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Post by gwnwar on Jul 1, 2017 2:14:12 GMT
For that money you could buy a whole car. Take out engine and sell the rest. Check Craigslist around you for parted out miata and car for sale. Found this one in Boston metro west Craigslist post id: 6190561966 phone for Fred 508-654-5252 shot him a lower number..
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Post by buildercg on Jul 1, 2017 14:28:58 GMT
The guide I have says to use a 6-point 13mm socket which is what I'm using. This socket fits snugly on top of the bolt heads. Last night I used a rubber mallet and hammered the socket onto the top of the nut to no effect and the first "slip" and each time afterward. A 6 point 12mm socket does not fit. I'll try a 12 point 12mm socket tonight (not sure I have one, might have to buy one). I'm using 1/2" breaker bar with an adapter to a 3/8" socket as my 1/2" sockets are all too thick-walled to fit. I read about welding a nut on top but my welder is not appropriate (I have a cheap HF flux welder) for that nor do I have the skill. I also read that there's a tool that is designed to be hammered on to grab the head and allow for removal. Obviously, that destroys the bolt. I don't know anyone with any appropriate welder. If I cannot get it off then I'll grind the bolt head off (that I can definitely do) and pray that the head doesn't warp. I wrote this without tools near me so I have a correction...I was using a 6 point 12mm socket. |
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Post by buildercg on Jul 3, 2017 0:33:59 GMT
I picked up a replacement engine today from the local guy. The new one is a very clean 1991 long nose. The housing on the thermostat was either broken or got broken while they were moving it, so I pulled the one of my engine. I have everything needed for a timing belt change and since the thermostat housing requires removing the timing belt I'm replacing the tensioners and the belt. The front seal looks brand new - absolutely no sign of an oil leak - and since I don't have a replacement I'm not going to change it.
I have to finish installing the timing belt, but the front back together, install the coil pack, replace O-ring on the CAS and re-install, install valve cover, and then mount. I left my transmission in the car but I think that might have made things harder so I'll probably pull my transmission and then put them back in together.
Overall, the engine looks very clean. I probably won't have it back in the car until the 4th as I need to button up the engine (tonight) and I will be working tomorrow.
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 3, 2017 5:05:45 GMT
Good deal on local find.. Double check the timing marks crank and cam gears just for the heck of it..Check that the cursed water cap and vac port cap on rear end of intake manifold are in good condition.. Don't mix up the fuel supply and return hoses easy to do..
Enjoy the 4th..
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Post by buildercg on Jul 4, 2017 5:03:02 GMT
Engine is prepped to go in the car after I get some sleep.
* replaced timing belt
* replaced both timing belt pulleys
* freshened up the look of the water pump pulley and main pulley with a couple coats of automotive paint
* installed thermostat housing w/new o-ring
* cleaned up the CAS (prior owner had used some kind of sealant) and replaced the o-ring; reset for center as I don't know how it was originally set and this is a different engine
* removed the heavy clutch and flywheel that was attached and installed my lightweight flywheel and clutch; rear seal looks just as good as the front seal
* removed from my old fuel rail and then installed on the new fuel rail the AN -6 fittings for the fuel lines
* drained the residual oil - very little was in the new engine
* removed the power steering bracket
* installed heater core bypass hose
* replaced the oil filter
* removed the motor mounts for easier install; I will install my powder coated mounts once the engine is close to the correct position and after I have loosely fit a couple of bolts to the transmission
* checked the rubber fittings (everything appears good)
* cleaned up the engine a little; it's not bad (much cleaner than my old engine) but it has some grime in a few spots; I'm not going to spend the time to make it show quality before it goes back in
I have a couple of small things that I can correct with my car since the engine is out so I'll do those first thing then begin installing the motor.
A couple questions both pertaining to the 10mm bolts which hold the pulleys on. My book says to torque these little bolts to something like 74 ft/lb for both the water pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley. I cannot believe that this is correct as I can imagine doing so will destroy these small bolts. Right now I have them tightly installed (not torqued) using a socket (the main 21mm crankshaft bolt is torqued to either 74 or 84 ft/lb; cannot remember right now). Does anyone know the correct torque for the 10mm bolts? It cannot be 74 ft/lb...
I hope to be driving again by the end of the day.
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 4, 2017 5:39:55 GMT
Water pump pulley bolts 70>95 inch.lbs
Crank pulley small bolts 9.1>12.8 ft.lbs or 109.2>151 inch.lbs
The center crank bolt 116>122 ft.lbs.
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Post by buildercg on Jul 5, 2017 2:52:54 GMT
Thanks gwnwar. Inch pounds makes a LOT more sense. I'll double check the center crank when I do the other bolts.
Today was a catastrophe, as far as the car goes. I made a huge mistake by not taking the transmission out with the engine in the first place. I struggled for about 1/2 the day fruitlessly trying to get the transmission and engine to mate while dropping the engine in the bay with my very patient wife's help. She is not a car person, but she loves me and knows how important the project is to help out when I ask; I know not to ask too much.
Anyway, I couldn't get them to go together, so I pulled the engine back out and finally decided to pull the transmission, which I did. However, I forgot that when the driveshaft was removed that the transmission oil would spill out so I had about half my transmission fluid splash all over the floor.
In addition, once I had the engine out I realized that the clutch was no longer in alignment, so I had to redo that. Then I couldn't get my alignment tool in the clutch and I realized that I royally messed up all of the splines on my new clutch when I was trying to put the engine in the car earlier. I tried repairing the damage with a file. No good. It's toast. Fortunately, I have a spare but it's not new. Also fortunately, I didn't damage the transmission.
