Zeitgeist's Mid-west OH race chassis #170 build

[zeitgeist]

Spent a couple hours today switching some parts around in the Evaporust solution and pulling the front subframe and motor-mounts. I cleaned the grunge off the subframe.

The Evaporust works great but only on steel parts. I would like to do something similar for use on the aluminum parts like the transmission,differential, cam cover and coolant/thermostat housings. What did those of you that have completed the freshening of these parts do?

[jon]

Aluminum doesn't rust, of course, but it can corrode. Might just want to clean it up with wire brush and paint over it with chassis paint of your choosing.

[einy]

Dec 28, 2015 5:53:49 GMT jon said:

Aluminum doesn't rust, of course, but it can corrode. Might just want to clean it up with wire brush and paint over it with chassis paint of your choosing.

That's what I did ... Turned out looking pretty nice!

For items that you cleanup in the Evaporust, I'd get some type of rust preventative on them pretty quick.  From my experience, cleaned up items re-rust in short order if you don't.

[zeitgeist]

Thanks. My thermostat neck and a few other pieces are rough looking. I would like to keep the grey aluminum looking color and finish of the transmission, diff and intake. The oil pan I just will clean up and leave as is. The cam cover I want to do a crinkle coat in black or the red used on Honda or Mazdaspeed Miatas. Other than wire brush and cleaning for paint prep nothing else is needed to paint these parts that stays durable? I always thought aluminum needed more than steel for prep or a different technique.

[zeitgeist]

The rust and freshening of the control arms continues with soaking but they are almost done. I am improving the workspace as well. Picked up a HF 20 Ton H frame HD press, a workbench top and legs.

Tomorrow I plan to press out the factory rubber bushings from all the control arms, the stuck bolts in the rear uprights and the bushings out of the uprights too.

Does anyone have any suggestions or thoughts on making the process safer,easier or less risky?

I plan to use various sockets,ratchet extensions and punches to press between the press tip and bushings. I assume some penetrating oil on the bushing will help. I never have pushed out bushings so I am wondering if pressing from the center or outer edge works best. It looks like pressing the smaller side out if the bushing has a lip makes sense.

[jon]

Some of the bushings I was able to push out the center part first, ripping the rubber. Then I had success by putting my hacksaw in there and cutting relief slots.

I don't recommend resorting to fire... That was a stinky toxic mess.

[abc123]

I cut the lip off the bushing before pressing them out, not sure if it made a difference but they came out easy. I bought the same press, has come in handy for other things as well.

[einy]

The outer sleeve is what you need to press out. All mine came out without having to cut any relief slots using "best fit" socket and hydraulic press. I picked up a dial caliper ... Makes picking the best fit (outer diameter) socket easy

[zeitgeist]

Well thanks to all for the advice. I got all the bushings pressed out yesterday, cleaned and prepped the control arms for paint and got them primed and 3 coats of paint on today. I also got all the rest of the hardware laying around through the Evaporust,clean and oiled. I removed the front lower ball joints. I did find one upper rear control arm had split at the weld on one side when inspecting it. It has no mark but maybe I pressed the bushing out at an angle and split it. It may have been weak and in the process of splitting but regardless I will need another rear upper control arm.









I also cleaned up the steering rack, pulled all the fittings and lines and loosened the parts on it getting ready for the depowering according to Flyin Miata method.

I worked on building a workbench and tomorrow when stores are open I will pick up the hardware I need to assemble it. This is in prep to mount a vise and so I can work on trying to get the stuck bolts from the rear uprights. I worry they won't come out without drilling,torching or some other means.

I didn't keep close track of time since I took plenty of breaks to work on the bench, let primer and paint dry or warm up the garage. Rough estimate of around 4-5 hours yesterday and 3 hours today.

[abc123]

I can send you an upper rear control arm. I have an extra that I won't be needing.

[zeitgeist]

That would be awesome. Email me at [e-mail] for my address and let me know what you want for it and shipping.

[zeitgeist]

Well today I removed the rear subframe. It was pretty easy getting the diff mount bolts and nuts off but as I lifted the subframe up off the mounts I realized the subframe braces wouldn't clear the diff arms. I removed the bolts and broke 2 bolts holding the subframe braces to the subframe. Not a big deal as I can use nuts and bolts as replacements. I then cleaned,sanded and primed the subframe the rest of the afternoon. 5 hours spent and tomorrow it will get a couple coats of paint. For what it is worth I am using Rustoleum High performance enamel for the subframes and VHT chassis and Rollbar paint for the control arms. Both in semi gloss black. I like the Rustoleum better as it covers better hiding more imperfections and is $1 cheaper per can of 15 oz vs the VHT at 12 oz's. Both look good and are easy to use just my opinion/experience.

Here are a couple pics of the workbench and rear subframe with a coat of paint on it.

[zeitgeist]

I have left the dark side, literally. I installed 8 shop lights in the garage yesterday and today. Picked up 8 double 4 foot LED shop lights from FEIT at Costco yesterday with a trip to Perrysburg. These things are really nice. Good even light in a bright white color temp. They light off instantly and were easy to install with all the hardware except drywall anchors and hooks. I used 2 extension cords until I get my electrical done but the low draw makes it almost a non issue.

Before I was working with a LED headlamp and 1 CFL 60 or 75 watt equivalent. That really was tedious and kept any work to daylight hours. Even then it was not ideal. Now I have 29600 lumens. It isn't quite operating theater like but it sure is nice. Cost was $252 including the hardware and it took me around 3 hours to install them.

[einy]

Nice! I recently installed a similar unit from Sam's over my bench as a trial. I will be getting more for the rest of the garage, as it is awesome compared to the very old fluorescent fixture it replaced! And, it even works in the cold temps !!

[colin]

I just installed better lights in my garage. Can believe how much better it makes working on the car. Should have done this first thing.