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Post by boileralum on Jan 25, 2016 15:07:59 GMT
I've got a local lead on a pneumatic gun to borrow, so that will certainly help when I tackle the rear bulkheads.
Didn't get quite as far last night as I hoped, but got both engines separated from their respective transmissions and the flywheels & clutches removed. Tonight or tomorrow I will get the FM happy meal bolted up to the new engine and get it swapped over to the front subframe and 6-speed on the roller skate. Need to stop at NAPA to pick up thermostat gaskets for my reroute and get that installed, run the brake & fuel lines on the PPF a la Luke in WV's build, then I should be ready to mate them up and free up space to get my Mustang back in the garage.
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Post by einy on Jan 25, 2016 23:44:47 GMT
Curious if today's center tunnel fits any better than mine did ....
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Post by boileralum on Jan 26, 2016 0:11:48 GMT
I'll let you know. I probably should have test fit before doing the kick panels but I was tired of removing all the saran wrap.
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Post by gwnwar on Jan 26, 2016 5:23:45 GMT
Get yourself some rubber water pipe insulation tubes they are split to to slide over pipes comes in different dia. sizes.
It will save the powder coat.
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Post by boileralum on Jan 26, 2016 14:11:46 GMT
Thanks, that is a good tip. I was thinking pool noodles, but for some reason those aren't on the shelves in Indianapolis in January  |
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Post by boileralum on Feb 8, 2016 16:33:21 GMT
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Post by boileralum on Mar 24, 2016 18:18:07 GMT
I've been terrible about updating this thread, mainly because I use my phone to stream music while working on the car, so I don't have it in my hand to take pics. Anyway, I have a question about mounting the hood/bonnet. I went through all the bodywork mounting hardware box yesterday, and the only mounts for the hood piece are the side brackets. I don't have anything for the top side of the hood, and they didn't appear to be on the packing checklist either. Did Exomotive stop providing these mounts (in red below - blue is what I do have).  |
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Post by abc123 on Mar 24, 2016 18:21:17 GMT
i think they only used those when the hood was two pieces
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Post by boileralum on Mar 24, 2016 18:29:44 GMT
So what is everyone using for brackets for hood pins and such? I haven't opened the box with those yet to even see what is included (I have some quiklatches as well as a set of the aerolatches).
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Post by einy on Mar 24, 2016 21:53:45 GMT
For the front, I located and locked down using Quick-latch mini's x 4 working so far for me. One on each corner, with a piece of Tygon tube on the shaft to push the hood up, and prevent rattles. Need the optional long shafts, which they will substitute for the standard length ones if you order direct for a small charge. Get the biggest shaft diameter (5/16-18 I think) that the offer.
For the rear, what Exomotive provides.
If you ever want to make a run to Cincinnati area to see what I've got, let me know !!
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Post by boileralum on Mar 25, 2016 0:38:26 GMT
I bought my quiklatches directly from China via AliExpress, so I may have to do a coupler nut or something. I'm going to have to raise it high anyway to clear the VVT solenoid. Thanks!
Also, I will be at the Wilmington ProSolos and Champ Tour this summer, and may hit up the GL Divisional there the week after the first Pro also. We definitely should meet up!
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Post by spookygeek on Mar 25, 2016 3:13:40 GMT
As someone who is looking at doing my own sport build I am curious if you could expand on your reasoning for the steel floors and the double diagonal options? Frame color is killer.
BRENT
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Post by boileralum on Mar 25, 2016 3:17:10 GMT
Hi Brent. The double diagonal was mainly an aesthetic decision, I don't care for the asymmetrical look of the single. And I chose the steel floors for the added strength - I am not a small guy, and I also plan on driving this on the road and track, and don't want a random piece of debris coming through the floor.
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Post by einy on Mar 25, 2016 16:56:08 GMT
I bought my quiklatches directly from China via AliExpress ... Hmmm ... Mine are made in the USA. |
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Post by boileralum on May 23, 2016 19:02:32 GMT
Holy schneikes, it started! Was taking Peter Florance's advice about letting it crank for 20s to do a composite log to get the cam and crank triggers. I failed to click start while watching the clock the first time, second time it fired up!
I had been fighting this condition for the better part of a month, and had feared that something was screwed up in the wiring. Apparently I just needed to crank it over longer!
Now I need to knock out the remaining items to get it driveable so I can try to hit an event to verify the drivability before the Toledo ProSolo.
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