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Post by mawdo81 on Apr 20, 2016 17:48:15 GMT
I have 2 but want 8. Weirdly the new cbs ones are cheaper, as well as being smaller and lighter than the second hand oem ones on fleabay. Time for a Cbs order.
On other fronts the fuel filler is progressing using the donor setup, dog bowl and kitchen cabinet magnetic push to open latch. Pics will follow once fetteling is done.
In other news no work on the kit tonight as had to relinquish the garage for an emergency repair to Buzz Lightyear's arm. It's currently superglued and strapped on the work bench with copious masking tape to set...fingers crossed as I have a VERY concerned 3 year old right now!
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Post by mawdo81 on Apr 21, 2016 19:51:07 GMT
Good news; Buzz is doing well with full range of movement. Don't know how strong or how long it will last but Dans a bit poorly (nothing serious just a cold) atm so should cheer him up in the morning.
Bad news; Stuart packaged the Sonic tightly. There is very little space in the top of the side panel forward of the bulkhead for the filler. I'm going to have to try and find a slimline filler or failing that, what are people's thoughts on filling through the bonnet itself? Thinking of flap, hinge, catch and surround connected to the bonnet but the cap and filler itself in the void...
Alternatively how have others sorted front filling please?
Thanks
James
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Post by davef on Apr 22, 2016 16:33:27 GMT
Hi James, I have fuel tank up front and although it is a little tight to get the fuel filler/ hose in place alongside the fuel tank it does fit without resorting to difficult flaps or through the bonnet designs
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Post by mawdo81 on Apr 22, 2016 16:35:34 GMT
Thanks any chance of a pic please?
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Post by daydreamer on Apr 22, 2016 19:20:31 GMT
I also have a Sonic with the fuel tank up front, Note: the fuel filler hose does not touch or rub any chassis member or other pipework. There is about 8mm clearance all round. The flexible filler hose is kept in an s-shape to work through the gaps by being under very light compression and held at each end. The coolant hose is diverted around the filler hose by a bent alu pipe.
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Post by mawdo81 on Apr 24, 2016 18:45:07 GMT
Having had another look at caps I think I might go that route. An oem style hidden flap is just too tight a package and won't actually add to the car on balance. Thanks guys
On another note my rear panel came pre cut for rear fog and reverse lights. Whilst I'm happy with the ones that would fit I'm concerned about placement but I haven't got her on her wheels to check. By my calculations I think they're 50mm to low so could anyone please help by measuring the ground to the rear lower crease in the rear panel please? I'll also need to know what wheels and tyres you're running. Thanks in advance.
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Post by mawdo81 on May 7, 2016 16:51:47 GMT
Anyone fitted mx5 runners in a Sonic?
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Post by mawdo81 on May 8, 2016 9:04:32 GMT
my chassis rails are too close together for the original bolt holes in the runners so need to either: create a frame weld on some tags bolt through the runner in a new position
the last is is my favourite but depends on clearance as I don't want to prevent the runner from running.
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Post by mawdo81 on May 31, 2016 11:52:19 GMT
So good news:
MX5 Runners will fit, chop off the ends and drill new holes but they fit without restricting the seat run. Full write up to come in the tech section.
Rear body work fitted and fettled.
Nose, dash and bonnet fitted.
To Do: Fit/Adjust bonnet/boot latches
Bad News: Having concentrated on the front and rear, I made the assumption that, as it was on, the sides would just be the sides and I only had to worry about the shut lines etc.
However the overhang at the bottom is not enough to cover the chassis rail. The problem seems to be that the body needs to twist, in a way it doesn't want to! Any ideas please?
I'll try to grab pics tonight.
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Post by mawdo81 on Jun 4, 2016 19:05:30 GMT
Better later than never: It's almost as if the bottom needs to come together, and the issue is worse at the front than the rear, but the front grill and rear panel are both nicely fitted?!? Any suggestions please? This is quite a PITA now but I've been helping lift the moral and motivation by painting my Joker pedal and trimming my grill mesh...
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Post by mawdo81 on Jun 8, 2016 17:31:52 GMT
nate78 had the (potentially stonking) idea that perhaps the previous owner was over zealous with trimming the pannels, although that wouldn't explain the existing bolt holes. nigel, martinw, andybaird, daydreamer, equilibrium any other Sonic owner, please can I ask one of you to let me know the size of the lips on the underside of the side panels? Alternatively does anyone have any ideas please? Thanks
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Post by daydreamer on Jun 8, 2016 22:55:02 GMT
pm me your phone number and I can talk you through the fitting. It looks like you need to settle it in a bit more. Will need a few more pics to confirm.
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Post by mawdo81 on Jun 13, 2016 18:32:44 GMT
First off MASSIVE thanks to daydreamer for talking me through the side pod issue. All in position now ready for marking and drilling. Seems like it's taken forever. I was planning on doing that on Sunday but realised I'd run out of masking tape...so instead moved on to measuring up for the seats. I'm using mx5 seats and runners and the base of the seat is lower than the runners by about 9mm (need to measure more accurately before I finalise this plan). I was planning on using crush tubes dropped in from the top, followed by a washer, however that would leave me needing as standoff washer/spacer, so my question is: Is there any reason not to use a crush to take up the full height from the bottom of the chassis rail to the height I need? Thanks
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Post by daydreamer on Jun 15, 2016 6:48:40 GMT
Re crush tube.
(Assuming crush tube dropped in from the top.) If you do that then all the forces are being taken on just one wall of the chassis box section.
Pulling up forces would be spread over the area of any spreader washer or plate, however, any down forces would be spread over the area of the end of the crush tube. That will be much smaller. assuming a 70KG "Standard person" , perhaps that was standard in 1950, how long before that 70 kg weight bouncing along in the seat for mile after mile eventually hammers the crush tube through the box section wall ?
If you want to raise the rails then consider a block of material between the chassis member and the rail rather than just the rail on a crush tube stalk, that would be far more stable in my opinion. Normally the rail sits on the chassis member and acts as a big spreader plate.
If you raise the seat rail be aware that you'll quickly run out of leg room between the seat and steering wheel , especially if you are using the donor steering wheel which is large.
Anyway , I'm not an engineer so perhaps there are better informed opinions.
RE your body panels, glad they are fitted, it's just one of those things that once you have done it and know how, it's easy.
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Post by mawdo81 on Jun 15, 2016 6:56:47 GMT
Thanks for the tip, I hadn't considered that perspective so crush tube to fit it is. That also gives me easier future adjustment...
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