Black to black and wires match. near steering column and instrument cluster.
White to white connector with matching wires also near steering column and instrument cluster. I initially had the 2 above pluged in to each other black to white and white to black but never hooked up power before switching to matching connector plug colors.
Blue to blue with matching wires now in center of wire tray but looks like it was closer to right side of dash originally.
Pic of underhood fuse and relay box with old rusty Main relay in place for orientation and clarity sake.
Lastly a pic of the fuel line hookup just for advice if it is connected correctly since I am now second guessing myself on everything.
Sorry forgot to add that there is a similar white to white block style connection at the rear near the differential. No pic as it is tough to see but should be fine as it can't reach anything similar and is connected with a ground near it.
It sounds like there are other electrical issues to tackle, but you may want to move the fuel filter to between the pump and your first junction, otherwise the path of least resistance will be to just pump continuously back into the tank. This is essentially the same flow path as the stock (all outbound through the filter, then return).
Here are the ground connection points to keep some separation for clarity.
Double eyelet near fuel tank on passenger side.
Main ground to chassis right of battery negative cable.
Above is a single eyelet and double eyelet attached near dash area near passenger side.
Above is double eyelet on top near throttle body.
Above is the other double eyelet ground below throttle body just above and right of the center of the pic near the shadow. Hard to see. There is a touch of corrosion but I lossened it and scraped the area it contacts the engine then re-tightened the bolt.
ABove is ground strap from rear driver side of engine to chassis at trans to engine point.
Above is multipoint ground on dash above pedals on pedal brace.
Single eyelet I believe from radio now on dash/wire tray square tube.
Multipoint ground originally under a headlight now attached to shock tower part of frame.
Same as above but opposite side. first one was drivers side this one is passenger side.
The other ground not pictured is on the square tube near diff connecting rear harness near master square white to white multi plug also not pictured
99 Donor, Race chassis #170 ordered 09/24/15 delivered 02/12/16, First drive 05/09/16, complete 05/19/16, First trackday 06/06/16
I found a black box approx 3 X 4" square and about 1 inch thick that has a label reading.
Cont. Box A.C.C.
NC11 66 320B
8F04A
Naldec 31266 43
It is located near the pedal assembly near the drivers side dash area near the firewall. It is near the large firewall grommet on the drivers side. I think it is the control box for cruise control but want to make sure it isn't a security/anti-theft system.
I have the wire colors that go into it if needed.
99 Donor, Race chassis #170 ordered 09/24/15 delivered 02/12/16, First drive 05/09/16, complete 05/19/16, First trackday 06/06/16
Another speculation, you may want to sand off the powdercoat under your ground connections to get a better connection. I don't think it would be responsible for the challenges you're seeing now, but you could do a quick test for resistance between those connections and the negative battery terminal to see if it is an issue.
From what your wrote you have power at ign sw R/B but not at Engine fuse (inside box)you need to get power to that fuse I believe it is your whole problem..
'Engine' fuse I am talking about is in the inside fuse box 15A.. On underside of box there should be a R/B wire from ignition switch. Use OHM meter to check that wire from ign. sw. to fuse box for 0.00 reading.. or 12V If not a good reading You said no power to engine fuse.. FIX that problem first. as it powers main relay coil to close relay..to power fuel pump, ECU, coils and other things.. You said your meters don't work that R/B powers them too. It powers 4 different fuses in the inside box there should be a bar that connects 4 fuses.. If you want give me a call 479-444-9922 ask for George.. I am in NW Arkansas CTZone..
HELP ME 2 HELP YOU - please complete your Personal information: go to Menu>Profile>EditProfile>Personal>Signature> enter country code (UK,USA,etc.) your MEV, your donor's year and engine size (then click Save) This leads to faster trouble shooting!
Ok I feel like an idiot. I checked the black wire with red stripe for power at the ignition switch last night and got 12V not the Red wire with black stripe. I checked the red/black today and have no power to it with ignition switch on or off and the relay closed or not.
George I really appreciate the help. I'll try some checking and call later.
99 Donor, Race chassis #170 ordered 09/24/15 delivered 02/12/16, First drive 05/09/16, complete 05/19/16, First trackday 06/06/16
Update number 735 I checked the 2 white /red wires at the ignition switch and the black/red wire at the ignition switch. All have 12V with key in ON position. The RED/Black has no power with key in any position. Green/red at ignition switch has 12V with key in ACC or ON positions.
