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Post by gwnwar on Nov 6, 2016 4:18:48 GMT
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Post by buildercg on Nov 7, 2016 3:54:17 GMT
This worked great to stop the hyperclick but my signals are still not working correctly. I'm fairly certain at this point that I must have a ground missing or something is leaking current as I've temporarily added a ground for my front-driver turn signal and side marker, leaving the original ground wire loose. With the original wire not touching anything, all heck breaks loose when I turn on hazard and/or turn on the turn signals. All the timers start firing wrong and the fuel pump starts running (even with the key out of the ignition). As soon as I ground the loose wires all the problems stops. The other issue I have is that the hazard lights only work correctly when the light switched to "off". When I turn on the running lights or the headlights, the timer still ticks correctly but the lights stop flashing. Again, I'm figuring something is not grounded but I haven't found the issue yet. I'm not great with electrical but I'm going to start pulling individual fuses and see if I can get everything to work correctly with any specific fuse removed to isolate the trouble circuit. Hopefully this works. |
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Post by buildercg on Nov 7, 2016 15:47:18 GMT
This worked great to stop the hyperclick but my signals are still not working correctly. I'm fairly certain at this point that I must have a ground missing or something is leaking current as I've temporarily added a ground for my front-driver turn signal and side marker, leaving the original ground wire loose. With the original wire not touching anything, all heck breaks loose when I turn on hazard and/or turn on the turn signals. All the timers start firing wrong and the fuel pump starts running (even with the key out of the ignition). As soon as I ground the loose wires all the problems stops. The other issue I have is that the hazard lights only work correctly when the light switched to "off". When I turn on the running lights or the headlights, the timer still ticks correctly but the lights stop flashing. Again, I'm figuring something is not grounded but I haven't found the issue yet. I'm not great with electrical but I'm going to start pulling individual fuses and see if I can get everything to work correctly with any specific fuse removed to isolate the trouble circuit. Hopefully this works. Found out that pulling either the 15amp "tail" fuse or the 15amp "hazard" fuse causes the signals to stop working (turn signals/side marker lights). Is this normal or indicative of a wiring issue? |
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 7, 2016 20:14:46 GMT
The Meter fuse powers the combo switch. Hazard powers the clicker unit.. Is the black wire off unit grounded..There were 2 ground spots in rear between the tail lamp units and on the rear shelf left side. front ground was under brake master and right side/end
of dash.. the B/R wire to clicker should be powered all the time though the hazard fuse. Grounding the orange wire should start the flashers working.. Time to check each wire run.. Blow up and print the wiring run.. May be time to walk away and do something else then go back..
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Post by buildercg on Nov 7, 2016 21:07:39 GMT
The Meter fuse powers the combo switch. Hazard powers the clicker unit.. Is the black wire off unit grounded..There were 2 ground spots in rear between the tail lamp units and on the rear shelf left side. front ground was under brake master and right side/end of dash.. the B/R wire to clicker should be powered all the time though the hazard fuse. Grounding the orange wire should start the flashers working.. Time to check each wire run.. Blow up and print the wiring run.. May be time to walk away and do something else then go back.. Thanks gwnwar. There were three ground wires in the engine bay that I had forgotten to attach (2 on passenger side via the harness, 1 on driver via block). I've attached all three and still have the same issue. I've ensured that the rear lights each have their own ground to avoid spillover from one light to the other causing them to trigger each other. Going to run temporary grounds in the front to do the same thing. Along the way, I'll look for wiring screwups. I've run a temporary ground directly from the flasher unit - in parallel with the original wire - and that did not fix the problem. I'll ensure that orange wire is grounded too. I don't currently have new license plate lights or a center tail light, but I'll wire those up temporarily to the original lights to ensure that's not causing the problem. |
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 8, 2016 1:59:46 GMT
Orange wire only needs grounding when you want the 4 way flashers to blink. Are you running LEDs all around.. might want to go back to OEM lamps to get problem fixed then switch.. Did all the lamps work as they should before tear down.. Is the flasher unit good have you checked it on another car.. What wire printout are you using..
