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Post by gwnwar on Oct 27, 2015 6:39:16 GMT
If you mean the bolt holding the PS bracket that the spacer is covering.. Just hit spacer with a hammer to slide it towards the back of bracket to clear bolt head..
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Post by Shane on Oct 27, 2015 14:50:08 GMT
Thanks, that's the one I mean, will try the weekend.
More detailing finished today, new plugs, leads, gaskets etc..
Just a few more brackets to spray then onto the disks, suspension and calipers (hopefully this weekend, weather permitting!
Starting to look good now 
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 27, 2015 18:39:01 GMT
Just for storage I would put some tape over the throttle body to keep stuff out.. Looking Good..
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Post by stu1710 on Oct 27, 2015 20:13:14 GMT
Coming along well Shane. I'm hoping to get home and get more work done on mine this weekend. Don't think I'll catch up though!
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Post by Shane on Oct 28, 2015 16:01:20 GMT
Gwnwar - I got the PS bracket off! But i did get lucky, I had no idea how to get the bottom bolt off, but with the top 2 off I bashed it wih a hammer backwards and forwards and it cracked open and then i was able to use my fingers!
Also I have now masked of the throttle body and thermostat
Cheers Stu,
Its surprising how quick it comes along once the body is off,
of course you could spend many more hours stripping every part but im impatient even so I think the finish is still pretty effective!
Just started on the shocks, hanging them out to dry, as you do
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Post by Shane on Oct 29, 2015 18:26:26 GMT
Serious noob question now!
I need to tighten bolts to specific torque but im having trouble understanding the spec on the workshop manual
The below example is 44-78lbf
My wrench range is 20-150lb/ft
What should I set it at?
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Post by welshy1 on Oct 29, 2015 18:44:59 GMT
For the rocker cover it doesn't need to be that tight just do them all in a circler pattern starting from middle out wards you feel the gasket compressing then just nip each one up after that. A bit of silicone on the corners of the gasket to help seal it.
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Post by Shane on Oct 29, 2015 19:11:32 GMT
Thanks welshy, but how would I read that on other parts using the image as an example
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Post by USStu on Oct 29, 2015 20:04:58 GMT
Those in the specs are in inch-pounds (in*lbf), not foot-pounds (ft*lbf) like your torque wrench. There is a conversion chart out there, but it converts to like 4 ft*lbf, so you would never get a correct reading. Best way would be to buy a inch-pound torque wrench. Or, use a 1/4 inch drive tiny ratchet and torque down till they are snug, and not over tightened...
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Post by Shane on Oct 29, 2015 20:33:10 GMT
Sorry I didn't ask the question very well!
I have an inch and foot pound wrench, but at what torque would I set it as it gives a range between 44 and 78?
Thanks
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Post by kiwicanfly on Oct 29, 2015 20:54:19 GMT
There is usually a range of torque settings for any fastener depending on whether the fastener is dry or lubricated, and also if it is plated or not.
A well lubricated free running fastener is always torqued to a lower setting than an unlubricated one.
It is odd though that the range is given with no clarification of the circumstances.
Also there may be another factor in the example you have.
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Post by bignik on Oct 29, 2015 20:56:05 GMT
Id second what welshy said, they don't need to all that tight, as long as the corners have a dab of gasket sealant on them. If you really want to torque them I would start with a circular pattern at around 35 and then work up to somewhere in the middle of the range (61)... Looking good mate !
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Post by Shane on Oct 29, 2015 21:09:56 GMT
Thanks guys,
I was thinking of just going to the middle but I couldn't understand why it was giving such a large range but kiwi that makes sense!
I have used sealant so all good (hopefully)
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Post by Shane on Oct 31, 2015 9:22:12 GMT
Im sure this has been covered over and over but I cant seem to find a definitive answer.
Shall I completely remove the purge solenoid valve and blank of the 2 nipples the pipes connect to (seen pointed at in picture, its the one with a Mitsubishi logo) or should I just keep it as is?
The connector next to it was removed with the charcoal canister so it leaves just the connector and 2 pipes im pointing at.
I have no idea what it does.
Thanks |
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Post by snowbird1 on Oct 31, 2015 15:12:37 GMT
The purge valve is the device with the large diameter hoses connected to the canister - if you are not using the canister you can cap that hose at the manifold.
The thing pointed to is the EGR boost solenoid - not sure what it does as the EGR valve is operated directly from the ECU. I haven't had an engine with this system so not sure if you can just blank it off. Your engine also has the Variable Intake Control System (VICS), I think the solenoid for that is mounted on the manifold.
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