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Post by buildercg on Sept 19, 2015 15:27:21 GMT
Thanks everyone for the replies.
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Post by buildercg on Sept 20, 2015 2:36:15 GMT
mawdo81, thanks for the tip. It worked like a charm.  |
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Post by buildercg on Sept 20, 2015 3:09:57 GMT
Lots of progress today. I'm hoping to have the chassis separated by the end of day tomorrow. In order to do that I still need to: - loosen the hub nuts (I have new bearings to install and everything is coming apart for paint; keeping the brakes in working order to make this easier),
- drain & disconnect brakes and remove brake cylinder,
- remove gas and brake pedals,
- disconnect and remove E brake,
- disconnect gas and drain tank,
- remove gas tank fill lines,
- remove main electrical harness from battery (all other harnesses removed but I haven't found how this runs from the battery to the front though I haven't been under the car yet),
- loosen front and rear end bolts (top side already loosened though not removed),
- attach engine hoist to body,
- disengage exhaust hangers,
- put tires back on, remove remaining bolts and let it drop slowly using my floor jack to help control things.
hopefully this plan works without breaking anything, including me... Here's what the car looked like tonight before the sun went down.    I assume the gas tank is removed after the chassis has been separated from the skateboard. George: as you can see I've already got my blocks ready so I can roll this thing around  Am I forgetting anything? |
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Post by buildercg on Sept 20, 2015 3:32:35 GMT
Feed and return are looped together with that hose, so... looped. Thanks for confirming. Once the chassis is apart I'll follow the Flyin Miata guide and fully depower the thing. Doesn't look too bad. |
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Post by buildercg on Sept 20, 2015 18:53:11 GMT
Got the front and rear hubs loosened. Boy was that a chore that took much longer than I planned.
Are the rear hubs supposed to have caps? My donor doesn't have them. I'll pick a few up to inhibit future rust assuming they can be put on. The front look practically new after the caps came off. I'll buy new hub nuts too as I don't believe they're supposed to be reused.
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Post by mawdo81 on Sept 20, 2015 19:10:04 GMT
On focus the rear (undriven) have caps but the front (driven) don't...
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 20, 2015 21:08:57 GMT
Don't forget to pull the filler hose and vent off the fuel tank before pulling body.. Did you get the ground strap by header to body.. Front hubs have caps rear do not.. I have reused the large nuts if torquing takes you to enough spot on the nut or switching nut to other side of car.. FM way to depower is good.. one other is to add welding the shaft to take any slop out of it.. www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1709/Project-Miatabusa-Part-5--De-Powering-the-Steering-Rack.aspx there are are 3 pages to this.. i |
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Post by buildercg on Sept 20, 2015 22:06:51 GMT
thanks George. My progress today is not as good as I hoped and most of my checklist is incomplete.
I think I got the ground you mentioned - on the driver side on the back close to master brake cylinder.
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 21, 2015 4:44:20 GMT
that is it.. Did you get the front sway bar mounts to body..
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Post by buildercg on Sept 21, 2015 11:50:36 GMT
The front sway bar is the only suspension part that is now fully disconnected. Do I need to keep the mounts?
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 21, 2015 21:50:32 GMT
You should keep with the sways the end links, rubber bushings, metal caps and hardware.. Rear bar stays on for now..
Do you have a spring compressor for the shocks?? If going to take apart you can do later with compressor just remove the 2 nuts holding the 4 top hat to body.. or just remove the center nut from top of each shock and they will come apart as you lift the body off. Or remove all 3 nuts (center and mounting) and all parts should hit the ground with body lifted.. Be safe..
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Post by buildercg on Sept 21, 2015 21:56:11 GMT
Thanks George. I have new coilovers from FM that will go on
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Post by einy on Sept 22, 2015 11:47:14 GMT
FYI - when I removed the body shell, I first unbolted the fuel tank from it. That way, when I lifted the body off of the rollerskate, the tank stayed with the skate. This made is MUCH easier to de-fuel the tank when I had full access to it. Also, with the exception of the fill hose and the fill vent hose, I left the other hoses attached (but undid the connectors that held the lines to the underside of the body.)
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Post by buildercg on Sept 22, 2015 11:58:02 GMT
Thanks for the tip. I wasn't sure this would be possible but given I have more than 5 gallons of high test still in the tank that I don't want to spull this'll be the approach I take.
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Post by einy on Sept 23, 2015 13:55:41 GMT
I had about the same. It was ALOT easier to remove the fuel once the body was removed, by then removing the fuel pump unit, and siphoning it our via that large opening in the top of the tank. Was also nice to see the condition of the inside of the tank with that unobstructed view !
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