Zeitgeist's Mid-west OH race chassis #170 build

[zeitgeist]

I got a decent amount done today and pictures from yesterdays work. First up the pics of the Vmaxx and Supermiata endlinks.







I set the fronts to 9.5" from mount point on the bottom to spring perch and rears to 5" from lower mount center to spring perch according to FM instructions. WHere did other users of Vmaxx's end up? Higher or lower?

Today I installed the new ignition switch. stupid easy just 1 phillips head screw and the plug connection. After that I installed the Antigravity battery in the rear passenger seat area. I used some foam pad to cushion the battery and prevent paint wear as well as provide a more secure mount with less pressure on the battery case.



It compresses and is non slip.

I then made a bracket out of steel stock and 2 long bolts. I used bonded washers which hold on the bolts nicely and then double nuts with lock nut for security. To prevent any contact with the terminals and bracket as well as clean up the bracket look I used some plastic channel.





The channel has a cover that clips in so I cut a piece to fit for a finished look but I don't know if I will keep it or not. I will paint everything black once I get more done.



I then installed the Miatacage steering column adapter, NRG 2.5 Quick release and Momo Mod 78 steering wheel. The Miatacage adapter to NRG fitment was a bit of a bear as the holes are thick with powdercoat and the screws threaded in REALLY tight. I used red Locktite but as tight as they were it isn't coming off. The fact that the NRG quick release had no instructions is not great but Jon in Detroit helped there (Thanks Jon) and Youtube had some info.







Lastly I put some grip tape on the pedals.



The car is so dirty I can't wait to get it on the wheels and get everything cleaned up. I caught a bit of a cold and feel like garbage but I hope to keep progress going. Next steps are installing the trans tunnel cover, brake rotors,pads and SS flex lines as well as thorough bleeding of new clutch system and brake system.

[gwnwar]

Good progress looking good..In the first pic of new wheel is that a burnt wire just in front of the Quick release?
You might want to add another bracket tap on the front side of the lower end of sway bar links. NB single bracket/tab
have been known to break off..(NA has 2 tabs) Looks like pollen is over everything..

[zeitgeist]

Apr 30, 2016 22:22:50 GMT gwnwar said:

Good progress looking good..In the first pic of new wheel is that a burnt wire just in front of the Quick release?
You might want to add another bracket tap on the front side of the lower end of sway bar links. NB single bracket/tab
have been known to break off..(NA has 2 tabs) Looks like pollen is over everything..

I'm not sure what wire you are referring to. Maybe the spade connector in front of it? That is for the horn connection to do later. If it is another wire let me know. There is a wire near the left front tire I cut that goes into the fan relay that pulled out due to corrosion. I cut off the corrosion and will re-attach it or move to 1 relay once I research how to do it.

I may add another bracket once I get more accomplished and get a welder or plan a few welding projects to be done. I have heard about these breaking. I'm hoping it will hold up since it is the stock swaybar and rubber bar to chassis bushings for now.

The dirt and dust may be some pollen but mostly drywall and wood dust from home repairs drywall dust. and cutting wood and laminate/vinyl floor panels. We replaced 2 rooms flooring,all baseboard and window trim.drywalled the kitchen and one wall in another room. We also built 13 cabinets,29 drawers and put in 18 recessed lights and 6 light fixtures. Painted 5 rooms and a hallway with ceilings. All this while trying to build the Exocet. I'm tired just thinking about it but glad most of it is done.

[gwnwar]

Yes the spade connector.. so not burnt just shrink tubing on it.. Sounds like a lot of work on the house.. Are you going to live there or flip it.Have fun on both your projects..

[zeitgeist]

Yes just shrink tubing. We plan to live here a long time thus trying to get things the way we want them.

[zeitgeist]

I got a few things done on the car today but I am paying for working while sick now. I got the rear bulkhead panels installed. I used the included rivets on the driver side but chose to use sheet metal screws for the passenger side for future access. I also installed a Miata grommet for the battery cables and cut both cables shorter while adding new terminal ends and heat shrink. It looks decent and cleaner than the overly long cables it had.

I also installed the trans tunnel cover. It fit pretty decently in most areas contrary to what I was expecting from reading other peoples ordeals. The fit at the rear top was a bit of a gap but elsewhere it fit fairly flush. I'll pull it off and paint in then add edge trim to the front and rear. I had to open the shifter hole forward about an inch but otherwise it wasn't horrible. I need to figure out a shifter boot of some sort. Any thoughts?

