Chasis 138 checking in from Alberta, Canada.

[snowbird1]

Connect a test light between the battery and the terminal + or -, pull fuses, disconnect circuits until the light goes out.

A multimeter with a 10 A setting is ideal but put a 10 amp fuse in line to protect your meter and its internal fuse if it has one.

Normal current draw for ECU memories, clocks etc should be less than 50 mA.

[Trenon]

I imagine the reason I have a draw is the car thinks it on even when the key is off. I'm not great with electrical. Electrical drawings are like greek to me.

Is there a wire that tells the car it's on vs off?

I bought a clamp meter to measure draw but it registers 0 when put around the main lines, must not be accurate enough.

[zeitgeist]

At least on a 99 donor the green/red wire is the first position of the ignition switch to be activated. This powers the 12 V cigarette lighter and radio. Next is the run position which adds the rest of the wires with 12 V red/blk and blk/red and white/blk. If you are referring to something else being powered with the ignition switch off and can only think of lights and horn.

[Trenon]

Do those wires go to ground or +12v when they are on. I seem to recall I cut the red / black and its not attached to anything anymore....that may be it.

I'll stick my  head under there and have a look. 

[Trenon]

Ok every time put the meter across btn 40a fuse the fuel pump relay fires the fuel pump with the key off. What is btn for? Should it have power when the car is off?

[Trenon]

Also across the top 2 fuel injector relay pins I have a 1.4 amp draw. Is that normal?

[Trenon]

It's the 40a green btn fuse. 1.8 amp draw after the fuel pump turn off. Looks like it feeds white with a red stripe which goes all over the place.

[Trenon]

Ok now im stumped...I looked through the Mazda wiring diagrams and I only find a reference to the BTN fuse in the 1993 and earlier models. The 94 does not have any reference to the BTN fuse....

Its the 40a green one.


In the wiring diagram the 94 and newer models the white/red says its fed by main relay, mines fed from BTN fuse...I'm lost.

[Trenon]

So btn is always hot. I had it wired to the switched white red as well. They both come from the main fuse block. As far as I can tell btn feeds the following fuses: room, stop and hazard. I can't find a diagram that shows it.

Whereas the white red from the main relay feeds the ecu, fuel pump relay, injectors data link, camshaft sensor and maf.

Now when I check draw with the key off I get 0.

Thanks for the help guys. Didn't really know to start fixing this.

[zeitgeist]

Sorry for delaying in responding but I'm glad you got it figured out. I was working on my hesitation issue with some success but not totally fixed.

[Trenon]

Finally got around to getting my windshield bent




And now I'm working on some tubing between the windshield and roll bar. Rolling 1.5" 0.12" wall dom tubing by hand is a good workout.

[Trenon]

Forgot to post the welded pics of my exhaust

3" stainless dp / high flow cat to 2.5" magnaflow with dual 2.5" tips.

[jsmith]

Looks good.  Any issues with the tubing twisting when using the harbor freight roller bender?  In other words, after the bend can you lay the bent piece of tube on the ground and have it still be flat?

Thanks.

[Trenon]

It appears to be flat. I had to stop and restart a few times so even if it wasn't I wouldn't know if it was the roller or me stopping and starting out of alignment. Also the set screws are not up to rolling something of this magnitude. A keyed shaft would be much better.

[jsmith]

I have the same roller bender. I ended up drilling through the shaft where the set screw goes and using about a 10/32" machine screw as a shear pin.  Even doing that it wanted to bend the screw with the larger tubing.  My roller was also wanting to cork screw the bigger material.  Seemed to work good on the smaller stuff though.