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Post by einy on Sept 8, 2015 13:16:59 GMT
One tip - keep everything from your teardown even if you don't think you'll need it. I pitched a couple of items during mine that I thought I'd never need (such as the dead pedal, relay mount brackets, etc.), and have had to either purchase 'new' ones or fab up replacement items as a result.
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Post by buildercg on Sept 8, 2015 16:38:00 GMT
There is a drain for the fuel tank left front underside.. Thanks for the tip! I have about 5 gallons of gas still in the tank and was wondering how to empty it!
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Post by buildercg on Sept 8, 2015 16:39:48 GMT
One tip - keep everything from your teardown even if you don't think you'll need it. I pitched a couple of items during mine that I thought I'd never need (such as the dead pedal, relay mount brackets, etc.), and have had to either purchase 'new' ones or fab up replacement items as a result. Thanks! I have been thinking I would sell as much as possible to get rid of it/keep the garage clean but I'll put aside some of the parts that attach to other things. You also just answered a question I was going to pose to the group regarding if I should keep those mounting brackets for all the relays. I'll keep them all (along with the mounting bolts!)
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Post by buildercg on Sept 8, 2015 16:41:30 GMT
A question for the group regarding the VIN plates. Obviously there's on the dash and another on the oil pan (mine don't match due to engine replacement by prior owner). Are there any others on the body I need to cut out for records?
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 8, 2015 16:55:39 GMT
Behind the coil pack on firewall.. Check DMV in Mass.
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Post by buildercg on Sept 8, 2015 18:03:33 GMT
Thanks gwnwar! Getting the car to be road-legal - my goal - in MA is going to be a PITA. I've already run into some of the problems just getting the donor registered due to mismatch engine and body VIN. I learned from the state trooper who inspects finished kit vehicles that I've got to retain all identifying info and take copious pictures of any VIN removal. I also have to fully document any car parts I buy or sell. The slightest gap could mean that I cannot register the car.
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Sept 8, 2015 18:05:33 GMT
DO NOT remove any VIN plates! It is a felony in the USA.
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Post by buildercg on Sept 8, 2015 19:16:40 GMT
DO NOT remove any VIN plates! It is a felony in the USA. Hm. Thanks for the warning but this differs from what the state trooper I met with - at the MA car inspection site - told me that I should remove them (with lots of pictures!) and that I'd have to scrap the body. If I don't he said I won't be able to get a new VIN (required in MA for kit cars of this type) and thus will never be able to register the car. I guess I better make a follow-up phone call with this guy so I do it right.
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Sept 8, 2015 19:45:03 GMT
Interesting. The inspector here wanted to see all of the VIN plates, stickers, and stampings in their original positions. He checked the shell, doors, and he even asked to see the VIN that was attached to the removed dash panel. My car was all numbers matching so that made it a bit easier. He indicated that if I had removed the dash VIN plate it would have been VERY bad. But this is Alabama and you are in MA so it may be different but I would proceed with caution.
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 9, 2015 2:36:38 GMT
Take pics of body VIN under hood,top of both front fenders, doors, door opening by striker, under trunk lid, under rear bumper right side.. Take close ups and pics showing were VIN is on car.. Each state is different see if you can get things in writing code numbers.. Do you have a bill of sale for engine and trans.. Keep every piece of paper with item and amount on it. Make copy of them some will fade with age. keep a ledger.. kill them with paper work. make/keep copy of all papers and forms sent and emails..
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Post by buildercg on Sept 19, 2015 0:53:11 GMT
I'm having trouble getting the steering rack removed. I've got all of the nuts and bolts removed on the interior (2 12mm nuts and 3 10mm nuts) and the two on the steering rack side as well. I've pulled and pulled but I cannot get the rack to separate at the lower universal joint. Tomorrow I'm going to jack the car and use a wrench to rotate the bar to see if I can separate the joint using an old flat blade screwdriver where the steering shaft joins. I was also thinking about using some heat to try to loosen the part. Does anyone have any other ideas? Also, you can see that the power steering was disabled by the prior owner however I don't know if this unit is considered depowered or looped. The recent thread regarding this has me concerned that it might be looped. Can someone more knowledgeable tell from this picture?
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Post by dietcoke on Sept 19, 2015 7:32:42 GMT
Feed and return are looped together with that hose, so... looped.
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Post by mawdo81 on Sept 19, 2015 8:33:21 GMT
There is a thread where someone tied a tow rope to their steering wheel to remove the column...
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Post by stevednorris on Sept 19, 2015 12:31:12 GMT
I tied a ratchet strap to my steering column and tightened it while tapping the steering rack end with a hammer. It soon gave up.
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Post by greg on Sept 19, 2015 13:56:43 GMT
Got mine out with some penetrant oil and a pry bar.
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