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Post by buildercg on Jul 11, 2017 5:18:46 GMT
wires are plugged in correctly. I did not take them off the coil pack and they only fit one way.
I did replace timing. I tool pictures before, during, and after to ensure all three gears were in the same position. When I removed the old belt both the exhaust cam and main crank moved a little. I had to use a wrench to pull the exhaust cam back a notch or two to get it to align. The main turned about 1 tooth so I reversed it carefully. Fortunately, the engine is VERY clean and the marking were easy to get correct. That said, I will recheck.
I have the tube that hangs off the bottom passenger side of the throttle body. It connects to the main air line in. There's also a couple of smaller coolant? connections.
I have not tried adjusting the CAS yet. It's set about the middle. Did not know it could be moved while engine is cranking.
I sprayed some carb cleaner into one of the ports. The engine starts strong and runs for 5-10 seconds, depending on how much carb cleaner I spray in. When I give it gas the engine revs briefly and then dies. If I don't give it gas, it just runs for a few seconds and then dies. I'm thinking the issue is fuel related again. I'm going to check my fuel filter for blockage (shouldn't be as it's new) and also fuel flow. I have a permanent dash switch for running the pump manually so that makes it easy. I have my old fuel rail and injectors. I might switch the entire thing. Maybe injectors are no good after sitting for a while.
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 11, 2017 20:25:06 GMT
At least you got it running.. Was it smooth running.. Supply fuel line to front of fuel rail..
Fuel pressure.. Got gas in tank..
Just loosen the bolt that holds the CAS to head a 1/3>1/2 turn so you can just turn it or tap lightly with a small hammer..
The exhaust cam will stay in place by its self..
The intake cam will rotate toward the exhaust cam if not held in place.
You can use 2 wrenches on the cams and a clamp to hold them in place. That should line up the marks on the backing plate.
19 teeth between top gear marks..
Make sure crank is TDC..
Front cam lobes point outboard 9 and 3 from front..
When you did the belt did you do the rotation of the crank and set the crank gear to the 11 o'clock mark and release tensioner
and tighten it in place..
Then rotate crank again 1 turn+ and set it to TDC and recheck your marks..
Then button it up..
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Post by buildercg on Jul 11, 2017 23:41:19 GMT
Hi gwnwar. Thanks for the advice.
When I did the timing belt, I aligned all the timing marks with crankshaft at TDC and each cam pointing to the I or E (top) and with the I or E pointing to the inner markings as well. Before tightening the tensioner, I slowly rotated the main crankshaft twice. Then I tightened the tensioner. Then I took a ruler and placed across the two cams, and measured deflection of the timing belt (gently pushing down on it) was about 6mm. I could sneak a 5mm bolt under the ruler at the center point between the two cams. These were the instructions I was given the shop where I bought the engine. It's been two weeks, but as I recall, my intake cam (passenger side) did not move on it's own when the old belt was removed and I needed to use a wrench to pull the exhaust back. It's possible I have that that backwards.
The CAS was not installed until after the timing belt was one. My replacement engine did not have a CAS on it and I have no idea how it was set so I took the one from my burned up engine and set it to approximately the 1/2-way point.
I will take the cover off tonight and rotate the engine to TDC and count the teeth. I have "before" pictures but apparently I forgot to take "after" pictures. I see what you mean about the tooth count. Should be easy to check.
As I recall, the engine seemingly was running smooth it just didn't maintain. I tried two or three times (don't remember now). Will try again tonight assuming timing belt is correct, otherwise I'll work on timing (dang, I hope it's right...) It's gonna be a pita if I have to work on the timing belt with the radiator in place.
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Post by buildercg on Jul 15, 2017 20:57:58 GMT
Update on the car, it's still will not start/stay running.
1. I double checked the timing belt. Everything seems good. There's 19 teeth between the two cams and when the crankshaft is at TDS and the two cams are correctly positioned. Tension seems correct.
2. I disconnected the fuel supply side of the rail and ran the pump. Fuel flow but I don't know the pressure.
3. I disconnected the return side of the rail (with supply side connected) and ran the pump. Fuel does NOT flow, even after several minutes.
4. I removed the fuel regulator? (part on the return side of the rail) and ran the pump. Fuel flows.
5. I replaced the injectors with the injectors from my dead engine.
6. I tried repositioning the CAS, starting with it at it's maximum counterclockwise position and repositioning it until it was at it's full clockwise position. The engine is quicker to get it's "almost start" when the CAS is about 2/3rds of the way torward the most clockwise position. When it's at full clockwise (turned the most torward the passenger side) there's a bad sound. I won't position it like that again.
7. I tried checking the diagnostics, even though the engine won't stay running. When I ground TEN, the engine light stays on for about 3 seconds, then goes off.
8. I checked all fuses.
9. I added additional temporary grounds for the engine grounds, just in case there was a bad connection.
10. I replaced the fuel regulator? (end of the fuel rail on the return side) with the one from my old rail.
The engine will run for a few moments with a long squirt carb cleaner. It's smooth until the carb cleaner is completely burned up then it dies. If I touch the gas it dies immediately.
I talked to the guy who sold me the engine, he suggested the fuel pump could be the problem, even though fuel is flowing. His reasoning is that there should be fuel returning if the pressure is right, and no fuel is returned.
