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Post by gwnwar on May 9, 2017 5:06:48 GMT
buildercg.. Please use name of each relay as the same number relays are used for different thing in the elec. system. It makes it
easier..
Do you have power to and out of the Main Fuse 80A in the engine box.. it is bolted into the box..
Good ground between battery and PPF and Kit Frame, Engine to Kit Frame..
Blue wires are called by "L" like L/R. blue/red
Do you have power to the ECU L/R wire?? from the room fuse 10A inside box..
W/R is power TO the open circuit/ fuel relay. From ECU
Fuel Relay has Yellow top..
Are the 2 black ground wires in the dia box grounded to the frame/engine..Ohm meter..
Do you have continuity in both the LG (light green)wires runs from the Dia box and the Air Flow Meter to the fuel relay.. OHM meter 0.00 reading ..
Is the Black wire at the AFM grounded.. It goes to the multi ground connector with @ 5 wires to it engine compartment. Take connector apart and clean each wire.
There are 4 wires at the fuel pump plate connector L/R is power to pump when starting and running.. OR when the FP and the Grd. pins
in the DIA box are jumped with key on..
"Y" is for the fuel gauge.. 2 black wires are ground are both the black wires grounded to frame..OHM meter..
If you ground the Y wire at the fuel plate connector with the key on the gauge should swing to full it will take a few seconds to
start reading..
The V wire to the fuel/open circuit relay only get power in key position "start"..
Do you have the connector between the F and R harness connected good..
There are 2 large wire connectors under dash with many wires that are/look the same size and can be interchanged by mistake..
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Post by gwnwar on May 9, 2017 5:34:48 GMT
In your # 2 the AD fuse. You say you have power on both sides of the fuse. is this the FUSE its self or the wire to each side of the fuse you should have power to supply the fuse then out of it in a L/Y wire.. But you say the fuse blows, is this only if you turn the key on.. Have you checked the wire out of the fuse L/Y into the connector and harness with an OHM meter to see if the wire is grounded
It should not be.. it runs to the AC relay that was by the right head lamp.. Did you cut any wires around there..
Do you have the connectors around the engine box connected to the right mate connector.. Or cut wires grounding out..
Did you get your alternator wired in right get that done..
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Post by calibuild on May 9, 2017 14:20:37 GMT
Wiring isn't the most fun, but you do learn a lot. Have you tried your muffler before? Curious how much louder it is than stock (subjective), but if 10 is standing next to a passenger train, and 1 is stock, where would you guesstimate? Yes, I am learning a lot. I really didn't know how to use a multimeter before but now I sorta do! On the muffler, it's from my donor. I've never owned a Miata with a stock exhaust (my donor was my first). It gives a nice rumble. Not too loud and should not be a problem for passing noise requirements for regular driving or autocross. It's definitely not nearly as loud as a Harley but it's also quite a bit louder than my CR-V (before you all berate me, I can't stand my CRV and it's a big reason I'm doing this project) or my wife's Camry. I'd say it's around a 3 or 4 with the throttle wide open though it's now been well over a year since it last made a peep. It really hangs off the back though, which I'm not too keen about (worried about my wife, son, or stranger walking into a hot piece of steel) so I will eventually look into replacing it with something more compact. Gratuitous picture of rear end (I still need to install a bracket):  Thanks! I have the same issue with the stock muffler hanging way out. Hoping to measure an FRS muffler this week as I can't confirm the inlet diameter. It looks like the Hyundai Genesis Coupe has the same inlet diameter, but I don't know anybody with one to measure the width. The other option seems to be a 350z, but again, can't find specs. Good to hear the sound is nice. |
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Post by buildercg on May 9, 2017 22:50:30 GMT
