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Post by einy on Sept 3, 2015 11:33:55 GMT
I found a ~ $25 'adder' that gives me the 90 degree capability from Dewalt (at either HD or Lowes). Only 'bummer' is that you have to use the special hex end drill bits, but even with buying a couple of those, that 90 degree head is a bargain!
One thing to watch out for - I scuffed the powerdercoated floor pan area near the rear bulkhead on one side when drilling those rivet holes. The cross tubes are so close to the floor pan that the chuck on my drill rubbed ever so slightly on them when drilling. Wish I had been smart enough to put some cardboard on top of the pans the first time around while drilling.
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Post by dietcoke on Sept 4, 2015 3:25:18 GMT
Forgot to stop for a 90* drill so didn't get much done today. Replaced upper A arms with V8R pro series with roto joints since my balljoints were shot. Overkill probably, but these are pretty nice.  Also got the electronics box riveted in, and laid rivnuts for the top. I underestimated how much time it takes to properly do a rivnut, its about a minute a piece. Tedious work, but the finished product is nice.  |
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Post by dietcoke on Sept 4, 2015 3:26:16 GMT
One thing: The ls1 pcm is too large to fit in the box, so I will probably hang it on the upper part of the passenger bulkhead. Makes sense.
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Post by boileralum on Sept 4, 2015 4:04:24 GMT
What's the weight on the V8R UCAs vs stock?
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Post by dietcoke on Sept 4, 2015 4:09:41 GMT
beats me. the stock ones dont weigh anything, so probably close to the same. the lowers probably save some pounds.
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Post by dietcoke on Sept 6, 2015 5:40:27 GMT
Got the 90 drill, made every job 90 times easier. Highly recommend. Anyway, you can see the "sandwich plate" here for the trans mount.  It's really quite the odd piece, but I suppose it strengthens the tube wall where the mount goes through. It's made by exomotive, but the V8R trans mount won't work without it. No one tell you that, though. You have to ask exomotive to send it to you, its not a V8R product (which is strange). Kevin hooked me up here. I think in a perfect world it would be welded to the tube, and I may pursue that at a later date - stitched if nothing else. There isn't much lateral force at this point, so its probably fine. I used M8-1.25x60mm socket head cap screws (12.9 grade) since a hex would be too large. Regular flange locknuts on the inside. Perfect. Here's what it looks like mounted (front hole isnt drilled yet, will do that later)  Got one of the bulkheads riveted in  Also flipped the shifter on the magnum to the rearmost position. Will have to cut a hole for it in the trans tunnel since the miata hole is about 2 inches too far rearward.  |
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Post by dietcoke on Sept 6, 2015 5:43:57 GMT
I'm going to test fit the driveshaft, it will probably have to be shortened ~1.75" since the magnum is a little longer then a regular t56
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Post by dietcoke on Sept 6, 2015 11:31:34 GMT
After eyeballing it, 2.5" is probably closer to what it needs, so I'll have it cut 2.5. Got the steering stuff and the pedal braces in... but the steering is hard. I might need to loosen the rack some, possibly overtightened the rack bar bushing.  Also finished all the rest of the bulkhead rivets other then the tunnel, and got the radiator ready to mount  |
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Post by dietcoke on Sept 8, 2015 12:11:41 GMT
I got the brakes on and half the brake lines routed. Need to get the e-brake on, front brake lines, prop valve, and secure it all under the car (along with the fuel line). Might make some headway on that today. Still no shock spacers from exomotive, waiting on shocks from FM... maybe this week. I'd like to have it on the ground this week. Also going to adjust steering rack tension.
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Post by dietcoke on Sept 10, 2015 2:26:29 GMT
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Post by dietcoke on Sept 10, 2015 2:52:12 GMT
Also of minor note, the driveshaft was shortened 2.75" for the magnum t56. Was dead on the money perfect length.
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 10, 2015 5:29:24 GMT
With that hole in tunnel make a tray for it to hold cell or switch panel..
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Post by mawdo81 on Sept 10, 2015 6:57:11 GMT
Won't you need a bigger hole if you have to move/remove the trans in the future?
Sent from my GT-I8190N using proboards
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Post by dietcoke on Sept 10, 2015 12:07:20 GMT
No, the shifter unbolts, and if you removed the trans mount it would drop straight down. Truthfully if I ever had to do any real trans work I'd just remove the tunnel.
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Post by jwagner on Sept 10, 2015 14:41:28 GMT
With that hole in tunnel make a tray for it to hold cell or switch panel.. Could be the first Exocet with an ash tray? |
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