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Post by buildercg on Jul 17, 2017 0:18:58 GMT
I picked up a compression tester and a fuel pressure tester at HF today.
I must have a fault compression tester, because when the car cranks the needs jumps from zero to somewhere between 60 and 90; hard to tell because it then goes back to zero. It just jumps up and down. I know that the needle is supposed to "stick" at the high pressure but it doesn't do so. I checked all four cylinders with the same results. I'm assuming this is signs of a non-functioning, el-cheepo tool that wasn't worth the $30 I spent and not, instead, signs of a massive vacuum problem.
On to the fuel pressure tester. I got the "pro" kit with the bazillion fittings. It has one that has AN6 thread but doesn't fit 100% snug. It was leaking a small amount, but I don't think enough to change the fact that fuel pressure was reading zero. I believe the gauge was correct, because the fuel was moving very slowly when I just let it flow.
I'm going to check my fuel filter for blockage and clean it. Then I'll check the pump in the tank. I'm going to buy a new pump tonight.
Will I have problems if I go for a 255lph pump without upgrading my fuel rail or injectors? I plan to do so in the future and figure I don't want to buy a 100lph pump that I'll only use for a little while.
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Post by buildercg on Jul 17, 2017 2:12:09 GMT
Fuel filter had quite a bit of gunk it in. Cleaned it out and hooked it back up. Unfortunately, I spilled quite a bit of gas while trying to test fuel pressure so I hosed everything down and now I wait for the remnants to evaporate. I'll try to start the car again tomorrow.
I went ahead and bought a replacement fuel pump (255lph) just in case. I should have it on Tuesday.
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 17, 2017 4:30:44 GMT
Looks like you found the problem.. high 5..
I ran a 255 pump on my '99 with stock injectors and pressure regulator..
Were did the garbage in filter come from.. Did you put a new one on with the build??
Have you looked into the tank for trash..
Take the compression gauge back for your money back..
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Post by buildercg on Jul 17, 2017 13:30:34 GMT
I tried starting the car this morning and it wouldn't start, with the same behavior. I'll take the rear end off tonight and get the tank ready for the new pump.
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 17, 2017 17:02:56 GMT
What brand pump did you order.. You are putting in a new filter to right..Take the supple and return lines off tank and engine and filter and blow them clear... So you are starting all clean..Prime system jump FP and Grd. key on to fill system. The pump will only go on for 2 sec when you first turn key to start if it won't fire off.. Fill with fresh gas.. There should be a tank drain bottom of tank left/driver side forward (USA Builds)I know you are in Mass..
Just wondering how did you see and clear inside of filter.. It is a solid metal one right not glass.. Let us know what you find in the tank..
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Post by buildercg on Jul 18, 2017 0:05:38 GMT
What brand pump did you order.. You are putting in a new filter to right..Take the supple and return lines off tank and engine and filter and blow them clear... So you are starting all clean..Prime system jump FP and Grd. key on to fill system. The pump will only go on for 2 sec when you first turn key to start if it won't fire off.. Fill with fresh gas.. There should be a tank drain bottom of tank left/driver side forward (USA Builds)I know you are in Mass.. Just wondering how did you see and clear inside of filter.. It is a solid metal one right not glass.. Let us know what you find in the tank.. I replaced my tank with an ATL fuel cell and replaced all fuel lines with AN6 braided stainless steel. My filter is an Earl's model that is intended to be cleanable. By looking through the AN fitting the inside of the filter can be seen. I built a custom frame to hold my original fuel pump and fuel sender. I took my fuel pump out tonight and found multiple errors. I made my frame out of steel and painted it to protect from rust. The paint, but not primer, is liquifying. The filter on the pump is still see through, but darkened, I'm assuming from the paint. I also used electrical tape to keep the wires bound together inside the tank. Even though it's not been submerged, the glue is falling off. I also found that my fuel pickup was not tightly clamped enough and it slipped right off the pump as I removed it. I will make a new frame using some aluminum and rely on just wire shrink wrap. I'll blow out my fuel lines and change the gas. I added a switch on the dash to manually run the pump so priming will be easy. |
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Post by buildercg on Jul 18, 2017 0:15:34 GMT
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 18, 2017 1:03:34 GMT
I would wipe the tank out too.. Might have glue of paint on the sides and bottom.. On the OEM pump there is a star push on clip to hold the strainer to the pump.. No paint or primer in tank.. I would use the OEM power setup for powering the pump. AFM, fuel relay,
harness to tank.. I would cut into the black ground wire for the pump and switch that for a no start/start item.. Your way if you wrecked the pump would still be running even without engine running and putting gas who knows were..
I would change filter too..
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Post by buildercg on Jul 18, 2017 1:06:17 GMT
Yeah, I'm going wipe the tank clean and also clean the foam baffling.
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Post by buildercg on Jul 20, 2017 18:13:53 GMT
I build a new frame out of aluminum to support my pump and sender and got it installed late last night after draining and cleaning the fuel cell. I tested the sender and fuel pump before re-installing to ensure everything is electrically connected and working. Tonight I'll refuel and *hopefully* the engine will start.
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 20, 2017 19:49:16 GMT
Just wondering how far up from the bottom of the tank is the fuel pick of the pump not just the screen bag..
Recheck your black wires (2) at the connector for good ground to frame.
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