All the hard work done, new subframe, adapter plate for gearbox, you need to sort out ecu, exhaust and a few other bits but it looks like a good option. What do people think?
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Post by R2S on May 26, 2017 9:08:44 GMT
Stuarts been banging on about this conversion for some time, I think its even in part of the new MEV advertising blurb (read so much stuff cant remember exactly where). Seems a logical engine (a six) for the Replicar, even if its V and not straight, to give it the six rattle (similar to the flat six in the Black Pig). I need to get my thing built before thinking about any engine swap but money allowing I think its something Id consider.
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Post by tojeiro on May 26, 2017 11:08:25 GMT
It seems expensive but when you start comparing to LS V8 with new gearbox then is makes more sense.
Like the retention of gearbox and standard MX5 PPF.
Long term plan for me after IVA is an engine swap and this is on the potential list. Think for the kit car guys (assuming not going for new reg) the Expert conversion kit at £1662 + VAT makes most sense.
2nd hand engines are cheap and I could custom fab the exhausts anyway and other bits could be picked up along the way.
Would need to check the height, if it's tight on MX5 it could be an issue on the Replicar.
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