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Post by buildercg on Nov 8, 2016 3:35:25 GMT
Orange wire only needs grounding when you want the 4 way flashers to blink. Are you running LEDs all around.. might want to go back to OEM lamps to get problem fixed then switch.. Did all the lamps work as they should before tear down.. Is the flasher unit good have you checked it on another car.. What wire printout are you using.. I need 4-ways to work to pass road inspection. They currently only work with side running lights/headlights turned off. I have LEDs for taillights and front side markers. Headlights and front turn signals are not LED. OEM lamps are long sold. The car had a couple electrical problems before I started the teardown. I found two broken wires - both in the front driver-side portion of the harness in the engine compartment leading to the lights - so I'm not surprised or (yet) terribly frustrated with this saga. Front driver running light was non-functioning before the teardown, headlights would not always open/retract (motor), and the left-side turn signal was unreliable. One of the broken wires was the positive line for the non-functioning light. It's possible my flasher unit is not working correctly though with the mod you pointed out it now clicks correctly in all of my tests. I've yet to check the output (on my list) using a meter (a little afraid to ruin my meter, I'm not strong with electronics). This is the wiring diagram I've been using. |
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 8, 2016 6:40:17 GMT
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Post by buildercg on Nov 8, 2016 13:53:02 GMT
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Post by buildercg on Nov 14, 2016 4:46:37 GMT
I've resolved the problems with my lights. The LED taillights I am using are intended to have the wires for both the running lights and signals on a single line into the fixture. This is causing bleeding to all the running lights when the signals are on. My solution is to have independent rear turn signals. While not as "pretty", since I need an extra fixture, it works great. As an added bonus, it guarantees amber rear turn lights which may be required for street legality (law is not clear) in my home state of MA.
Electrically, I've got all the non-engine components now sorted and much of the harness is removed - I've probably removed 40% of the weight.
I have to work on my exhaust and then I'll be close to starting the engine.
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Post by buildercg on May 4, 2017 18:35:07 GMT
After taking most of the winter away from the car, I'm once again working on it most nights. Having had all the electrical components working in November but not fitting neatly, I've spent many nights and weekends over the past eight weeks rerouting wires. This took me down a very unwise/frustrating path which included cutting and shortening almost every wire (yes, I ignored the warnings that others on this board had posted to not do this). While I would not follow this path again, I'm happy with the outcome as I was able to remove almost everything that is not needed and I have a very neat wiring setup now. Also, I finally got everything working again last night (tip for others following my path: a nearly dead battery causes the car to act like a ground is missing; keep the battery charged!).  My next step is to finish the exhaust, add coolant, and start the engine. |
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Post by buildercg on May 8, 2017 1:27:02 GMT
Well, I spoke too soon. Everything is not working. After getting the exhaust hooked up (not hanging on it's own yet, need to install a couple of hangers) I put gas in the tank and tried starting the car. I get crank but the fuel pump does not come on - it is not getting power. I've spent most of the weekend looking at the wiring guide gwnwar pointed me to as well as my books and a different wiring guide I found that's more specific to the '92 car (but less detailed; a few wires in the '94 diagram are different colors on my car). I've also found a few detailed posts on miata.net which help with troubleshooting. Tracing backwards, I have checked continuity between the pump and fuel pump relay. I've found that the fuel relay is not getting power to the white/red wire. I believe this wire is supposed to be hot when the key in is RUN. The purple wire, which also runs to the fuel pump receives power only when the engine is cranking. I found that the white/red wire for the fuel pump relay also is the same wire that powers the ECU and that it picks up power from the S6B8 relay in the main fuse box. I believe my relay was bad (I tested it did not get continuity across any of the terminals) so I replaced it with a $70 box from Advanced Auto. Even after replacing the relay, I still get no power to the fuel relay on the white/red wire. The S6B8 relay connects to the HD22 relay, which is supposed to send power when the key is in the RUN position. I can hear the HD22 relay click when the key is turned and I've checked for continuity of the black/red wire that runs from it to the fuse box. I've gone so far as using the diagnostics module to force power to the fuel pump. I've also