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Post by zeitgeist on Nov 24, 2015 5:44:46 GMT
SoS is Secretary of State or DMV Department of Motor Vehicles in other states. It is BMV in OH. I agree on the tax issue but MI can be messed up. AT least the inspection process is fairly straight forward.
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Post by jon on Nov 24, 2015 17:05:18 GMT
Yes, you should only pay tax on the parts you didn't pay sales tax to begin with... the language is clear on that.
However, for some reason, they didn't like that and wanted me to pay "sales" tax on the hypothetical value of the car. I argued, we will see the outcome.
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montgom
Full
Love Exocet
Posts: 274
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Post by montgom on Nov 24, 2015 21:48:04 GMT
Yes, you should only pay tax on the parts you didn't pay sales tax to begin with... the language is clear on that. However, for some reason, they didn't like that and wanted me to pay "sales" tax on the hypothetical value of the car. I argued, we will see the outcome. They are badly mistaken. IMO I wonder what training they have to determine the value of the car? Robert |
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Post by jon on Nov 30, 2015 21:33:24 GMT
State called me today. Sounds like I am not going to have trouble with the tax issue. I am happy about that.
They want me to come in there Wednesday morning for them to assign a VIN sticker... it is going to be a COLD ride in rush hour to get there! Its below freezing in the morning now.
I am hoping this guy doesn't nit pick any thing about the car either.
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Post by einy on Dec 1, 2015 12:09:37 GMT
Dude - I'd take a cold ride ANY day to get my (Ohio) VIN sticker! Well done, I'm envious!
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Post by jon on Dec 4, 2015 16:12:02 GMT
Got my vin assigned! It was easy, the guy at the DMV just looked at the engine (didn't even check it's VIN), then put the new Michigan VIN on my frame with a sticker. No hassle about taxes, windshield , wipers or anything. Also, I got my horn wired. Printed a cap for the steering wheel, made a wiper arm to contact the conductive back plate of the steering wheel hub, and used a relay to control the horn. The horn draws enough current you don't want it conducting through the wheel/switch... Use a relay. The switch completes ground to the relay coil. The relay connects 12v+ to the horn. I used a separate relay and horn from the stock one.   |
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Post by zeitgeist on Dec 4, 2015 19:16:35 GMT
Congrats Jon. That is a relief to get that finished. Where did they place the VIN sticker? Is it the metal foil type sticker? Curious what has changed over the years.
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Post by papabear on Dec 4, 2015 19:42:43 GMT
Congratulations of passing inspection.
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Post by jon on Dec 5, 2015 2:50:01 GMT
Congrats Jon. That is a relief to get that finished. Where did they place the VIN sticker? Is it the metal foil type sticker? Curious what has changed over the years. Yep, metal foil sticker right on the dash tube near the gauge cluster. |
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Post by jon on Dec 5, 2015 2:55:21 GMT
today had its ups and downs. After getting my vin, I went to the auto parts store nearby to get some things. This happened when I backed out of my parking space:  The lower ball joint pulled right out of the cup. I had noticed on the ride over there that the steering had gotten stiffer... so lucky this happened in the parking lot. I had replaced this ball joint only a few years ago as the original wore out on my Miata. I replaced the other side just recently for good measure. I figured this one had a lot more life left in it. I didn't drive my Miata much. Ironic for it to fail at the auto parts store. They ordered me a replacement and it came within an hour from another store! I ran home and got my tools and swapped it in the parking lot. The steering effort is MUCH improved. Thus, I conclude it was bad the whole time I've been driving my Exocet for the last month. Exocet is back in one piece. Very fortunate. |
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Post by zeitgeist on Dec 5, 2015 10:34:54 GMT
Glad you and the car are OK and you got it fixed. These things luckily seem to fail more often at low speeds. It seems the extra torque/load from the friction pushes them past the fail point. I had a tie rod end fail on a 87 Cougar just as I pulled into work years ago. I also fixed it in the lot but no sign of failure before. Good thing you didn't have the fenders mounted.
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Post by jon on Dec 5, 2015 15:11:53 GMT
In this case I cranked the wheel hard in reverse. That was the load that pulled it out.
I looked up my records, I changed that joint in 09, but it still probably has less than 5000 miles on it.
Now I don't trust the ball joints I have on there at all, including the new tie rods. I think I am going to drop $400 and replace them all with oem.
Sucks, but it is the sensible thing to do after an event like this.
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Post by dietcoke on Dec 6, 2015 3:43:10 GMT
Overtorquing the joints can cause this too. Not saying you did, but its very easy to do.
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Post by jon on Dec 6, 2015 5:25:32 GMT
Overtorquing the joints can cause this too. Not saying you did, but its very easy to do. How is that? I just went and took a look to confirm how I understand the ball joint. I don't see how you could over tighten the joint to cause this failure. When you tighten the castle nut, you tighten against the taper of the ball joint into the knuckle. Tightening it more should only put more stress on the taper. It has no effect on the preload of the ball in the joint itself. Am I missing something? In any case, I don't believe I over torqued any of the joints. As an interesting side note, the way the ball joints in this car, and I assume most others, the weight of the car is actually trying to pull the ball out of the joint... interesting that it is not designed the other way around. |
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Post by dietcoke on Dec 9, 2015 23:21:41 GMT
Doesn't apply to a factory joint - just replacements that have threaded caps. If you overtighten the cap, the ball cant rotate as it should, and you get binding and excessive steering effort. Wasn't referring to the castle nut. Overtorquing the joints can cause this too. Not saying you did, but its very easy to do. How is that? I just went and took a look to confirm how I understand the ball joint. I don't see how you could over tighten the joint to cause this failure. When you tighten the castle nut, you tighten against the taper of the ball joint into the knuckle. Tightening it more should only put more stress on the taper. It has no effect on the preload of the ball in the joint itself. Am I missing something? In any case, I don't believe I over torqued any of the joints. As an interesting side note, the way the ball joints in this car, and I assume most others, the weight of the car is actually trying to pull the ball out of the joint... interesting that it is not designed the other way around. |
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