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Post by Johnsto on Oct 10, 2015 10:40:05 GMT
Focus clocks used and a custom housing, thanks to Nigel, I havent had to cut into the chassis as per a few other builds, clocks sit nicely on top of the cross member with some padding underneath to stop any vibration.
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Post by Johnsto on Oct 10, 2015 10:46:34 GMT
Photo of the coolant hoses and a mis mash of wiring, which will be tidied up shortly. Original exhaust and cover fitted, just need a custom back box and hanging solution. If you look down the bottom of the gearbox you will see the reverse switch connection sticking out, anyone have the plug for the wiring loom kicking about or the part number, before i make a trip to the scrap yard.
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Post by Johnsto on Oct 10, 2015 10:59:52 GMT
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Post by nigel on Oct 11, 2015 8:44:03 GMT
... Also the front wings are in the incorrect position and will need to be moved to accommodate full lock. I remember having this problem also, however need to be careful of the IVA requirements re wheel rim coverage. Not sure what rack you have installed, Quick or STD but something to consider is to put 'engine tappet springs' in the rack which not only has the effect of restricting full lock but also aids the start of self centring, old 7 trick used by many. For further details you might wish to checkout my PDF in the tech section. ( link) nigel
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Post by Johnsto on Oct 11, 2015 9:15:27 GMT
Thanks Nigel. I have a standard rack installed, I think I will buy a cheap one of eBay and have a go at this trick. At least if I get it wrong I have a back up then.
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Post by daydreamer on Oct 11, 2015 9:36:42 GMT
Hi John,
RE Front Fogs when using Focus light switch, Yes, I believe you do need to fit front fogs when using the focus light switch. It comes down to the valid combination of front and rear light illumination. Without the front fogs fitted the Focus switch can be set to show rear fog with front fogs on and no dipped or main beam. If the front fogs are fitted that is fine and valid. If they are not fitted then the rear fogs are on when there is no main forward illumination and that is invalid.
I had a couple of thoughts when looking at your latest engine bay picture. The expansion tank looks as if it is partially over the air intake filter. That may be a trick of the camera angle. I'd suggest consideration of expansion overflow and where the coolant will go in that scenario. Try to avoid it soaking the air filter and being sucked into the inlet manifold. My experience of coolant expansion is that the focus expansion vessel is only just big enough, I think this is because of the larger volume of coolant in a Sonic when compared to a standard Focus, longer pipes and in my case a bigger rad. Mine regularly overflows after a service top up.
The flexible air ducting from the filter to the inlet manifold looks like it might be easily punctured and allow unfiltered air into the engine. I suggest careful examination of any points where it may contact other items in the engine bay or rub against anything, engine vibration and engine movement under load will quickly cause parts in lose contact with other to wear through. Bear in mind that there can be a significant vacuum in the inlet manifold when the engine is breathing hard. This will pull the air filter noticeably and from the appearance of your flexible hose it may not resist that pull. I see it is wire supported and that may prevent collapse across the width but perhaps not along the length of the hose. This is a long way of suggesting that the hose might change shape, or length and consequently route between fixed points and that might then cause the hose to come into contact with other parts.
Looking at the hose routing for main radiator feed. Where this comes out of the plastic thermostat housing on the end of the engine over the gearbox, I suggest fitting a 90 degree bend. I see you have a straight hose bent to shape but I worry that this is going to stress the plastic thermostat housing over time and cause failure in the plastic. Bear in mind that the engine will likely move about 2 cm fore and aft from the normal resting position when using standard engine mounts.
Looking at the little hose under the main radiator feed mentioned above. This comes straight out of the thermostat housing and joins a T piece on the bulkhead. From the picture it looks to me like it will get crushed when the engine rocks under load. The hose has nowhere to go and I think the plastic thermostat housing will come off worse.
I see that you are using the Focus clocks, I have done that it and works well. If I was to do it again I'd fit additional internal indicator tell-tales. The ones in the focus cluster work but are nigh on impossible to see in normal daylight and there is no chance of hearing the little clicker when driving. I see you have two ready made holes in the dash for those...
It's great to see another sonic nearing completion.
Good luck, Daydreamer
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Post by nigel on Oct 11, 2015 10:00:44 GMT
... and there is no chance of hearing the little clicker when driving. Agreed, but a simple fix is to add a 'trailer audible buzzer warning for indicators' in the system ( link) nigel
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Post by martinw on Oct 11, 2015 10:25:51 GMT
Also the front wings are in the incorrect position and will need to be moved to accomadate full lock. Hi John I think you're referring to the winglets stopping you getting to full lock? Just the same on mine - and even now they are very tight on the extremes. First fitting for mine was with them at a shallow angle - I had to move them to more like a 45 degree angle to get some clearance. I also found that the studs for bolting one of them on (...on the driver's side from memory) weren't at an ideal angle. Looks like yours might be the same....it looks a little "droopy" . I put some angled spacers inside the bodywork to get it to sit better. That also helps with clearance too. Looking great - can't be far off IVA Martin
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Post by nigel on Oct 11, 2015 12:40:23 GMT
Woops , is it a wheel arch 'Wing' hitting the bodywork clearance problem or as martinw has noted a 'Winglet' tyre hitting the, clearance problem? nigel
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Post by Johnsto on Oct 11, 2015 14:03:24 GMT
Thanks for all the feedback guys, nice to have voices filled with experience. I'll probably re-look at the coolant hoses once im IVA'd but for now it will surfice, although I will trim the smaller pipe going to the thermostat to give it some "play" room. It just so happens it's both the cycle wings and winglets, I must add these were fitted when I purchaed the kit There is some angle iron stuck on the inside but not very well. I shall be taking them off and filling up the holes and starting over again, as MartinW states, i'll increase the angle of the winglet to help with wheel clearance (built in air brakes ).
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Post by mawdo81 on Apr 21, 2016 19:30:23 GMT
Hi, what fuel filler parts did you use please and do you have any pics of it under the bonnet? Ta. James
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Post by Johnsto on Jul 25, 2017 18:44:35 GMT
Im back on it 😀 albeit stuck with the electrics. Will post in tech sect.
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Post by Johnsto on Jul 25, 2017 19:04:46 GMT
Got everything wired up as per Ford TIS but no joy. I have the stock ecu, IB5 box and 1.8 flywheel and clutch. I crank her over and rpm comes up for a second or two then disappears. Checked crank position sensor for output and resistance, seems ok, I have another CKP and have tried that, same fault. Checked wiring back to ECU, also good. I also have the stock clock and the Pats is showing "start enabled". I'm stumped 🙁
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Post by daydreamer on Jul 25, 2017 19:46:52 GMT
Hi Johnsto,
Too many questions to put in a post, I'll pm you my phone no and if you like call me and I'll talk you through what I know, maybe it helps , maybe it doesn't.
Daydreamer.
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Post by Johnsto on Jul 28, 2017 18:34:57 GMT
Thanks for your help Guy. An hour on the phone was much appreciated. The saga continues will be checking the loom over in the next few days.
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