tried jumping the S6B8 relay (with the relay removed) to force power to the ECU and fuel pump relay. And I've tried jumping the fuel pump relay. None have worked. A few other issues I've noticed are that: 1. My check engine light does not come on. I've read that could indicate that my ECU is dead but it might also be due to me removing wires that I shouldn't have. I found 6 wires that I shouldn't have cut, one of which was the CEL wire. However, I reconnected the CEL wire and ensured it has continuity. I've also checked it for voltage when the key is in the ON position and gotten no power, though this may be due to the S6B8 relay not providing power to the ECU and fuel pump. I've read that checking the ECU is a "dealer only" task due to expensive equipment. Is there any way for me to check the ECU myself or at least that my CEL light is working? 2. I seem to have a short on the 20 amp AD fan fuse in the main fuse box. According to all of the diagrams I have access to, this fuse should be only for running the A/C. However, if I leave the connector unplugged my headlights don't function. If I plug in the connector, I find that I have power on both ends of the fuse (causing the short). However, when I test each wire in the plug I haven't detected any voltage and thus I haven't been able to figure out why the fuse keeps blowing (it blows instantly). My donor originally had A/C but the prior owner removed the compressor. The fuse was blown when I checked it and I have no way of knowing how long it was like that (it could have been blown when I bought the car). I'm wondering if this is the true source issue. I mentioned that there were some wires I removed that I now realize I shouldn't have. They all connect to the dash. Specifically, I have to reconnect: 1. oil pressure (orange?yellow?/red w/silver spots) 2. coolant temperature (black/blue w/red spots) 3. ignition coil (white/black with silver spots; runs to LA12 relay; LA12 relay has red/green wire that runs to  ) 4. alternator (yellow/blue?green? w/double silver spots) I'm going to reconnect them all. What's interesting is that I have not yet found the sources for these wires - they don't match anything that I've worked on and I haven't found any splice points where I put on caps. I also saved every scrap of wire that I cut out and couldn't match anything except for the LA12 relay). I assume all of these wires run along the right side. That side of the harness has been taped since November. I'm guessing that they connect to wires of other colors or that I buried the other ends in my wrapped up harness. I will start taking it apart. Color blindness doesn't help. Some of these wires I cannot tell the color and I have to look at where they're connecting and then read the guide. |
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Post by buildercg on May 8, 2017 1:41:59 GMT
On the plus side, I did get a few other things done. Like I mentioned, exhaust is hooked up. My stock Miata cat didn't fit: I was trying to be part of the tunnel wall so I replaced it with a Magnaflow and bolted it on with flex pipe. I know the flex pipe is not ideal but it will last a few years.   At the same time, I insulated the tunnel with heat and soundproofing.  I also started cutting out the dash pod using a dremel. I've broke a lot of dremel cutting blades. I've only got a rough shape so far. I was hoping for a near perfect fit but that's not to be. At this point I'll take "close". It's been wet around these parts and the floorboards are very slippery so I finally put down my noslip tape. Very nice now.  |
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Post by calibuild on May 8, 2017 19:47:38 GMT
Wiring isn't the most fun, but you do learn a lot.
Have you tried your muffler before? Curious how much louder it is than stock (subjective), but if 10 is standing next to a passenger train, and 1 is stock, where would you guesstimate?
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Post by buildercg on May 8, 2017 21:04:41 GMT
Wiring isn't the most fun, but you do learn a lot. Have you tried your muffler before? Curious how much louder it is than stock (subjective), but if 10 is standing next to a passenger train, and 1 is stock, where would you guesstimate? Yes, I am learning a lot. I really didn't know how to use a multimeter before but now I sorta do! On the muffler, it's from my donor. I've never owned a Miata with a stock exhaust (my donor was my first). It gives a nice rumble. Not too loud and should not be a problem for passing noise requirements for regular driving or autocross. It's definitely not nearly as loud as a Harley but it's also quite a bit louder than my CR-V (before you all berate me, I can't stand my CRV and it's a big reason I'm doing this project) or my wife's Camry. I'd say it's around a 3 or 4 with the throttle wide open though it's now been well over a year since it last made a peep. It really hangs off the back though, which I'm not too keen about (worried about my wife, son, or stranger walking into a hot piece of steel) so I will eventually look into replacing it with something more compact. Gratuitous picture of rear end (I still need to install a bracket):  |
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