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Post by Trenon on Jun 1, 2016 21:08:08 GMT
Forgot to post a picture with the glass in. The guys did a good job of installing it.  Next question. This engine has the Boundary Engineering Billet High Flow Oil Pump installed in it. The oil pressure flutters at lower RPM. I've never had an aftermarket oil pump is this normal? Video below: |
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Post by jwagner on Jun 1, 2016 21:39:00 GMT
So mostly you just live with it then? Just deciding how anal I want to be about the miscellaneous sounds. Yes. If there were obnoxious buzzes and rattles I'd try to track them down (and did fix the hood), but it's mostly a car for autocross/track. The VMaxx coilovers are pretty punishing on Wisconsin roads and make things noisier than running on the softer stock suspension. |
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Post by gwnwar on Jun 2, 2016 1:43:02 GMT
Oil pressure should be steady.. Are you running the '94 OEM sender and gauge. If OEM the sender case may have twisted on the base
or a loose connection at it.. A NB sender is just an on/off switch doesn't read high/low pressure.. I would put a good manual gauge on block.. Most after market gauges are 1/8-27 NPT..
Make sure to use the 1/8-27 NPT Female to 1/8 BSPT Male Gauge Sensor Sender Thread Adapter Reducer so you don't screw up the threads. and don't put tape on threads of electric gauges senders they won't ground..
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Post by Trenon on Jun 2, 2016 1:54:23 GMT
I put on an aftermarket sender. This is the one I put in. www.summitracing.com/parts/SMP-PS59I used proper adapters. I was talking to one of the local Miata guru's and he was telling me the stock NA senders have a built in damper to stop the pressure gage from fluctuating as mine is now. Later years they built it into the gage. I'm guessing the issue is the aftermarket sender has no damper nor does the gage in the car. It stops fluttering at higher RPM and I always have good pressure If you don't put tape on the threads how do they seal? NPT threads aren't toleranced tight enough to get a mechanical seal without damn near stripping them. |
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Post by Trenon on Jun 2, 2016 5:20:44 GMT
In case anyone was wondering you can change the timing belt without opening the valve cover if you have no plastic guards and a cut valve cover. You'll also probably want the FM cam gear holder tool.
I took my exhuast cam off and measured it in my lathe, it was bent 47 thousands. I may try and straighten it later but for now I put a stock one in. Luckily I still have my old engine to scavenge parts off of.
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Post by gwnwar on Jun 2, 2016 5:29:55 GMT
Do you have the sender (large 3" long) for a 89>94 car with real gauge.. or the small 1" that the later mx5 use to show yes/no pressure.. Just looked at what you got it is not for a miata.. A miata unit new is around $180.00 Do you still have your old engine and sender?? To seal the sender if you must DON'T put tape or sealant on the first 1/3" of the threads so it will ground its self..
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Post by Trenon on Jun 2, 2016 5:50:36 GMT
The original was a 94, it was the long one. about 1 - 1.5" in diameter and 2-3" long. I replaced it with the one I linked as I needed to add a feed for my turbo and the brutish taper fittings are hard to come by so i switched it out to NPT.
I fully taped all the joints. Teflon easily get cut out of the way with the threads. The sender has to go through 4 taped threaded joints. I'll go measure the resistance from the sender to the block. I'm extremely doubtful its a grounding issue. It's highly repeatable and predictable whereas grounding problems are more sporadic. It also goes away at higher RPM....not necessarily higher pressure.
This is what youd see on a pressure gage of a positive displacement pump discharge. I never realized motors use gear pumps as oil pumps. Gear pumps are a type of positive displacement pump. They pulse under normal operation. I'm most likely seeing every pulse when the car is idling slow and once the pulses get fast enough the resolution of the sender isn't good enough to pick them up any more. Well I feel better about that.
The stock sender must have a damper or some sort of averaging mechanism in it to hid the pulses from the gage.
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Post by Trenon on Jun 3, 2016 21:27:34 GMT
Passed inspection this morning. The car is now fully road legal in Canada.
I still have lots of things i want to do to it but at least I can enjoy it on nice days.
In other news I will probably sell off my 2013 HD night rod special since I have a new summer toy.
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Post by Trenon on Jun 8, 2016 23:49:22 GMT
So I am very new to having a built engine and I don't really know what I should limit my boost to. The engine I bought has the follwoing:
1.9L BP Engine
Garage AutoHero Built
M-Tuned/Eagle H Beam Rods
Wiseco 9:1 Pistons 1mm Overbore
ACL Race Bearings
ARP Main & Head Stud Hardware
Boundary Engineering Billet High Flow Oil Pump
Supertech Springs & Titanium Retainers
99’ Spec Head - Mild Port and Polish
Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gears
Begi Intake Manifold + 70mm Throttle Body
Any Ideas on what kind of boost #'s should be ok on an engine built this way? I'm running the FMII turbo setup with knock detection and whatnot.
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Post by steadfast on Jun 9, 2016 1:37:47 GMT
I think 60-90psi should be fine...
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Post by Trenon on Jun 9, 2016 3:18:00 GMT
so helpful
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Post by gwnwar on Jun 9, 2016 4:06:00 GMT
I would be getting with the builders of the engine they should have a good idea of what boost it will hold to. You need to find a good dyno
shop to do tune at after engine is broken in. What ECU are you using.. See what cam and spark timing works best for you.
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Post by Trenon on Jun 9, 2016 6:28:58 GMT
I bought the engine used. It's from a drift car. I fully plan to get everything tuned. The engine is well past its break in period.
I'm using Hydra EMS from flyin miata.
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Post by gwnwar on Jun 9, 2016 18:10:12 GMT
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Post by Trenon on Jun 9, 2016 21:00:50 GMT
Yes from what I'm told.
I'm the 5th owner since it was built there. It was built for a drift car. Then I'm told they wanted a stronger drive train so they went with a different power plant and sold this to someone in the US. He never used it and sold it to a guy here in Alberta, who never used it and sold it to another guy in Alberta, who never used it, who sold it to me. I know who the last 2 owners were but neither of them actually ran the engine.
I think it was built a fair amount of time ago and has spent quite a few years sitting in peoples garage. I know the guy I bought it from had it for at least 3 years.
The only thing I have found wrong with it so far is the bent exhaust cam sprocket which was most likely from one of the many times it was moved / shipped. Funny enough the guy that I bought the engine from bought my miata shell from the person I sold all my unneeded parts to. The miata community is a small world up here.
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