Tomorrow if I can muster it I will put on the rest of the exhaust after the cat and look at installing the rear subframe brace.

[zeitgeist]

Well after taking a day off to help recover from this nasty cold I had a pretty decent day today.

I got the complete exhaust installed and re-routed the second O2 sensor wire. I modified the rear subframe brace removing the two legs that go forward and connect to the main tub. I don't see enough benefit of 2 short connections to the chassis so I have the lateral cross brace running between the rear control arm lower mounts side to side and the longitude bars running parallel to each lower control arm.

I put on a new alternator belt after the old one with unknown mileage and a little rough edge. I cleaned and removed the complete adjustment assembly putting some anti-seize on the slider adjustment area.

I then cut off the corroded end of the blue-yel wire that goes into one of the cooling fan relays and removed the blade end from the connector. I put a new one on and inserted it in the connector. I then started and ran the car topping off the water a couple times and checking for exhaust leaks and any other leaks or drips. Nothing so far so I'm pretty pleased. It took 10 mins or so but eventually the driver's side radiator fan turned on. I would like to get both fans to start and stop together.

Anyone have a how to guide for wiring the relays together or whatever the method is for both fans working together?

I started on the brake job and got the driver's rear almost done when I realized the caliper was almost seized when pushed in. Ordered one due in tomorrow. The passenger rear went well and is done. I stopped there until tomorrow when I hope to install the front braided SS lines, new calipers,pads and rotors. I also plan on getting the tires and wheels mounted and balanced. Put in 6 hours but it went well.

[gwnwar]

Sounds like a good days work.. On the rear brake calipers do you use an Allen wrench under the bolt on caliper to move the pistons?? or do you pressed them back in housing?? Do you adjust the passenger rear with an Allen wrench..

[zeitgeist]

May 5, 2016 5:09:28 GMT gwnwar said:

Sounds like a good days work.. On the rear brake calipers do you use an Allen wrench under the bolt on caliper to move the pistons?? or do you pressed them back in housing?? Do you adjust the passenger rear with an Allen wrench..

I tried to use the allen bolt to compress the piston on both sides. The driver's side didn't budge and even with a C clamp only went in part way. The passenger side pulled in most of the way and then the last few mm I used a C clamp. It went in much easier and smooth not notchy. The slider pins were in good condition on the passenger side also unlike the driver's side which were terrible so likely the passenger side had been changed at some time.

I take it there is no adjustment once everything is in place to the allen bolt? The caliper moves cleanly.

[zeitgeist]

Quick side note. I had always bled the brakes RR, LR, RF, LF or farthest from master cylinder to closest. Until I had a 02 Neon RT which I tried that way and found poorer results than the manual advised method which called for diagonal bleeding like RR, LF then LR and RF. Not sure why it made a difference but it made for a harder pedal. I assume because of the 99's 3 channel ABS the normal procedure will work fine but thought I should ask.

[gwnwar]

Using a C clamp will damage the adjustment screw (Allen head)You have to be able to turn the piston in/out freely with it.
Check if they move without pads in..
There is an adjustment for rears. With E brake off no pressure/pull on cables..
Turn Allen so pads touch rotors no spinning don't over tighten doesn't take much force.. Easy to damage with over torque.
Then back off the Allen 1/4 turn, check for being able to turn wheel slight drag. Both should have same drag..
Reinstall bolt on Allen hole.
Now adjust E brake handle.
As for the brakes the LR is farthest from master its line comes across the rear sub from right side junction block..
I have not used the cross front to rear way.. What ever works is good..

[zeitgeist]

Today I mounted the instrument cluster and made a temporary cardboard hood for it. I covered it in plastic tape for weather protection and then again over that in hockey grip tape to eliminate glare/reflection. I plan to install the Exomotive hood with a new cluster after I get further along and plan for registration a ways away.

I took in my tires and wheels to get mounted and balanced and they didn't call so i hope they are finished tomorrow and the place is open or I'll have to wait until Monday. My driver's side rear caliper is due in tomorrow which I plan to mount and then flush,fill and bleed the daylights out of the brake system. 3 new calipers, braided stainless lines and ABS means lots of bleeding.

I worked on mounting the Kirkey Intermediate 16" race seat today and almost finished. Seat mounted to brackets and the rear holes drilled in brackets and frame.

