Isle of Wight Build

[gwnwar]

Break the axle nuts now before up on stands. You will need the weight of the car and maybe a block to keep wheels from turning.
You could knock it off the stands while doing axle nuts..

[jon]

Jan 23, 2016 23:48:31 GMT gwnwar said:

Break the axle nuts now before up on stands. You will need the weight of the car and maybe a block to keep wheels from turning.
You could knock it off the stands while doing axle nuts..

I second this.

I just did it. The parking brake (and even with someone pushing on the brake pedal) wasn't enough to hold the axles when trying to remove the axle nuts.

I had to put the wheels on, lower the car, and add a pipe extension to my breaker bar. I pulled so hard upward I started to lift the car. It finally gave from me putting my feet against the rear wheels and doing a row motion with all my strength. The breaker bar was starting to bend... lucky I didn't break anything.

[trident]

When you say Tub.... do you mean the chassis... if so don't forget you need to cut out the chassis number and keep hold of it for the registration process once the build is done and you have passed iva. It all helps with getting the age related plate and not a Q plate.

[pleurotus]

Ok. Axle nut with wheels on. Have a 2m piece of scaffold.

Yes the chassis, thanks for the reminder, where is the chassis number to be found is that the same as the VIN?

[pleurotus]

Hub nuts done. Dead easy <1 hr for all - only because I took note of everyone’s advice!
Front :- Jacked up, chocked, wheel off, knocked out centre cover. Handbrake off, prised off grease cap (need to turn wheels) with hammer and screwdriver, punched out stake, handbrake on, wheel on, back on ground.
29mm impact socket on new 18" breaker bar,+ 2m Ali scaffold pipe. Done.

Rears were the same except no grease cap, 32mm impact socket and no need for extension -came off with the breaker bar.

If I did not know what to expect I would have been fighting with that for ages so thanks all.

[pleurotus]

Stripping in progress

[pleurotus]

So stripping continues.
Anybody tell me what the heck this is (fuel something?) and how do I get the connectors off please! It won't quite clear the chassis to be left on and I cant find it in the manual. Ta!

[pleurotus]

Also is it my imagination or can I take 80% of the car apart with a 10mm socket!

Will I be able to re-use the Master Cyl-> ABS block piping if so is it best to just disconnect the pipes at the Master and take the ABS all off in one?

[snowbird1]

Feb 3, 2016 15:10:03 GMT pleurotus said:

So stripping continues.
Anybody tell me what the heck this is (fuel something?) and how do I get the connectors off please! It won't quite clear the chassis to be left on and I cant find it in the manual. Ta!

It's a fuel pulsation damper - there is another one on the fuel rail. There is no return line from the fuel rail, the opening and closing of the injectors can cause pulses in the fuel rail resulting in unequal volumes of fuel being injected, don't know what would happen it you deleted it - probably not much!

BTW don't discard the 'quick connect' fuel line connectors, they are hard to find and expensive to replace.

As you donor is and 'Arizona' model there should be no rust on it!!

[gwnwar]

You can buy a tool to undo the fuel connectors. it opens like a scissor.. "Fuel Line Disconnect Scissor Tool" look for a 5/16 8mm size.. Check your auto parts store or Ebay ebay number 351441000353 for pic. It slides in from tube side to disconnect unit.. don't have to squeeze it just push it in..You will need tool for fuel filter and hoses on tank. Cost around $7.00
Are you going to keep the ABS?? If not you will need to get a new master and proportion valve from a non ABS car.
You will be making up new brake lines for car. Reuse the one between the rear cly. attached to rear sub frame and the block.

[pleurotus]

Yes I will be keeping the ABS - I was wondering if the relative positions in the Exocet will be the same so I can keep the stock pipework between the cylinder and ABS block - all the connecting pipes seem to run across the top of the firewall as in pic a few up?

Thanks for the tool reference - you are a mine of information! I'll hunt one down

Snowbird - thanks for the ID at least it was not something obvious - no reason not to keep it. Yep lots of sand in the bodywork! Though bizarrely I have not rounded off or even snapped a single bolt/screw yet - long way to go though.

THE most useful tool(s) I have bought so far was a £6 /$10 trim removal kit : Part no 300769370465




Update
Ordered a set of "fuel line coupling disconnect pliers" that includes the 5/16 8mm one. Happy about that as I hate not having the right tools.
ebay

[pleurotus]

So I bought this set of special removers - but none of them work unless there is a  technique I am missing!

[gwnwar]

Those are the wrong type they are for rubber slip on hoses.. Go to eBay and put in "Fuel Line Disconnect Scissor Tool"
you will see what they look like you will need 5/16" 8mm size.. you just clamp around fuel tube lightly and push into the connector
that should release it from tube pull off..

[pleurotus]

OK so none of those tools are going to work and metal scissors suggested only from USA. ..But I made a tool that does work in about 20s.

Mk2.5 fuel line quick connect/disconnect tool

You will need 1 x plastic plumbing pipe 15mm insert -  I used the cheap polyplumb one on the left but the Speedfit one on the right should work too but much stiffer so a bigger slot may be needed

Cut a 5mm slot, clip over pipe, slide up under fitting. Done.

[gwnwar]

Good show just needed a pic of what was needed. now put it in the special tool draw.. Were you able to return the other tools??