buildercg.. Please use name of each relay as the same number relays are used for different thing in the elec. system. It makes it easier.. Do you have power to and out of the Main Fuse 80A in the engine box.. it is bolted into the box.. Good ground between battery and PPF and Kit Frame, Engine to Kit Frame.. Blue wires are called by "L" like L/R. blue/red Do you have power to the ECU L/R wire?? from the room fuse 10A inside box.. W/R is power TO the open circuit/ fuel relay. From ECU Fuel Relay has Yellow top.. Are the 2 black ground wires in the dia box grounded to the frame/engine..Ohm meter.. Do you have continuity in both the LG (light green)wires runs from the Dia box and the Air Flow Meter to the fuel relay.. OHM meter 0.00 reading .. Is the Black wire at the AFM grounded.. It goes to the multi ground connector with @ 5 wires to it engine compartment. Take connector apart and clean each wire. There are 4 wires at the fuel pump plate connector L/R is power to pump when starting and running.. OR when the FP and the Grd. pins in the DIA box are jumped with key on.. "Y" is for the fuel gauge.. 2 black wires are ground are both the black wires grounded to frame..OHM meter.. If you ground the Y wire at the fuel plate connector with the key on the gauge should swing to full it will take a few seconds to start reading.. The V wire to the fuel/open circuit relay only get power in key position "start".. Do you have the connector between the F and R harness connected good.. There are 2 large wire connectors under dash with many wires that are/look the same size and can be interchanged by mistake.. Thanks for the reply gwnwar. I'm hoping to work on the car tonight and will have this with me. |
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Post by buildercg on May 10, 2017 1:09:33 GMT
In your # 2 the AD fuse. You say you have power on both sides of the fuse. is this the FUSE its self or the wire to each side of the fuse you should have power to supply the fuse then out of it in a L/Y wire.. But you say the fuse blows, is this only if you turn the key on.. Have you checked the wire out of the fuse L/Y into the connector and harness with an OHM meter to see if the wire is grounded It should not be.. it runs to the AC relay that was by the right head lamp.. Did you cut any wires around there.. Do you have the connectors around the engine box connected to the right mate connector.. Or cut wires grounding out.. Did you get your alternator wired in right get that done.. I have cut a lot of wires...I know I shouldn't have and I definitely regret it now but I know I'll get this resolved eventually. The AD fan fuse blows upon getting inserted, with the key in OFF, ON, or RUN (yes, I've wasted 3 fuses). What's confusing me is that I get voltage on both terminals (fuse removed) when key is ON/RUN but only voltage on the "always on" terminal when key is OFF. Therefore I expect fuse to only blow with key in ON/RUN but that's not what happens. There is a R/L wire listed on my all three of the available diagrams (the one you pointed me too last year for the '94, from my Chilton's guide, and this one from on Amazon for the '92) I have which has continuity from the AD fan fuse and NOT from the HEAD fuse. This seemingly contradicts all three of the wiring diagrams which indicate that the HEAD fuse should connect to the R/L wire. When I disconnected the R/L wire from the headlight relay the headlights stopped working so I'm now wondering if there's a problem within the wiring of the fuse box. There is no L/Y wire at all (everything that was on my donor is plugged in). I have not opened up the fuse box itself. Is it possible a prior owner mucked with it or that there's a melted wire(s) inside causing shorts? There's no visible evidence of heat damage. I was trying to figure that out last night - I figure something must be miswired - when the cold temperature drove me out of the garage (low last night was 35; not much better forecast tonight).  I am partially color blind, so I've had my family help me identify a few wires. I have not really done anything with the alternator. I did not unwrap the wiring in that section and the alternator is connected as it was. It has a W/B (black) wire which runs to a different portion of the wiring harness I have not touched (back of the engine). As always, thanks for your help! |
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Post by gwnwar on May 10, 2017 6:58:34 GMT
I think I see the L/Y wire in your pic. bottom edge.. It is in a bunch with orange tape around them there is a heavy white, R/W, R/Y, L/Y.. they go in under the connectors. The L/Y come out of fuse box as part of the engine harness and connect to the front harness at a connector by the box and runs to the AC relay..
Yes the Head fuse should power the R/L wire.for the head lamps.. it gets its power from the Main fuse80A in the box. If you open the box you will see that many fuses are powered b the main fuse..
Just what wires did you cut out of harness.. are any of the cut ends touching another wire or ground.. Are the 2 large connectors that were by the blower motor case connected to the right mate plug they look and fit the same into the wrong plug..
Pull all connectors off the fuse box put in a new fuse it should not blow. put connects back on one at a time to you fine which one blows the fuse. It is going to end up being something simple..