So now my engine and transmission are out of the car. The tools are put away for now while I lick my wounds. I have company coming and my son's birthday later this week so I probably won't get back to the car until the weekend.
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 5, 2017 5:00:35 GMT
Some times it is better to walk away for a day.. If you can get 2 long bolts the same thread as the 2 side bolts that hold the trans in cut the heads off and slot the shank for a screwdriver.. screw them in the engine to guide trans into place.. after a couple of bolts in tight remove guide bolts with screwdriver install OEM bolts.. Check your pilot bearing make sure it is still good..
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Post by buildercg on Jul 5, 2017 15:20:27 GMT
The damage on the clutch is to the splines. They are smashed flat for 1-2mm on the front, with the displaced metal partially filling the grooves. Since I have nothing to lose, I might try to use my dremel and a very fine bit to fix the issue, though I loose that first 1-2mm of the splines themselves. Bearing is good.
Having had the night to review my mistakes the other was that I believe I had the transmission in gear while I was trying to put the engine in, which made things that much more difficult to align.
A couple days away from the car is what I need right now. Clear the head and mind.
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Post by buildercg on Jul 9, 2017 2:16:20 GMT
Today I repaired the damage to my clutch. I used a dremel and a very fine diamond grinder to remove the smashed the metal. Overall, I lost about 1.5 mm of the spines on the transmission side but after repairing everything fits neatly. I tried to ensure that the clutch is balanced still and it seems okay. Hopefully I don't get crazy vibration.
I now have my engine and transmission mated again, installed the starter, alternator, and motor mounts. Everything is torqued correctly. Tomorrow I'll put it back in the car and if everything goes to plan the car will be ready to drive by tomorrow night, which is good because my wife and son are taking my daily driver on a road trip and my wife's car is going in the shop on Monday.
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Post by buildercg on Jul 10, 2017 3:44:24 GMT
Getting the engine in was a pain. I had to remove the driver side engine mount and use a big steel bar to get the engine to move back the final 1/2-bolt thickness and get the engine mounts aligned. Thank goodness I have a crane and two jacks. Also, while I did most of the install by myself, I could not have gotten the first engine mount in place without my wife helping. Definitely a 2 person job.
I spent almost the entire day working on the car and everything is now back together, with the exception of the hood which I've kept off so I have easy access to the radiator. I double checked all fluids for my sanity, let my fuel pump run for a few minutes to build pressure, and tried cranking. I get good crank and occasionally will try to catch but hasn't started yet. I might have reversed the fuel lines on accident. My feed is to the front of the rail and return on the back...my computer crashed when I tried to search and I just recovered it so I haven't done my search yet....I know that gwnwar has commented on this many times.
It's been a long day so going to bed, so the search for the answer tomorrow, and will try to get the car started in the afternoon.
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Post by buildercg on Jul 10, 2017 12:50:18 GMT
Okay, so front is supply..I've got that right. Car will crank but not start. I noticed the battery is a little low after sitting for a while so I'm charging it.
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 10, 2017 21:52:57 GMT
Got your air intake tube on.. Try spraying some starter fluid into the vac inlet on intake tube or on throttle body.. AFM plugged in.. Coil and injector harness plugged in.. Ground for coil and injectors to engine around rear of fuel rail.. Injectors clicking when cranking. use long screwdriver to your ear while wife cranks engine.You did unclip the AFM connector and NOT unscrew it right.. It is going to be something simple. If all that fails.. check out.. forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=279746 |
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Post by buildercg on Jul 11, 2017 0:23:14 GMT
Got your air intake tube on.. Try spraying some starter fluid into the vac inlet on intake tube or on throttle body.. AFM plugged in.. Coil and injector harness plugged in.. Ground for coil and injectors to engine around rear of fuel rail.. Injectors clicking when cranking. use long screwdriver to your ear while wife cranks engine.You did unclip the AFM connector and NOT unscrew it right.. It is going to be something simple. If all that fails.. check out.. forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=279746 thanks. car is still just barely not starting. a couple cylinders fire then it stalls back into just cranking. I've been checking everything repeatedly. I agree that it's probably something simple overlooked. I just came in from another hour of trying to get it started. I've confirmed fuel. pulled the plugs, they smelled of gas. cleaned and re-installed. I've confirmed spark (used a spare sparkplug, grounded to chassis with scrap steel, turned key, observed spark). thinking it's air. checked for leaks, tightened all clamps. checked for blockage. I can hear the afm clicking open and closed. I've checked all my engine grounds (two on passenger side coming off the harness and one on the driver side, off the block). I've tried flooring it and running starter for 10 seconds. no dice. I will try some carb cleaner into the unused port on the top of the intake manifold. I will run an additional ground or two to eliminate that possibility. My wife is out of state for a few days, so it's just me which makes checking things a bit harder. I did not reinstall my A/C fan (passenger side), which was previously in the car as I didn't know that fan was the A/C fan until after my engine quit. This wouldn't be the issue, would it? |
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 11, 2017 4:51:39 GMT
Plug wires on right way.. from pass side of car 3-2-1-4..
You replaced the timing belt right.. Have you checked the marks again on cam gears and crank TDC.. 19 teeth BETWEEN the marks on cam gears. Marks on gears and on backing plate line up. Get way down low to look at them..
Have you tried rotating the CAS a little while cranking. mark its location on head before moving it..
Do you have the hose in place between the ISC bottom of throttle body and intake tube..
You can run with just the left/drivers side fan..
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