I forgot that yesterday I also tightened down all the braided line connections, filled and bled the clutch system and adjusted it according to FM directions. Seems good but first try will tell. I did it alone as my wife has finals weeks. I used an adjustable shower curtain rod to hold the pedal down pressed against the cage. Hell, it may even be easier than getting the wife in and out of the car ;-)

I stopped for dinner and lawn cutting so done for the day. Spent 6.5 hours of work time and around an hour running to the parts store and taking the tires/wheels in.

Hopefully I'll have some good news and pictures tomorrow.

[gwnwar]

zeitgeist.. I have not had to go through this ABS bleeding nightmare.
You may want to reverse bleed each caliper and line back to the ABS unit though the bleed valve with a syringe and rubber hose..
forcing fluid back to ABS unit.
Open lines at ABS unit till fluid flow there..
Bench bleed the master them you can bleed at each joint to proportioning valve then each joint out of it to ABS unit..
Cover any coated or painted area with plastic sheet sealed good so the fluid doesn't eat the paint off..
READ.. this it might help with brake bleed..
www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,26846.0.html
www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/bleeding-brakes-abs-17404/page4/
SEE POSTS 69,71,72
As for the wheels did you have them put the weights on the inside of the wheel so they don't show..

[zeitgeist]

May 7, 2016 6:00:47 GMT gwnwar said:

zeitgeist.. I have not had to go through this ABS bleeding nightmare.
You may want to reverse bleed each caliper and line back to the ABS unit though the bleed valve with a syringe and rubber hose..
forcing fluid back to ABS unit.
Open lines at ABS unit till fluid flow there..
Bench bleed the master them you can bleed at each joint to proportioning valve then each joint out of it to ABS unit..
Cover any coated or painted area with plastic sheet sealed good so the fluid doesn't eat the paint off..
READ.. this it might help with brake bleed..
www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,26846.0.html
www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/bleeding-brakes-abs-17404/page4/
SEE POSTS 69,71,72
As for the wheels did you have them put the weights on the inside of the wheel so they don't show..

Thanks very much Gwnwar that is some very good information for ABS. I may need to use it but I bled the brakes today and so far all seems well with a nice hard pedal and good movement of all the calipers. The fluid was heavily flushed and bled repeatedly at each wheel.

It appears that the more detailed methods described in the posts you mentioned are for bleeding ABS when the system was freshly installed or dry or even got air in ABS pump. When I did my teardown I left all the lines connected from master cylinder to ABS pump to each wheel caliper. Now I replaced the front and drivers side rear calipers as well as the front flex lines and I did remove all the fluid from the master cyl reservoir to get as much new clean fluid through the system but it bled quickly and as normal. I will need a test drive to see if the pedal changes but hopefully it won't need anything or just another simple bleed.

I really appreciate the link and detailed info sharing it may come in handy.

[zeitgeist]

As discussed above I bled the brakes today after installing the driver's side rear caliper. I installed the caliper then sucked out all the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir and wiping the inside clean. The old fluid wasn't too dark but a little cloudy and golden colored rather then light corn oil colored like the Motul 600 fluid I used fresh.

The bleeding went well using the manual method and going from LR-RR-RF-LF and then back round again once all bled clear. It only took one time at the left rear before I had fluid but I kept bleeding each caliper from just above max to just above min on the master cylinder just to get as much old fluid out. I used the same one person method I used for the clutch with the adjustable shower curtain rod braced against the rollcage. After the rears I had to shorten the rod as the pedal wouldn't compress as far. Once the brakes were bled I installed the seat.

The seat mount went pretty well using brackets from the 2 cross tubes on the chassis and bolting the seat to them. I also added two bars in an X pattern to cross-brace the side mounts and add support under the seat. Right now I have 4 bolts mounting the brackets to the chassis and 4 bolts holding the seat to the brackets. I will use the rear two seat mounts and go through the steel floor to add 2 extra mounting points. I didn't have long enough bolts so that will require a trip for hardware this next week. Once the seat was installed I mounted the horn on the front right radiator crossbar brace.

Next up was installing the inside center rearview mirror for UTVs on the front cage bar. I added some thin stick on padding to reduce the bracket to bar wear.

Lastly I got my old out of date 5 point cam lock Gforce harness and planned out the install for street use and autocross until I get a new harness. I also adjusted the throttle pedal stop and started a nut and bolt check. If I had my tires and wheels I would have mounted them and tried for a maiden voyage but thus it was not to be.









Not the pictures I had hoped to be posting but getting close.