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Post by buildercg on May 10, 2017 12:38:52 GMT
I think I see the L/Y wire in your pic. bottom edge.. It is in a bunch with orange tape around them there is a heavy white, R/W, R/Y, L/Y.. they go in under the connectors. The L/Y come out of fuse box as part of the engine harness and connect to the front harness at a connector by the box and runs to the AC relay.. Yes the Head fuse should power the R/L wire.for the head lamps.. it gets its power from the Main fuse80A in the box. If you open the box you will see that many fuses are powered b the main fuse.. Just what wires did you cut out of harness.. are any of the cut ends touching another wire or ground.. Are the 2 large connectors that were by the blower motor case connected to the right mate plug they look and fit the same into the wrong plug.. Pull all connectors off the fuse box put in a new fuse it should not blow. put connects back on one at a time to you fine which one blows the fuse. It is going to end up being something simple.. Thanks gwnwar. I was afraid someone was going to say "that's the wire right there" when I posted a pic. I didn't get any time on the car last night due to cold temps (just above freezing) and the rest of the week is not looking much better but I took a look at this morning before writing this. The wires on the bottom edge/left side of the picture wrapped in black and orange tape are coming from the battery and transmission. I didn't change at all except right at the battery, to remove the two fuses that were there for the antenna and the associated relay. The wire coming straight down to the right bottom corner is solid brown/cut. This was connected to the popup motors. The smaller wire next with the big wad of orange tape on it was cut by prior owner and is mostly yellow with a red stripe, so that would be listed as Y/R correct? One the right side of the picture, there are two white wires. One is solid white and runs to the column. The other is W/R (white with red stripe) and provides power to the room, hazard, and stop fuses. There are no wires that are principally blue (unless I'm more color blind that I thought). The only wire with any blue on it is the R/L wire. Tonight, assuming it's not 35 oF again, I'm going to pull the box out so that it's easy to test wires and also ask my wife to take a look. Maybe she'll see colors I don't. Then I'm going to trace all of the wires to their end points and make my own diagram, while comparing against the official ones. Everything is exposed now so that should be easy. As you mention, it's probably something simple and I agree that I probably have a wire either grounded that shouldn't be or two wires connected which shouldn't be. Thanks again! |
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Post by buildercg on May 10, 2017 12:43:33 GMT
gwnwar...it just struck me...I assumed all of the fuses in the main fuse box have removable connectors which is why I'm only looking at those wires...the main bundle coming from the battery side, is that where the AD fan wire runs to/non-removable? I haven't unwrapped that side. While the only changes were on the far end, I did put new protective wrap and retape everything on the near side. As I mentioned, prior owner had made their own changes/specifically deleted the A/C compressor. Maybe while I was installing the battery side of the harness something came loose and is now touching metal/wires touching..
I'll investigate that side as well...
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Post by buildercg on May 15, 2017 19:57:41 GMT
Very little time on the car last week due to cold temps at night. Good forecast coming looking ahead, so I'm hoping I work out the wiring issue and move on. I did make some progress on gwnar's questions and fixing my screwups. - Completely unwrapped the wiring harness from engine - ECU - dash so I can check every wire. Waste of a lot of tape but it uncovered two wires I had forgotten about.
- Fixed headlights.
- Moved my ECU from underneath my wiring box to make it easier to test.
- Checked the alternator wiring: it seems correct. There is a W/B wire runs from main fuse box to alternator and that wire exists/has continuity; supposed to go to attach to the dash. I need to connect it.
- Oil pressure sensor wiring traced/re-connected.
- I've checked all the wires to the fuel pump relay and all have continuity to the correct spots.
- I checked all my grounds and all are solid. As far as I can tell, I am not missing any grounds.
- The ECU is getting power to L/R wire with key in ON position (haven't checked "start" yet).
- The V wire only gets power on START; checked at ECU and fuel pump relay.
- Front/rear harness connection is correct. Tail lights work, fuel sender works, fuel pump has continuity to fuel pump relay.
- Have to double check, but not getting power on W/R wire from ECU to fuel pump relay under any circumstance.
- CEL not working. Wire is connected and pass continuity. I need to check if power flows when key in ON position and also check bulb.
- I had incorrectly (very dumbly!!!) removed one of the dash wiring connectors (the one for oil pressure, temperature, CEL, and several other functions). Fortunately I kept it and am wiring it back in place.
- I have not checked power to 80amp fuse, but it's not blown. I assume starter won't engage if this fuse is blown and my starter does engage.
- Both grounds for Diag box are properly grounded.
- No power to fuel pump even when jumped via Diag box.
- Mapped out main fuse box. I don't have my notes with me but I have one wire I cannot identify.
- Checked fuel pump relay continuity: seems correct.
- Checked main relay continuity: seems correct (this is a new relay; old relay had no continuity).
- All fuses are good.
I'm hoping to get some time in the garage tonight.
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Post by gwnwar on May 16, 2017 16:48:01 GMT
looks like you got a lot done.. If you put power to the W/R at the fuel relay does the pump work with the key in start from a couple of seconds.. And does pump work with the FP and Grd jumped and key ON?? I am down in Fort Lauderdale till the weekend so no books with me..
Will have to go from memory.. Will help when I can..
