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Post by gwnwar on May 8, 2016 16:03:45 GMT
Got enough gas in tank to move sender float up.. Black wires at tank connector grounded to frame check with OHM meter. Did you check the wire from sender to cluster with OHM meter. Ground the Yellow wire at sender with key on does gauge swing full it should if wire run is good.. Break in foil run on cluster board for ground to tank or power to gauge.
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Post by Trenon on May 9, 2016 2:23:54 GMT
I have a common ground for the fuel level transmitter / pump and the pump works fine so the ground should be good.
I'll try grounding it out tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks for the diagnostic help! This would have taken me a while to figure a way to diagnose by myself.
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Post by gwnwar on May 9, 2016 5:04:45 GMT
You getting any smoke from the fire?? It is on all news channels in USA.
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Post by einy on May 9, 2016 19:00:55 GMT
Good timing on these tips, George ... that same malady suddenly popped up on mine. One question .. does the color coding / diagnostic methods that you describe also pertain to a 1991 US donor ??
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Post by gwnwar on May 9, 2016 19:35:18 GMT
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Post by Trenon on May 11, 2016 4:54:26 GMT
Tried grounding out the yellow wire and still nothing so there must be an issue somewhere between the tank and the gage cluster. Will have to hunt it down. In other news I have made some progress. Mounted my high brake light. I made some weld on zip tie clips to keep the wiring fixed And welded on some brackets to hold the light I like how it looks and it will make me much easier to see.
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Post by gwnwar on May 11, 2016 5:23:10 GMT
Trenon.. When you grounded the yellow wire did you have the key on..It take a few seconds to move to full..If yes to key check the wire from tank to cluster with OHM meter. There is a connector that connects the front and rear harness was around front kick panel..
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Post by Trenon on May 14, 2016 5:03:29 GMT
I may not have waited long enough. I will have to get on checking that. Since the car runs it has been a low priority for me. It's on the to do list. Today was exhaust day. I had previosuly installed the FM 3" down pipe with cat on my donor and I kept it for my build. So I had to fab up an exhaust from the DP back. I ordered the Magnaflo exhaust that everyone seems to use. Had to do some hunting to figure out what model it is. I mounted my upside down to kit that is sold by exomotive. It is much easier to mount this way. FYI anyone who plans on doing this you need the following: 2' of 3" pipe 3" x 2.5" reducer 2 x 2.5" u bends 3' of 2.5" pipe Magnaflo exhaust 12265 (1x 2.5" in 2 x 2.5" out) I haven't put tips on it but I plan on using a third 2.5" u bend cut in half. Here are the mock up pictures. I forgot to take pictures after I welded it.
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Post by driver on May 14, 2016 21:08:25 GMT
Can you take a video when it's done want to see how it sounds? Thx
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Post by Trenon on May 20, 2016 3:14:36 GMT
Here's the video with the sound of the exhaust
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Post by gwnwar on May 21, 2016 3:01:50 GMT
For the noise do you have a smooth or notched water pump belt.I found notched do make noise.You also have a cut cam cover right.. What part of engine is hitting under the hood.. Have to tried to raise the trans tail shaft up some. Loosen front PPF bolt raise trans and tighten bolts.
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Post by Trenon on May 21, 2016 5:56:33 GMT
The tip of the cam cover is hitting it.
I mounted my rad high enough that the hood would actually clear under it. The problem is that then it hits the engine. I cut back the hood 4" underneath and am going to raise the nose up a bit which will get rid of all the rubbing issues...well except for the intercooler piping.
Never thought to try and adjust the trans placement. Awesome idea! I've still been meaning to go after that fuel gage problem but I don't need a working fuel gage to pass inspection so its low on the priority list. I really just want to get this thing street legal so I can enjoy it for the short summer we have. This winter I have to tear it all down to get it all powder coated.
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Post by Trenon on May 21, 2016 5:57:44 GMT
I forgot to mention I have a slow electrical draw that is killing my battery.
Quick question when you hook the battery up should the fuel pump prime the fuel system? I don't remember it doing that before. I thought that was a key - on behavior?
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Post by gwnwar on May 22, 2016 2:49:25 GMT
Turning key sets prime to pump. Just hooking up the battery should not do it..
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Post by Trenon on May 22, 2016 3:36:30 GMT
any idea on what i would have hooked up wrong so my key registers as on when it's not?
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