99 Donor, Race chassis #170 ordered 09/24/15 delivered 02/12/16, First drive 05/09/16, complete 05/19/16, First trackday 06/06/16
HURRAY IT LIVES!!!!!!. I'm so geeked it runs. The issue was the ignition switch. Huge thanks goes to Gwnwar for his patience and technical help. I owe you a case a beer. Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions on things to check. I really appreciate the help even if it didn't direct me to the eventual issue it helped clear possible causes and gave me something to do instead of drinking or setting fire to the garage ;-)
My criminal mind helped sort it when I found that the white/red wires coming into the Ign switch sent power to everything except the red/blk wire. I unplugged the switch and hot wired it. It started so easy it scarred the daylights out of me.
Awesome feeling and like Gwnwar said it was something simple.
99 Donor, Race chassis #170 ordered 09/24/15 delivered 02/12/16, First drive 05/09/16, complete 05/19/16, First trackday 06/06/16
Great news.. Glad you didn't burn the garage down.. Now you may be able to take the switch off the ign. lock and take it apart and clean it..If you do this work in a shoe box or clean table with a towel to catch any parts..
Top one, the one with switch on a piece of paper.. A very small screwdriver and a pair of tweeters helps. Take pics as you go for later if needed..
HELP ME 2 HELP YOU - please complete your Personal information: go to Menu>Profile>EditProfile>Personal>Signature> enter country code (UK,USA,etc.) your MEV, your donor's year and engine size (then click Save) This leads to faster trouble shooting!
Great news.. Glad you didn't burn the garage down.. Now you may be able to take the switch off the ign. lock and take it apart and clean it..If you do this work in a shoe box or clean table with a towel to catch any parts..
Top one, the one with switch on a piece of paper.. A very small screwdriver and a pair of tweeters helps. Take pics as you go for later if needed..
I ordered a new one for $50 from the dealer as I don't want to get stuck and miss track time or be stuck on the road but I have to switch the old key assembly to the new switch so I'll try the cleaning method you posted a link to for a backup switch.
Thanks again for all your help.
Sorry for the bad sideways video. I grabbed my phone once it started and shot it. It ran smooth even though the sound is up and down I may have been covering the mic or just me moving made it sound like that.
99 Donor, Race chassis #170 ordered 09/24/15 delivered 02/12/16, First drive 05/09/16, complete 05/19/16, First trackday 06/06/16
Great news - and great perseverance sorting it out - well done. George is indeed a national, nay, global treasure - is it too late for him to run for president?
Made some progress today. I got the wires secured enough for driving. I made 3 brackets to mount the underhood fuse/relay box, one to mount the fuel injector damper and one that mounts the evap. solinoids. Pretty happy with the function if not the looks but I will improve them later. I also ran the line from the evap canister to the big rear one on 99's. It is in place above the right rear shock tower but I need to secure it.
I ordered a used instrument cluster as mine has a light jumpered on the rear. I also hope to pick up my ignition switch from the Mazda dealer tomorrow. I double checked the fuel and brake lines as well as the evap and vacuum lines to make sure nothing is binding,loose or rubbing(especially the braided SS fuel line)
Spent 6.5 hours on the car today not including running errands.
Tomorrow I plan to assemble and install the Vmaxx Xtreme coil overs and shock top spacers. If I have time before going into Findlay I will install the Supermiata adj swaybar endlinks on the front bar.
99 Donor, Race chassis #170 ordered 09/24/15 delivered 02/12/16, First drive 05/09/16, complete 05/19/16, First trackday 06/06/16
I only was able to work on the car today from 10-2 but I got the Vmaxx's assembled and installed with the shock spacers. I also installed the Supermiata swaybar endlinks and bolt the ABS wire supports to the control arms and chassis using the factory mounting points.
I picked up the new ignition switch which I plan to install tomorrow along with a battery mount and make sure everything is still working. Then it is on to fitting the NRG quick release,Mom steering wheel and adapter and doing a brake job.
99 Donor, Race chassis #170 ordered 09/24/15 delivered 02/12/16, First drive 05/09/16, complete 05/19/16, First trackday 06/06/16