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Post by buildercg on May 17, 2017 19:57:35 GMT
looks like you got a lot done.. If you put power to the W/R at the fuel relay does the pump work with the key in start from a couple of seconds.. And does pump work with the FP and Grd jumped and key ON?? I am down in Fort Lauderdale till the weekend so no books with me.. Will have to go from memory.. Will help when I can.. Hope you're having fun on your trip. I did get a few more hours in the garage over the last few nights but no success on the main problem yet. I tried bypassing the TNS? relay (it's an HD22 with 3 12-gauge L wires in, 1 B out) thinking it might be the problem. I discovered that bypassing it causes the starter to engage when key is turned to ON instead of START and found that the voltage on B wire is the same under both conditions, so I it seems to be fine. I'm seeing a tiny amount of voltage (> .3) on the W/R wire feeding the fuel pump relay immediately and only for a brief moment when the key changes from START to ON. Otherwise no voltage. I checked continuity on this wire to all the end points (there are quite a few) and everything checks out. I haven't tried supplying power by bypassing the relays. Jumping at the diag box still doesn't do anything. I'm going to double check the splice for W/R wire though it has continuity to all locations. I connected the alternator W/B wire to the dash. It provides a constant 12V even with the key removed. It does not seem to solve or create any problems. It does not light up anything on the dash, even when the battery is down to 70%. I double checked all my grounds. I found that the R wire (this is the two layer wire which has an integrated grounded casing and is gray most of it's length) running from computer to air intake did not have continuity (both layers) so I fixed that but still no power leaving the fuel pump. Working on checking continuity for all wires which helps me make my own wiring diagrams. Slow but steady. Separately, I'm shopping for a backup ECU and found a local shop with several replacements. I'll likely pick one up this weekend as I'm concerned that the CEL light is still not working (there's no signal on the wire leaving the ECU when the key is in any position) and my research points to a dead/problem ECU. |
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Post by buildercg on May 22, 2017 1:24:43 GMT
I found my wiring problems and as of just a few minutes ago my Exocet is ALIVE!
I have to find out how to post video.
Problem was 3 fold:
1. miswired ENGINE fuse to my new box
2. bad rewire of R wire from air handler to computer, out wire needs to be grounded
3. (remaining issue, no perm fix yet) the ignition switch is damaged/shows signs of overheating. when the ignition switch is properly installed, the L (blue) wire which runs to METER and (now) ENGINE fuse was not getting power. By uninstalling the switch, effectively changing the path of the wires, the L wire gets power. I suspect the wire is partially broken. I will investigae tomorrow.
My CEL now works as well, as does the diag box..again, as long as ignition switch is not installed.
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Post by buildercg on May 22, 2017 3:12:57 GMT
I found my wiring problems and as of just a few minutes ago my Exocet is ALIVE! I have to find out how to post video. Problem was 3 fold: 1. miswired ENGINE fuse to my new box 2. bad rewire of R wire from air handler to computer, out wire needs to be grounded 3. (remaining issue, no perm fix yet) the ignition switch is damaged/shows signs of overheating. when the ignition switch is properly installed, the L (blue) wire which runs to METER and (now) ENGINE fuse was not getting power. By uninstalling the switch, effectively changing the path of the wires, the L wire gets power. I suspect the wire is partially broken. I will investigae tomorrow. My CEL now works as well, as does the diag box..again, as long as ignition switch is not installed. The problem is the switch. By twisting the switch with key in RUN position I can watch power flick on and off. |
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Post by gwnwar on May 23, 2017 7:11:30 GMT
new switch part only around $45.00..
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Post by buildercg on May 24, 2017 2:49:34 GMT
I've got electrical mostly done and I've put the cover on the box. Still need to get a new switch and make a panel to hold my hazard switch, USB charger, and interior light switch. Heading to a local guy who specializes in Miata parts sometime this week.
Moved on to installing shock spacers as my car was barely off the ground with my Vmax coilovers maxed out. The front was fairly easy but I had to cut down the bolts on the top of my coilovers and also shorten the mounting bolts to install the rear. I believe others have had similar issue. While I was at it, I was also checking torque on all the bolts. I had to re-install a couple of cam bolts which were installed backwards. On the front end, it was relatively easy to fix the bolts behind the steering rack (I had to temporarily remove the rack) but on the rear end I had to disconnect the rear crossmember and drop it (carefully) about 3 inches to work on the bolts closest to the cabin. It was a lot of work to fix those two bolts - to anyone who hasn't done this - install all adjustable cam bolts so that the nut is toward the back of the car so that you can torque them later. I just have to tighten up the rear end and suspension will be complete.
I also hung the exhaust so I no longer need a jack to hold it up. I'll pick up a second hanger as well.
One of the last mechanical issues I haven't addressed is the speedometer cable. I wish that the Exo came with the hole precut and the lack of a pre-existing hole has stopped me so far. I'm not sure if my cheepo hole saws are up to the task of cutting through the thick metal. Do most of you guys switch over to GPS instead? I haven't taken apart the dash pod. Can the mechanical speedometer be replaced by an electronic one?
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